jeep sways and rolls..
Thread Starter
JK Freak
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 801
Likes: 0
From: Gp
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 365
Likes: 1
From: Steilacoom, WA
I had exact same bump tq steal when I put my artic truss on. I had the front control arm one hole to high and the bolt that was holding in my steering stabilizer was binding up the track bar. I ordered a drag link flip before trouble shooting properly. Took me 30 minutes and drove like new. Jeep. Hell I don't even run my fox ATS stabilizer anymore it drives so great. It's an optical illusion if your drag link and track bar are parralle. Tie a string to the end of each and run them to the top bolt. I would recommend not installing a flip kit unless no other options. You will have to add more bump stop and depending on up travel may have to c notch or add more bump stop up top. Both of these are going to effect your articulation abilities unless already limited from shocks. I would not recommend more control arms unless your caster is way out of spec. That's just throwing more money away. I would recommend you make a trouble shooting list and start with the easiest things first. Climb underneath the jeep and have someone move the steering wheel. Listen for odd noises from arms, stearing box and so on. Pull quick alignment specs your self. Real easy. See way of life write up. Check to see if the pitman arm nut is lose, check air pressure. Get shouldered bolts. Listen all the arms bolts and jump on bumpers and back up and forward a few times and re your wye to specs. If top of front control arm is hollowed out look at bracing. Anyway, I would recommend doing some research, make a list, then check them off. It's typically something simple. My money is on parallel drag link and track bar. Throwing money at the problem with more parts will only complicate the situation, take away from your mod fund, cost you time/money and cause frustration. Furthermore. You will learn a lot about a Jeep geometry along the way. You have a capable lift with what you have so I would recommend trying to figure out the problem first. Keep it simple and start with most obvious and easiest possibilities first. Rule number 1 of troubleshooting is check easiest and most obvious first. Several years ago I spent a month tracking an electrical problem and swear I checked all the fuses first but in the end it was a blown fuse. All was not lost. I cleaned up a lot of sloppy wiring from years of mods and learned a lot. Stay positive. You will figure it out. These lifts are putt on 1000s of the same jeeps every year and if each one had that many problems they wouldn't sell any. Often people give up and go back to stock. That's because they don't take the time to educate them selfs on what constitutes a good handling jeep. Tall tires and lift is not it. Low center of gravity and smaller tires (33) and 2.5 lift is a great set up. Down travel isn't limited, body roll is not effected and it handles great. Yeah 35s look cool but I have seen more jeeps with 33s survive the trail. There is a great sticky on one of the forums that go into more detail. Often tire size and lift height is ignorant dick swinging. Helps to take a break read up make list and have a plan. I will figure it out. Have a good Xmas. Back 2 the Xmas story I go.
Thread Starter
JK Freak
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 801
Likes: 0
From: Gp
I had exact same bump tq steal when I put my artic truss on. I had the front control arm one hole to high and the bolt that was holding in my steering stabilizer was binding up the track bar. I ordered a drag link flip before trouble shooting properly. Took me 30 minutes and drove like new. Jeep. Hell I don't even run my fox ATS stabilizer anymore it drives so great. It's an optical illusion if your drag link and track bar are parralle. Tie a string to the end of each and run them to the top bolt. I would recommend not installing a flip kit unless no other options. You will have to add more bump stop and depending on up travel may have to c notch or add more bump stop up top. Both of these are going to effect your articulation abilities unless already limited from shocks. I would not recommend more control arms unless your caster is way out of spec. That's just throwing more money away. I would recommend you make a trouble shooting list and start with the easiest things first. Climb underneath the jeep and have someone move the steering wheel. Listen for odd noises from arms, stearing box and so on. Pull quick alignment specs your self. Real easy. See way of life write up. Check to see if the pitman arm nut is lose, check air pressure. Get shouldered bolts. Listen all the arms bolts and jump on bumpers and back up and forward a few times and re your wye to specs. If top of front control arm is hollowed out look at bracing. Anyway, I would recommend doing some research, make a list, then check them off. It's typically something simple. My money is on parallel drag link and track bar. Throwing money at the problem with more parts will only complicate the situation, take away from your mod fund, cost you time/money and cause frustration. Furthermore. You will learn a lot about a Jeep geometry along the way. You have a capable lift with what you have so I would recommend trying to figure out the problem first. Keep it simple and start with most obvious and easiest possibilities first. Rule number 1 of troubleshooting is check easiest and most obvious first. Several years ago I spent a month tracking an electrical problem and swear I checked all the fuses first but in the end it was a blown fuse. All was not lost. I cleaned up a lot of sloppy wiring from years of mods and learned a lot. Stay positive. You will figure it out. These lifts are putt on 1000s of the same jeeps every year and if each one had that many problems they wouldn't sell any. Often people give up and go back to stock. That's because they don't take the time to educate them selfs on what constitutes a good handling jeep. Tall tires and lift is not it. Low center of gravity and smaller tires (33) and 2.5 lift is a great set up. Down travel isn't limited, body roll is not effected and it handles great. Yeah 35s look cool but I have seen more jeeps with 33s survive the trail. There is a great sticky on one of the forums that go into more detail. Often tire size and lift height is ignorant dick swinging. Helps to take a break read up make list and have a plan. I will figure it out. Have a good Xmas. Back 2 the Xmas story I go.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 365
Likes: 1
From: Steilacoom, WA
Can't go wrong with synergy. You can run that it stock or flipped and easy to adjust. Eric hooked me up at river city of sale is still on. Sounds like you are on the right path. Enjoy and let us know what u figure out. Doug
JK Newbie
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
From: Benton, AR
Im buying the synergy d link flip. Iv been through my front end. Along with the alignment that was done. Last issue is the flip kit whixh iv been procastionating with. So imma try that. Its a win win with it anyway. Thank you for all the help. I have adj arms and if it doesnt fix it. Im going to try geomtry correction brackets till i decide what long arms i want. And merry xmas to you too sir!