I'm sort of in the same boat as the original poster. I already did a "stage 1" build with 3 inch lift and 36" tires. Now I want to go a little more extreme. Heres what I was thinking.

Mopar dana 60 :2500
mopar dana 44 front: 1500
gears for both axles installed 1200
they come with lockers

have wheels from stage 1 build :0
teraflex long arm (arm only) upgrade: 1600
ORE coilovers front and rear evolever with bumpstops: 5500-6500
river raider fender flairs narrow version: 1000
40" bfg km2 X 5:2500
rear bumper that can hold 40" tire: 1200
winch for my front bumper 800-1200

total:17k+ just for parts.
I know I can sell some of my old parts to recoup some cash like old axles , upper and lower adjustable control arms and tires.

Playing with the jeep gets expensive.

 

LOD bumpers are the way to go! The signature series are a great design, built sturdy, reasonably priced, no long delivery wait, and no squeaking. You can't go wrong with LOD do a search, they are on a lot of jk's.

 

Thanks. In addition to the 15 months for deployments, being a pilot we are also away quite a bit when we are back in the US. Comes with the territory.

I had mentioned a lift, about $3000 budgeted. Although, a stumbled across this airRock system now and I might have to budget $5500! Do these air suspension systems do as well or better then conventional coil long-arm kits?

I just took another look at LoD's web site, and I think I agree. Their front and rear bumpers look stellar. The Powerplant also sits nice and low as not to block too much air for the radiator. It is interesting that you mention that the 6" log-arm lift would have the best on-road manners. One would think being so high that it would be worse then stock. Is it better because almost all suspension components are replaced with a tall long-arm creating a better over-all system? Mentioning the airRock system again, I hear that they also have a really nice ride.

Do the stock Rubicon T-case and gas tank skids hold up to serious abuse? I was thinking about getting something beafier like the Rockhard's. As for beadlocks, I am sure they are expensive to repair like you have said. I have spun tires off of rims before and that also is no fun. I understand that with the Hutchinsons that if you damage the lip bad you have to replace the whole wheel half. From what I can see of the Poison Spyder wheels there is a very protective beadlock ring that would protect the lip. I am sure this ring must be a lot cheaper to replace then wheels/wheel halves. I don't do a lot of mudding, most off-road where I go is hard packed dirt and rocks.

The only reason I say 4.88's versus 5.13's is that I will have a Supercharger to help with the power and I don't want super high rev's at 70MPH on the highway. From looking at a JK RPM chart the 4.88's are close to stock RPM's with 37's and 5.13's are over-gearing. Obviously with the much heavier wheels/tires you want to overgear with a stock engine, do you think it is neccessary for an engine with a Supercharger?

 

As Far as skids, the stock transfercase is holding fine so far with Rubydoo. The stock gas tank is bent up pretty good but still working, needs more!!!!!! 5.13's rock and kick ass!!!!!!!!!!!

 

i understand where you are coming from with the 4.88s. but all that armor, bumpers, skids, suspension parts, and the fact that you want a hardcore trail rig point to the 5.13. when you go wheeling you wont regret it

 

Is this going to be a daily driver or a plaything?

I understand your thinking about the 4.88s and supercharged,But if you are not going to be driving the jeep to see the folks or many long road trips go with the 5.13 for more low end power.

Wheels I would go with the Poison Spiders or Walker Evans in 17"for bead lockers. You might consider some internal beadlocks also so that there are no legality problems from beadlocks.and more wheel choices.

Tires goodyear MT/Rs or the Toyo MT in 37 if you need mudders otherwise go with the Nitto terragrapplers or Toyo open country A/T.

Cant go wrong with the Terraflex products.great customer service.4" might be a little small for the 37" Tire definately go long arm for more flex and a better on road ride.

Anything else just ask we are all more than happy to give our input.

And welcome home.

 

Take a good look at some of the Bulldog Fab bumpers that're shown on here. Mitch has some excellent looking stuff out there. He can custom build whatever your heart desires and make you a bumper that'll hold your Warn PP nicely.

This is one area where I haven't looked very hard, but need to. If I end up with an X, then this'll be where a bunch of my $ goes early. I like the looks of the Rock Hard skids on the Northridge site, though.

Again, Mitch @ Bulldog Fab is reportedly working on some.



Not sure these are needed, but when you're spending $25k, what's an extra $300?

I'm not sure this has been made yet for the JK. I could be wrong, though.

BULLDOG FAB! Excellent pics of his rear/tire carrier around here, too.

As was mentioned above, I'd do Pro Comp wheels with some Staun internal beadlocks. Cheaper, legal, and get the job done.

From what I've read, anything 37" or above really screams for 5.13's. Better yet, put a D60 up front, too, and go with 5.38's!

No need to go long arm with the JK. Seems that the arms are plenty long compared to the TJ and previous Wranglers. Budget $4500 for the EVO coilover kit.



I'm waiting for the Avenger if I ever do a SC. If I get tired of waiting, then I might look for a HEMI.



See above. That D60 front is $$$, but if you want the gears you'll need if you go much larger than 38" or so, then you're gonna need it.

I haven't heard of broken front 44's, but I'm sure there are there somewhere. There have been some broken tubes, but I'm not sure if those were front or rear.

That question is easy... go Atlas!

 

Go 5.13s, Walker Evans makes really nice bead locks. I have a 4.5 R.E long arm kit and love it!!! I think it rides better than stock. BFG KM2 or Goodyear MT.

 

Okay, yeah don't trust the stock skid plates. I have Rock Hards and think they're great. Instead of a skid on the evap can, think about relocating it.

Sound deadener on that plastic wheel well? It's a Jeep.

You'll be getting steel cable on the winch, you may want to wait until you've used it a bit before replacing it.

Paint the top? Hell just take it off.

Rock sliders, I'm using Shrockworcks. They're frame mounted and I've balanced and pivoted on mine with nothing more than some gouging in the powder coating.

You may be a bit low end on the recovery gear, but you can use a bit of that $800 you've saved on the synth line/sound deadener/top paint.

I have the Rockhard bumper/jerry can/rear rack. Love the bumper and jerry can carriers. I hate the rack. That weight back there messes with the center of gravity and I don't like the way it drives off road.

The only snorkel setup I know for sure that works with a supercharger is the River Raider combined with the RIPP. The River Raider runs a bit more than $300.

Don't forget to add some control arm bracket skids to your front axle build.

It sounds like you're getting a Rubi. Your transfer case should be fine. Unless of course you want to upgrade it, then of course look at Atlas.

If you're planning on traveling a lot with it, you might want to think of some security like the Tuffy drawer.

Also an alternative to a massively high lift is to look at the Evolution Off Road fenders. They'll allow for much bigger tires on a smaller lift.

And welcome back. Thanks for all you've given!