I will be in the market for a 2012-2015 JKU (probably a Sport 3.21) in the spring, but am already researching wheel/tire mods. My lust for 35s is only cosmetic, and any wheeling I plan to do would require nothing more than 33s. So I am trying to do it as cheap as possible and keeping on road performance as good as possible as this will be my DD.

So I am targeting the BFG KO2 in the 35x12.5x15 (load range C), and maybe the level 8 tracker or procomp 7069 AL wheels. Here is what I was thinking.

1) Either the TF leveling kit or a 2" BB. This will not be a rock rig and most wheeling will be trail stuff.
2) 1" BL. The combination of this and the BB would keep driveline angles and caster close to stock while still clearing 35s for DD and probably even off road as well.
3) Smittybuilt cheap tire carrier. This wheel/tire combo will only be 15 lbs heavier than the rubicon stock tire. Should hold the extra 15lbs or so assuming the stock carrier won't. With only 15 lbs extra the hinges should be fine.

So in theory I would be on 35s with just suspension pucks (with shock extensions), BL spacers, and a tire carrier if needed. So what am I missing? Do I need 4.10s immediately? Something else I am missing?

 

35's with flat fenders and you don't got to mess with anything. Your stock tire carrier might survive a while especially if it's just a mall crawler but you could go with the Teraflex hinged carrier for the spare too. I wouldn't rely on the stock carrier even for just 15lbs more. 3.21 gonna suck too. I'd regear but not to 4.10s

 

I would like a little lift anyway. So maybe keep the BB, scrap the BL, and add in a 3.73 swap? I can get gears and gear labor cheap. I m just surprised 2" in front and 1" in rear will clear in any offroad situation.

 

Try to find a JKU with tow package and 3.73 gears stock. With the 3.21s you have to replace both carriers to regear. You may be "able" to get by with 3.73s and 35s for awhile. 3.73 to 4.1 is not much difference except for cost lol. I plan on running 4.56s with 35s with a build very similar to yours (Black Friday parts are in the mail).

 

I agree no body lift and look for 3.73 gearing. Those tires run small so you might just like them with that gearing. I would delete the rear tire altogether and carry a plug kit and on board air.

 

Here's my Jeep, 2013 JKU Sport. 2.5" Teraflex coil lift with shocks, running 315/70r17's Kelly Safari TSR's on Mickey Thompson Classic III's. I currently have 3.21 gearing, but am planning to change that at some point, probably to 4:10. I am not running a tire carrier yet, I will when I upgrade my rear bumpers to JCR Offroad. As of right now, that spare tire actually sits on the bumper perfectly. If you are just looking for aesthetics, I would probably go with the Teraflex budget boost. You might also want to consider a new trackbar to recenter your front axle as it will slightly shift to one side after the lift. I have the Monster Track bar from Teraflex as well.

 

I have a JKUS running 33" tires and 3.73s. 3.73s and 35s will suck. Go 4.56s. I carry an extensive tire kit and a spare, and am actually contemplating a second spare. I have seen tires that just can't be resurrected on the trail. Do not delete the spare, that is just plain stupid.

 

So a little conflicting info, but hey its a forum. Feedback is appreciated so far.

Suspension
To clear the 35s for DD and light/moderate off roading, will a 2" BB be sufficient? DO I need the 2" in the rear or will the 1" in the leveling kit clear? Looking at Vals rig (which is bad@ss and almost exactly what I want aesthetically) , there doesn't seem to be a lot of room between the flares and the tire. Would I need to also trim the flares? Will it not rub in light wheeling situations?

Gears
So I hear 3.73 may be good enough, and then 4.56 are needed. Full disclosure I am an engineer at Dana so I can get gears, and what you guys call "carriers", and labor pretty cheap so gear swaps aren't then end of the world for me. And I drove a JK with 35s and 4.10 a few times and power didn't seem to be an issue. And I don't want Yukon/Richmond junk.

Searching the forum I got really spooked on 35s due to joint angle concerns, loss of caster, big money bumpers/carriers, gear swaps, etc just to be able to run 35s on the street and light wheeling. It seems its maybe not as bad as I had feared based on the forum searches?

 

IF you are good about gears by all means swap them out. Most people resist gear swaps because of cost and they don't understand the benefits of proper gearing. Of course where you drive and how you drive are important on choosing gears. Running around at 6000' with some of the grades we have out here is different then running around in the flatlands of the midwest or the beaches of Florida. 4.10 or 4.56 should be good for 35's.

There are threads of people running 35's with no lift, you might want to look them up. You have do some things like added bump stop or flat fenders which really open up the wheel wells. Its all about what you want to do with it.

 

3.73s and 35s are ok for mild wheeling. Personally I'm moving to 4.88s or 5.13s when I can