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Modified JK Tech Tech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.

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JKUR Build Up

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Old 12-10-2014, 04:32 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Jeepin76

Check. I'll add that. Is a Tom Woods ok? I probably need a certain length, but I'll figure that out when the time comes.
I run a Tom Woods 1310 up front, not on 37s, but heavy 35s ( Mud Grapplers ) on a JKU with the RK 3.5 X Factor and haven't had any issues with it. You don't need the exhaust spacer with the lift and TW shaft. Everyone is different but if asked if I would buy again...absolutely.
Old 12-10-2014, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeepin76
I have a 2015, stock 6 speed manual. I have been researching upgrades for about 4 months so I can hopefully determine my plan of attack on my rig. It honestly makes me nauseous thinking about how much this is going b to cost, but I'm doing it anyway. Damn mod fever. Gets me every time!!!

Anyway, I'm probably going to head in this direction. Please let me know what extra mods I need to for or provide any suggestions / alternatives.

* 3.5" RK X-Factor Mid Arm
* Fox 2.0 shocks
* BushWacker Flat Fenders
* 17x9 wheels (Procomp 7005 or 7105)
* 37x12.50's

Will I need a front drive shaft (Tom woods?)? I read that I most likely won't need a rear. Hopefully that is true.

Do you think my axles will last a couple of years until I can upgrade them and do a 5.13 regear?

This is my daily driver with a 20 mile commute each way. I make a valiant attempt to hit the trails or just go explore once a month. My main reason for the 37's is to get my clearance angle close to what my TJ Rubi had with a 2" lift and 33's when going over sharp hill crests. I bottomed out the other day in the JK on a hill the TJ would drive right over. I was not happy.

Thanks,
Matt
37's are pretty standard equipment on JK's so its definitely not a bad route to go on a DD. You will want to gusset the c's on the front axle at least with anything over a 35" tire (isn't a bad idea with a 35 either). If you're going with the flat fenders and 37's right off the bat you can run them no issue on a 2.5" x-factor kit as well. Totally personal preference though, if you're worried about break over angle then the 3.5" is the exact same kit with different coils.

RK
Old 12-10-2014, 04:27 PM
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I too have a Rubi with 6spd M, and, I did not like the stock Rubi 4.10's with 35's, cannot imagine going to 37's without gearing at the same time.
Guess it depends on what you wheel... I went with 5.13's for 35's, it is geared just a little steeper than my XJ was and I'm real happy with it so far.
My build is armor and steering come as first priority, lift there-after, in order to gain some clearance I stuck a budget boost under it until "true" lift funds are available.
Good luck.
Old 12-10-2014, 04:35 PM
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I run the RK 3.5 X Factor w/ the RRD Resi's and 37" trail grapplers. I have factory trimmed fenders and run custom 1350 drive shafts front and rear. I have a JKUR so running the same D44 as you but I'm running the Aretec C gussets and axle truss's front and rear. I'm also running a set of prosteer ball joints. This is my 2nd JK and I absolutely love this setup. Can't go wrong with a set of 37's and a RK lift
Old 12-10-2014, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Rock Krawler Suspension
37's are pretty standard equipment on JK's so its definitely not a bad route to go on a DD. You will want to gusset the c's on the front axle at least with anything over a 35" tire (isn't a bad idea with a 35 either). If you're going with the flat fenders and 37's right off the bat you can run them no issue on a 2.5" x-factor kit as well. Totally personal preference though, if you're worried about break over angle then the 3.5" is the exact same kit with different coils.

RK
I think I'm sticking to my desire to run 37's. I do like the idea of running 35's, I just figure that I might as well go with 37's after installing the 3.5" lift and the flat fenders. I thought they looked great on my TJ Rubi. Since the RK X-Factor does require some welding, I'll plan to have the gusset's also welded onto the front axle at that time.
Old 12-10-2014, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by BrowniesJK
I run the RK 3.5 X Factor w/ the RRD Resi's and 37" trail grapplers. I have factory trimmed fenders and run custom 1350 drive shafts front and rear. I have a JKUR so running the same D44 as you but I'm running the Aretec C gussets and axle truss's front and rear. I'm also running a set of prosteer ball joints. This is my 2nd JK and I absolutely love this setup. Can't go wrong with a set of 37's and a RK lift
What's the difference between the 1310 and 1350 drive shafts besides the $200 price difference (Quadratech). I'm guessing they're built to tolerate different stress levels?

10-4 on the ball joints and gussets. Did you upgrade your axle shafts and re-gear as well?
Old 12-10-2014, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike H.
I too have a Rubi with 6spd M, and, I did not like the stock Rubi 4.10's with 35's, cannot imagine going to 37's without gearing at the same time.
Guess it depends on what you wheel... I went with 5.13's for 35's, it is geared just a little steeper than my XJ was and I'm real happy with it so far.
My build is armor and steering come as first priority, lift there-after, in order to gain some clearance I stuck a budget boost under it until "true" lift funds are available.
Good luck.
Looks like I'll definitely have to regear. I think I'll have to live with the 4.10's for now until I can save up for the stronger axle shafts and regear.
Old 12-10-2014, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeepin76
What's the difference between the 1310 and 1350 drive shafts besides the $200 price difference (Quadratech). I'm guessing they're built to tolerate different stress levels?

10-4 on the ball joints and gussets. Did you upgrade your axle shafts and re-gear as well?
more of a "heavy duty" drive shaft with the 1350. Adams DS 1350 is 150 more. I'd assume up to 37" tire the 1310 should be just fine and that's what I have on order from Adam's. They recommend if you are running 40" or taller to use the 1350. hope that helps.
Old 12-10-2014, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeepin76
Looks like I'll definitely have to regear. I think I'll have to live with the 4.10's for now
Gearing is very subjective. Drive it and see what 'you' think of the performance, rather than basing it off of a few posts from people who could have very different driving styles, or different usage, or different location/elevation, or may be giving their opinion based on an older 3.8 and not a newer 3.6...

Plenty of other threads to read through for opinions.
Old 12-10-2014, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by nthinuf
Gearing is very subjective. Drive it and see what 'you' think of the performance, rather than basing it off of a few posts from people who could have very different driving styles, or different usage, or different location/elevation, or may be giving their opinion based on an older 3.8 and not a newer 3.6... Plenty of other threads to read through for opinions.
X2!

I run 37&rsquo;s and 4.10&rsquo;s and I'm fine with it. Much better than 3.73 w/35&rsquo;s in the old 3.8 in my opinion.
With the 4.1:1 tcase - crawl ratio isn't bad either.

Granted - my 37&rsquo;s (km2) are smaller than the average 37


Just do it and see how you like it.


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