Was having an issue with DS/yoke getting up under my gas skid at full flex after moving to a PR60 rear. Even after notching the aftermarket skid for clearance, it was still very very tight with the factory skid that is a lot more rounded there in that rear interior corner.

 

So I’ve finally had a chance to dig into this a bit more. Measuring from the frame to the ground just in front of the body mount behind the front wheels, passenger height is 17” and driver height is 18”. Taking off the driver side shock and shaking the Jeep did nothing, taking off the passenger side shock and shaking the Jeep did nothing. This rules out a shock issue.

Next was to check springs and isolators. The passenger isolator had about an 1/8” more of an indent in it than the driver side but I doubt that has anything to do with it.




Otherwise, the isolators look fine.

Next up was the springs, they’re both the same height and same part number so there’s no concern about having a left spring on the right and right on the left.




With the springs out, it was the perfect opportunity to install my dv8 hydro bump stops.



I previously had the teraflex speed bumps, I wasn’t a fan. They worked okay but they would rattle any time I hit a bump and that got super annoying. They can be tightened down but they wouldn’t stay tight (or I just sucked at installing them).

I swapped the driver and passenger springs and isolators then gave the front end a good pressure washing while it was up in the air and wheels off.



Time to reinstall the shocks and wheels and see if swapping the springs did anything. I’m not getting my hopes up though. If the right side is still holding a gangster lean then I’ll dig into the rear suspension.

 

And the search continues, everything is back together and still a 1” lean to the right... even after swapping springs from side to side. I didn’t think swapping the springs was gonna do it since there’s too many threads that say the same. I didn’t loosen any control arms or track bars because when I push the Jeep side to side, I don’t feel any more or less resistance one way vs the other and there’s no visible bind in any of the joints.

The wheels are centered in their wheel wells so it’s not like one spring sits at an angle. I’m about out of time today but later in the week if I have time I’ll look at the rear end and see if anything stands out. I need to install a chromo rear driver axle shaft anyways once I get the studs pressed in. Btw, don’t try and use a harbor freight arbor press for this, I bent their crappy arm and elongated the hole that the arm goes into when trying to press the studs in the flange.

 

Can you locate 4 scales, to put one under each tire? Maybe you are heavy on the passenger's side.
I did this years ago when the lean and weight distribution were topics of threads.

Here are the results:

Stock 2008 JK Rubicon Unlimited w/automatic transmission, gas tank half full, no occupants inside:

Scales have current calibration, accuracy within 10 lbs.

Left front tire 1200 lbs.
Right front tire 1200 lbs.
Left rear tire 1100 lbs.
Right rear tire 1100 lbs.

Front axle total 2400 lbs.
Rear axle total 2200 lbs.

Total weight 4600 lbs.

Weight distribution:

52% front
48% rear

 

The best I’d be able to do is maybe finding a trucker scale and parking one side on it at a time. But I can’t imaging my weight distro being that much different than yours. My Jeep leans with an almost empty tank the same as it does with a full tank. I also don’t carry a spare with me unless I’m on the trails and even at that, my spare is strapped down inside the Jeep. I carry literally nothing with me when I drive around town.

Your weight left and right is nicely balanced but even if I was 100 lbs heavy on the right for gas, the springs won’t sag that much. Just to test it, I’ll put 180 lbs in the driver seat tomorrow and just for kicks, I’ll throw another 100 pounds in the left rear passenger seat too. I think I’ll still sag to the right.

On another note, my hydro bumps sit about an inch lower than my teraflex bumps so I need to remove a puck from my axle bump stack. I previously said in another thread that I don’t use a washer on top of my hockey pucks, I’m going to start now. The new bump stops have a softer pad on them and I don’t want there to be too much friction laterally between the bump stop pads on the axle and the pad on the bottom of the hydro bump stop.

 

Sv.. do you know a RACER.. virtually all Racers have scales to weight their cars.. 4 scales electronic digital can do multiple measures.. Check with a local race track for possible connections.

 

Unfortunately no. I used to know guys that worked as mechanics at the airport when I was bending wrenches there, we used large scaled for weight and balance of aircraft. But they’ve moved on as well so my sources for scales are gone. I’ll probably find a local truck scale and see if I can weigh a few times to get front and rear as well as left and right, if nothing looks weird in the back end.

 

I have been out of town and may have time to dig into this a little more today. My gut tells me that the lean is somehow track bar related, not 100% sure though. I wonder if I remove a bolt from the frame side of both track bars while the Jeep is sitting on its own weight, do I need to worry about the body completely sliding to one side and causing damage?

 

Nah, the body isn't going to have this huge shift once the bolt comes out.

 

Thanks Russ!

Theres another decent thread on jko with the same problem and I think they’re on track with the right steps to fix this. A rep from rock crawler chimed in:



link to thread:
https://www.jkowners.com/threads/hug...rk-lift.80753/

Again, I really don’t believe the tank and battery on the right side is causing the lean. Something with the geometry is causing this, maybe the springs tilted with a specific pinion angle or an axle shifted a little causing more load on one spring? Eventually I’ll throw an hour here and there at the issue and will find the cause. Haha... unfortunately I just don’t have a full day at any point to do this.