I am not certain where to post this question so I am trying here. Here goes:

I am going to order a 08 Wrangler 2dr Rubicon to place on a trailer to tow behind my motor home.
I need to keep my overall length to a minimum so as to fit in the pull through spaces at RV parks. A too long of a trailer will force me to disconnect the trailer each night and park the trailer in another place. That would be really a pain in the behind.
What is the minimum trailer length that I can use and still be able to position the Rubicon on the trailer and not end up having a 3000 lbs tongue weight (I know that is an exaggeration, but you can get my point)?
Will a weight distribution hitch (such as a EZ-lift hitch) allow more leeway in where I place my jeep on the trailer and still not exceed the maximum tongue weight?

 

why not flat tow the Jeep, get a demco tow bar and base plate. Much easier. Besides the Jeep will free wheel no problem behind MH. Also what type of MH ?? Most class A and C MH should have a frame mounted hitch rated to at least 5000/10,0000. Check the sticker on the hitch. Remeber tongue weight is approx 10 % of total weight. I would definatly flat tow the Jk.

 

Sorry, I can't answer that question but, If you aren't planning on getting crazy and breaking an axle what about towing 4 wheels down? Then you can unhook b4 you get into the tight camping spots?

 

I flat tow my JK 4 wheels down behind my Class C RV and it works very well. Takes 2 minutes to connect or disconnect and do not have to hassel with a trailer.

 

Here's a question that shows my lack of knowledge of flat towing a vehicle behind an RV.

Does the Jeep's odometer tally all those miles as it's towed behind the RV? Or since the vehicle is not running and in neutral it doesn't count those miles on the odometer. I've always wondered about that, since I've never owned an RV and never asked before.

 

How much strain is put on the steering components and on the front drive train when flat towing?

 

No more than driving. Thousands of RVers flat tow their vehicles, and the Wrangler is one of the most flat-tow-friendly vehicles available. I have towed my 97 TJ for several years without any problems, and I plan to tow my 07 JK also. Several members of my four wheel drive club do likewise. I recently flat towed my TJ from Michigan to Tennessee and back using my JK.

The advantages of flat towing are better gas mileage due to lower weight and no hassle finding a place to park the trailer. The down side is inability to back up.

The only thing I would recommend is a braking system such as a Brake Buddy so the Jeep doesn't climb the back of the motor home in case of an emergency stop.

About the only trailer towed vehicles I see in offroading circles are vehicles that are not street legal or have broken parts that make them unstreetable.

 

The answer is "No". My 97 TJ Wrangler does not add miles when being flat towed, and I would be surprised if the JK is not the same.

 

I have a Class A Country Coach with 400HP and 1200Ft lbs of torque Diesel engine and I flat tow my 07 Grand Cherokee using a roadmaster Falcon 2 tow bar assembly and Even Brake braking unit. It is easy and I love that set up.
I would prefer to flat tow the Rubicon, but I have not found a tow bar assembly that does not cause me some worry.
I would love to be able to use my all terain Roadmaster tow bar, but all of those type of units and other types of tow bars have attachment points or something related, that could be damaged while off road.
The tow bars that attach directly to the front of the bumper are reportedly(according to the forum posts that I have read on the various related forums) are problematic. Attachment points deforming, rounding out and breaking being the most common reported problems.
If I bent an attachment loop or collapsed the receivers attached to the Jeep where the tow bars or the quick disconnects (that attach to the tow bar) fit and I could not, because of that damage end up being able to attach the tow bar to tow the Jeep I would be screwed and tatooed and probably stuck in the middle of no where
And then there is the issue of: I am travelling in my motor home 1000s of miles away from home and I break some thing on the Jeep. Having the jeep towed to where I could winch it upon the trailer and bring it back home sounds a lot better than trying to get a broken vehicle home from some distant place.
So, being somewhat paranoid by nature I have resigned my self to err on the side of caution and buy an aluminium open car hauler.
I am not jumping for joy at the thought of spending $6000 to $7000 on a trailer and having to deal with the extra weight and other BS, but I fell that I am caught between a rock and a hard place

 

Mileage does not rack up when towing my JK. I tow with a class C that has the ford V10 and it does okay in the colorado mountains but do not flat tow with out a braking system. I use the US Gear Unified tow brake system which works excellent.

The chance of damaging your rig so you can't flat tow it home is small. You can usually fix things enough to tow home but if you absolutely can't just go get a uhaul trailer. Way cheaper than buying a trailer that you will likely never need.

My tow bar system is a blue ox. Great tow bar but sort of agree about the concern of damage off road. I don't think it could get damaged beyond use but I plan to rebuild the tow bracket when I buy a new front bumper. I'll raise the bracket so it doesn't effect my approach angle so much.