lift help please
If I'm doing a 2.5" lift, do I have to loosen the control arms? Upper and lower?
Will it need aligned afterwards or will it cause death wobble afterwards?
I didnt loosen the bolts for them before with my '11. But I'm reading write ups where they say to loosen the bolts.
Do I need to? And will it mess up alignment?
Thanks. I'm doing my lift tomorrow morning
Will it need aligned afterwards or will it cause death wobble afterwards?
I didnt loosen the bolts for them before with my '11. But I'm reading write ups where they say to loosen the bolts.
Do I need to? And will it mess up alignment?
Thanks. I'm doing my lift tomorrow morning
Yes ... The weight is on the coils. You can support under the axles if you need more space to torque.
I like to use a long breaker bar in place of a wrench to hold the bolt from spinning. HF was selling this for $12
2007 Rubicon /2 door/6 speed
I like to use a long breaker bar in place of a wrench to hold the bolt from spinning. HF was selling this for $12

2007 Rubicon /2 door/6 speed
K, now when I lift the front end, do you lift from the offset pumpkin? Or directly in the middle on the actual axle?
I think last time I lifted from the pumpkin. But the drivers side always lifted up more than the passenger. Would there be any harm in lifting from the axle?
I think last time I lifted from the pumpkin. But the drivers side always lifted up more than the passenger. Would there be any harm in lifting from the axle?
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You might have to disconnect the Track Bar to get the axle to drop far enough to get the new springs in. As said before, loosen all your control arm bolts, and retorque after the Jeep is back on the ground sitting on it's own weight.
I imagine this is just springs? Do you at least have shock extensions?
Make sure you disconnect the Brake line brackets from the frame, along with the ABS wires! In the rear, same thing, but you have to drop the E-brake cables out of the hanger. Check brake lines for clearance when your done.
You can lift from the Diff, but it won't lift even. I wouldn't lift from the axle tube. It's easiest if you have two jacks, but if you don't, do it in steps, one side at a time, lifting from the control arm bracket.
I imagine this is just springs? Do you at least have shock extensions?
Make sure you disconnect the Brake line brackets from the frame, along with the ABS wires! In the rear, same thing, but you have to drop the E-brake cables out of the hanger. Check brake lines for clearance when your done.
You can lift from the Diff, but it won't lift even. I wouldn't lift from the axle tube. It's easiest if you have two jacks, but if you don't, do it in steps, one side at a time, lifting from the control arm bracket.
Last edited by Billbikes; Jul 17, 2014 at 04:55 PM.
This a coil lift with the shocks. I did the budget boost with shock extensions a few years ago on the '11.
But I'm just curious if I can lift the front end by the axle or if its too unstable. Lifting the the pumpkin is ideal, but its offset location makes the jeep lift up awkward.
Also, last time I reattached the rear ebrake cables to the tub of the jeep. Was I not supposed to? Doesn't seem right for them to just float around under there and rattle. ?
last time I also didn't loosen the control arm bolts. I'm trying to do everything right this time, and safely.
Thanks for the input!
But I'm just curious if I can lift the front end by the axle or if its too unstable. Lifting the the pumpkin is ideal, but its offset location makes the jeep lift up awkward.
Also, last time I reattached the rear ebrake cables to the tub of the jeep. Was I not supposed to? Doesn't seem right for them to just float around under there and rattle. ?
last time I also didn't loosen the control arm bolts. I'm trying to do everything right this time, and safely.
Thanks for the input!
Do in steps meaning lift one side at a time till the whole front end is up in the air? Or do one side at a time meaning, lift one corner take out spring and shock and install new ones. Then set on ground then do other aide?





