Teraflex 1352000 - TeraFlex 2.5" Lift Kit with Shock Adapters for 07-13 Jeep® Wrangler Unlimited JK 4 Door - Quadratec

Teraflex 1355210 - TeraFlex 2.5" Budget Boost & Shock Adapters for 07-13 Jeep® Wrangler & Wrangler Unlimited JK - Quadratec

http://www.quadratec.com/products/16058_1011_07.htm (This one is cheap and got good reviews, never heard of them though)

http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep_jk_3.html

10 Rubicon Unlimited Automatic transmission

-Daily Driver
-Maybe disconnect 1-2 times a year mostly light trails or mud going fishing, beach driving
-More cosmetic than anything, poser yes I guess
-35's, not going any bigger
-Don't want to have to buy anything else to make the kit work, also not willing to replace front driveshaft.
-Installing with dad, I'm not very mechanically incline, he is. Least pain in the rear installation

 

Then don't lift. Blown driveshafts are more common with taller lifts and lots of disconnected flex time, but have been known to happen with 2.5" and mostly onroad.


Everyone has their own opinion/preference, and none of us can tell you whether you will want any added components. Your best bet would be to learn what they all do, do a side-by-side comparison of each kit to see what is missing, at what heights 'most' other people find those missing components beneficial, and wing it from there. (ex. caster correction)

My preference would be coils over spacers, centered axles on both ends, some form of caster correction, and shock spacers instead of new shocks (since I would be spending the shock money on other components).

 

What I meant by not having to buy anything else to make the lift work was, which is the most complete kit. I understand driveshafts become an issue around 3.5nches of lift, I don't want to replace right away. If something breaks, that's all apart of the game. More or so was just looking at which lift is considered to be an all around decent kit.

 

I have a 2.5" TF coil lift. I have no issues. I got mine without shocks and got Fox 2.0 IFP. You might want to save and buy a front adjustable track bar. My front axle was moves about 1.5" to the passenger side after I installed my lift. I used a RK adj. TB for the front. I used the rear trackbar bracket that came with the lift and it is holding up fine. Hope this helps, Happy Wheelin

 

Also you will have no driveline issues a 2.5" lift. You should get many miles out you your OEM stuff.

 

Same as hooper only I got a teraflex front adjustable trac bar. Rides better than stock only I got the bilstein shocks instead of fox. Everything came out to a little over $900. Second jeep I've owned and used teraflex lift. You won't be disappointed

 

Since youve got a brand new car with totally new suspension there is no point in changing to new coils or shocks - especially in case of Rubicon. Your ride certainly wont get any "better" with coils and no worse with spacers.

In other words - in your case, dont worry and go for spacer suspension (TF, RC, AEV...). The only suggestion I would have - to be on the safe side - get the exhaust spacers (as offered by TF or RC). While most would say theyre not necessary, there are guys on this forum, who ended with torn driveshaf boots even with the TF 2.5" spacer lift...

 

YOU WANT A BUDGET BOOST/BB/SPACER LIFT
I've been looking at lift kits for about a year. Seriously in the last few weeks. I'm not a mechanic so take what I say as a jump off point vs fact. I did a post about the differences between coil and spacer/bb/budget-boost lifts. The Most Informative Lift Video Made... - Jeep Wrangler Forum . The short answer is get a BB. It's much less likely to get you in a spending spree fixing issues with going over 2.5". For light or even moderate trails it's not going to help or hurt all that much with handling. You will keep your factory ride. After you're done with 99% of the kits all there is to adjust is to center the steering wheel.

ROUGH COUNTRY BB VS TERAFLEX BB
Rough country's BB is a metal spacer vs teraflex that is a type of rubber. Some say metal is better, but I'm not sure if there really is a difference in lifespan. Rough Country i don't think requires any drilling because it doesn't add a trackbar correct bracket. Teraflex requires one area to be drilled, and adds the bracket that will center the axle. I think both kits take your swaybar link from the back and put it on the front. Then they give you a new one for the rear.

COILS ARE BETTER
The coil/standard lifts will be better off road. They will flex more. They are going to change your ride. Teraflex coils are known to be a bit on the stiff side. Coil lifts are made with people who have added winches, heavy steel bumpers, and armor to their Jeep. Otherwise you're going to get more lift than advertized. I would go with Teraflex, Rock Krawler as ones on my shortlist. Rancho seems to be one of the better budget options, but I don't know too much about that lift. I wouldn't ever get a Rough Country coil lift because they are known to sag.

COILS CAN GIVE TOO MUCH LIFT FOR YOUR BUDGET
That's not awesome if you're on a budget. The more you angle the front driveline the more stress you put on the front cardan u-joint, near the differential/pinion. That will speed up it's life. Usually u-joints are pretty cheap $20, but on the JK's it appears they are about $100. If you go over 3", at least that's the number I hear thrown out, you can tear the CV boot on the drive shaft, near the transfer case. If you were to replace the driveshaft you would want to go to a double cardan type vs the Rzeppa factory type CV joint shown below.


EXHAUST DRIVELINE ISSUE 2012+
On the 2012+ if you lift over 2.25 you will rub the driveshafts middle boot on the exhaust. At least that is height shown in a teraflex video. Maybe those were on a Jeep with stiff factory springs, so it is just a ballpark. The spacer can create just a bit of an issue with engine/t-case armor. It can be shimmed with washers. Another option is to use aFe Y-pipe if you have a 4DR.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s2CQD68LHSg TRACKBAR
There are front and rear track bars. They keep your axle centered after a lift. The rough country BB doesn't do anything to correct this issue. They say at 2.5" the axle will only move about 1/4" and will be acceptable. The teraflex BB and probably coil adds a bolt on bracket that corrects the angle. It require drilling a bolt. I'm pretty sure it shows it in this video below. The better answer is to get an adjustable trackbar. If you upgrade your lift you can still reuse the trackbar in most cases.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3JycmxpounE CONTROL ARMS
The further you lift up the shorter you wheelbase from front to back becomes. Also the caster gets out of whack. To overcome these issues you can install adjustable lower control arms (LCA). Some kits will also sell upper control arms, but those are less of an issue it seems. AEV also makes a corrective brackets that lower the LCA. They should work with any lift in place of new LCA's. They would help with on road, but lower your ground clearance which suck for off-road.


35's
With running 35's you're likely going to need to get new wheels with the proper backspacing. The factory is something like 6". You will need something that is 4.5-3.75 ish to run wider tires (11ish-12.5"). Then you shouldn't rub when turning. There are spacers that you can use, but don't. They require retightening and are not as structurally sound. Just get new wheels for about the same price. You might also need to regear if you have 3.21 axle gearing, or you'll be sluggish.

 

Go with the TeraFlex 2.5" BB and call it the day. The Teraflex BB is the most complete BB out there iMO. It's going to ride like it does stock. Super easy install. Even if you take your sweet time and read every line of the instructions you'll get it on there in a half a day. Took me about 3 hours in my

 

I have to disagree about the spacers. Lots of people including myself. There shouldn't be any retightening either. You should check them when you rotate your tires for obvious reasons but after 16,000 miles, mine have never given me a moments worry.

Also, you shouldn't have to buy anything for a 2.5" lift that you wouldn't have to buy for a BB. It is possible to get a little more lift than anticipated but it is not enough to require additional parts.