Ok guys, I have the cash to get the lift and WAS going to go with the Rough Country 4" with the 2.2's until I did research on here. After reading about needing adjustable track bars and don't use cam bolts, wheels will be off center without track bar, front driveshaft trouble, yada yada yada yada freakin yada. Now I'm almost scared it will screw up my JK. I know from info overload that if I had 5K to drop on just the lift it could be done and be nuclear proof, but I'm not J. Paul Getty. I wanted to get the 5-35's and the lift installed by a shop and had a quote of under 2400.
Sorry about the rant but am I just being paranoid. Is the basic 4" Rough Country with the 2.2's adequate for the Jeeper who only once a month hits the power lines or local mud hole? I have the tow package with 4:10's, will it hang ok with the 35"s?
This really is one of the best sites on the internet and I belong to a few, but holy crap the amount of info on here is insane (mean this in a good way).
Thanks for any input. I'm sure I will get some razzing over the whineing but just don't want to trash my Jeep.

 

Not surre about the 4" but the 2.5" RC will handle 35" tires and from my research you don't need all that extra equipment. I just bought the 2.5" lift for that reason even though I'm looking to go with 33" tires. Do a search for more info. on this subject.

 

You only need a 2.5 to clear 35s, and that doesnt require shafts, trackbars etc. If you're going 4", yes you will need a front shaft, front trackbar, and extended brake lines. If you're only moderately mechanically inclined, then I would recommend 2.5 if you want to leave the shop out of it, if you're doing the 4" then you'll probably need assistance.

 

If you are a "mild" wheeler, and want to run 35's, then go with a 2.5" to 3" lift kit. They require much less, and clear 35's. If you go over 3", then you will need to change out more than just springs and shocks.

 

Well, after much thought its looking like the 2.5 BB and the 35's on steelies. The only reason for going with the steelies is to get the offset. Then I know I won't rub for sure. This seems much simpler and cheaper. Later down the road if I want to go up, I won't have that much in the BB to just remove it. Thanks for the responses and no flaming....lol.

 

I echo what the others have said. The 4" lift is going to be too much ka-ching to do it right. The budget boost will work for you.

 

I too am in your position. Originally I wanted to go straight to 35's then learned I will need to driveshafts and adjustable front track bar. Basically my budget gone blown fast. So I'm reverting back to a Teraflex coil over BB with 33's. That way, I'm not stock and I can still play while saving up for the "ultimate" setup.

 

buy 33's or 35's they are not much difference in price. the big difference for the OP is he has a 2 door and if he go's higher than the 2.5" lift he will need to consider the shaft. (no pun intended)

I started my Jk with a teraflex 2.5 kit with used 33" tires. I saved up the coin for 35's and got those and then when I saved enough again I went to a hybird lift setup. To each his own but there are two approaches. Save until you can do it all or build learn and build again models. I went with the second option buying some used stuff to get me there.

 

your right, he definetly needs to stick to a BB to avoid changing out shafts and buying adjustable control arms.

 

I've been running a 3" lift with no problem from my shafts, I have heard it's a but different if you have a stick...um manual transmission. I'm also now slowly upgrading to adj stuff like trac bars and control arms. Not sure what tranny he has but he shouldn't have a problem with DSs if he has a manual.