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Lift Question

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Old Jan 29, 2011 | 12:37 PM
  #1  
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This might be a dumb question but:
I have an 07 sahara unlimited, 4:10 gears, 6sp tranny that is all stock.
I am getting ready to put a 3" suspension lift on her to run 35's on 17 inch pro comp wheels.
Obviousley there are a ton of different options to go with when it comes to a lift. I have narrowed it down to Teraflex, BDS, and Full Traction. After looking at all of the write ups and threads I am still caught in between on which build to go with as it pertains with the thoroughness of the kit. I have read that you should have adjustable track bars and control arms but most of the kits that include that are pretty expensive. Is is ok to go with a $800 kit that has a lot of positive reviews or wait and go with a $1400 kit that might be more than what I need. I live in south Fl and would use it for mild trails and some mud. Not really interested in rock crawling or anything like that. any help would be great. Thanks.
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Old Jan 29, 2011 | 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Rexlba
This might be a dumb question but:
I have an 07 sahara unlimited, 4:10 gears, 6sp tranny that is all stock.
I am getting ready to put a 3" suspension lift on her to run 35's on 17 inch pro comp wheels.
Obviousley there are a ton of different options to go with when it comes to a lift. I have narrowed it down to Teraflex, BDS, and Full Traction. After looking at all of the write ups and threads I am still caught in between on which build to go with as it pertains with the thoroughness of the kit. I have read that you should have adjustable track bars and control arms but most of the kits that include that are pretty expensive. Is is ok to go with a $800 kit that has a lot of positive reviews or wait and go with a $1400 kit that might be more than what I need. I live in south Fl and would use it for mild trails and some mud. Not really interested in rock crawling or anything like that. any help would be great. Thanks.
A front trackbar and front lower adj control arms(LCA's) are recommended for that height, but not a "necessity". I ran my TF 2.5" coil lift without them for awhile with no problems. They just improve the drivability.

You won't have to budget for driveshafts since you have a 4dr/6spd, so that helps. I don't have any experience with BDS or FT, but the 2.5" TF includes everything necessary for that height. I bought the adj front trackbar and LCA's later on, they definitely help fine-tuning the suspension, but you can easily wait until you have the $ to upgrade.
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Old Jan 29, 2011 | 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by stlfan06

A front trackbar and front lower adj control arms(LCA's) are recommended for that height, but not a "necessity". I ran my TF 2.5" coil lift without them for awhile with no problems. They just improve the drivability.

You won't have to budget for driveshafts since you have a 4dr/6spd, so that helps. I don't have any experience with BDS or FT, but the 2.5" TF includes everything necessary for that height. I bought the adj front trackbar and LCA's later on, they definitely help fine-tuning the suspension, but you can easily wait until you have the $ to upgrade.
Thanks for the info
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Old Jan 29, 2011 | 02:02 PM
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Tons of personal preference involved, but start off with: Do you actually understand what the different components do? And at what approximate heights they may turn from a 'want' to a 'need'? When you get over 3 inches, axle centering and caster correction are very good things. Only you can decide if either is a need, or if you can wait and add them later.

Also look in to the actual height you are likely to get with the various coils. Those 3" TF coils are known to give 4" on 4doors. Does this change your opinion on which components you want? It should.

And contrary to popular believe, lift height is only one of the factors for needing new driveshafts. Just from the new angles, you should expect to replace that front shaft at some point. Factor in all the variables and decide how soon to start budgeting.
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Old Jan 29, 2011 | 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by nthinuf
Tons of personal preference involved, but start off with: Do you actually understand what the different components do? And at what approximate heights they may turn from a 'want' to a 'need'? When you get over 3 inches, axle centering and caster correction are very good things. Only you can decide if either is a need, or if you can wait and add them later.

Also look in to the actual height you are likely to get with the various coils. Those 3" TF coils are known to give 4" on 4doors. Does this change your opinion on which components you want? It should.

And contrary to popular believe, lift height is only one of the factors for needing new driveshafts. Just from the new angles, you should expect to replace that front shaft at some point. Factor in all the variables and decide how soon to start budgeting.
True, some people are very nit picky about perfecting their ride instantly. If so, budget for the trackbar and LCA's with the lift.

My opinions above are for a lift that nets 3", not a 3" lift that nets 4"-4.5", hence my stated personal experience with a TF 2.5", which nets approx 3".

I've yet to hear of anyone with a (net) 3" lift/6spd needing to replace a front driveshaft strictly because of a lift (not trail damage).

Per the FAQ's:

"Q: Are new driveshafts needed after installing a lift?
A: You really should consider installing a new rear double cardin U-joint style drive shaft if you have lifted your Jeep JK Wrangler 3" or more and have a 2-door. This is needed because the short rear drive shaft of the 2-doors will be at a steep enough angle that the CV boots will wear out prematurely. However, in order to do this, you will need to buy a set of rear adjustable upper control arms so that you can properly set your pinion angle. 4-Door Unlimited models do not have this problem as their rear drive shafts are very long and a lift will not effect the angle of it too much. As far as the front goes, if you have an automatic transmission, you will need to replace the drive shaft with a double cardin U-joint style unit as well as the diameter of aftermarket shafts will be considerably narrower and will not come into contact with the transmission and/or skid plate. Failure to do this will result in the tearing of the factory drive shaft boot as it makes contact with the transmission. Manual transmissions will not have this problem and keeping the factory front drive shaft will not be a problem."

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Old Jan 29, 2011 | 02:48 PM
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Keep reading. Plenty of people with your exact lift are losing driveshafts. Just because you haven't (yet), doesn't mean that it should not be a consideration for others.

That FAQ line you quoted is specifically concerning the big boot in the middle of the driveshaft. Obviously that is not an issue for a manual. But since that is not the boot I was referring to, my statement above still stands.
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Old Jan 29, 2011 | 04:26 PM
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If this true, the FAQ needs to be modified because it still states:

"keeping the factory front drive shaft will not be a problem"

...and it doesn't address the issue you're bringing up whatsoever. I don't doubt you, just haven't seen/heard about it.

Any threads you can point me to? I'd like to read up on it and see how many miles people are driving before this becomes an issue.

..not trying to start a pissing match, just curious.
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Old Jan 29, 2011 | 08:38 PM
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We build our premium plus 3" ($1195.95) kit for this reason. it includes everything you need to correctly lift your JK 3" and nothing you dont. Its also easy to upgrade at a later time. 2.5 or 3", they both need the same parts.

Also driveline angles are not an issue if you keep the shock length 27" or less. Over 27" and it will bind your driveline.

If you have any questions on lifting your JK, please feel free to call me

Chris
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 01:12 AM
  #9  
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Default Drive Shaft

Hi Chris
is that 27" front and rear, or front only, I have noticed that several vendors are using the Bilsteins (various models) or Fox which can be longer than 27". On a 4 door that is.

Originally Posted by Full-Traction Suspension
We build our premium plus 3" ($1195.95) kit for this reason. it includes everything you need to correctly lift your JK 3" and nothing you dont. Its also easy to upgrade at a later time. 2.5 or 3", they both need the same parts.

Also driveline angles are not an issue if you keep the shock length 27" or less. Over 27" and it will bind your driveline.

If you have any questions on lifting your JK, please feel free to call me

Chris
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 05:52 AM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by Full-Traction Suspension
We build our premium plus 3" ($1195.95) kit for this reason. it includes everything you need to correctly lift your JK 3" and nothing you dont. Its also easy to upgrade at a later time. 2.5 or 3", they both need the same parts.

Also driveline angles are not an issue if you keep the shock length 27" or less. Over 27" and it will bind your driveline.

If you have any questions on lifting your JK, please feel free to call me

Chris
Chris,

Thanks for the info. I havent seen that kit yet. I've been looking at various off-road websites. Finally found it at your home page. Looks like a good lift. Are you aware of any write-ups on it yet??
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