Lift question
#1
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Lift question
Just lifted my 07 4dr jk. And put 315/70r17s on. I know I need gears, but besides that. Are there any other parts that I'm going to need for my jeep to function properly?
Reason I'm asking is bc I've been reading alot about tearing a boot??????? Or something about the driveshaft.
I do alot of 4 wheelin. And I don't wanna get stranded. Any input helps. Thanks.
Reason I'm asking is bc I've been reading alot about tearing a boot??????? Or something about the driveshaft.
I do alot of 4 wheelin. And I don't wanna get stranded. Any input helps. Thanks.
#6
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with the 4" lift you will need at least a new front drive shaft, your stock shaft will last you a bit but once you start going off road and flexin it will go quickly. tom wood make a good shaft as teraflex also.
#7
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With a 4door, the rear shaft should be ok.
But keep an eye on that front shaft.
- when flexed, or on a lift at the shop, it will contact the crossmember skidplate. This makes some scrapes and marks, but isn't a huge deal. Lower the skid, cut a notch out, remove it, go with an aftermarket skid, or a narrower doublecardan shaft.
- when flexed, it will move over and contact the corner of the tranny pan. This will tear the big boot in the middle of the shaft. Again, not a huge issue, as all it does is cover the slip joint between the two halves of the driveshaft. Pull the boot off, and you can keep driving on it.
- a bigger issue is that you may start o bash in the corner of the tranny pan. Definitely do some testing. Flex it and crawl under and look to see how much room you have.
- and you will also want to keep an eye on the joint at the tcase end of the shaft. With the steeper angles after the lift, that little boot will be 'pinched', and will eventually wear through. Once it does, it will start spitting grease (which you will see as a ring around the undercarriage above the joint), when it loses enough grease, it will dry out, get noisey, and finally seize. You don't want to be on the freeway if/when that happens.
But keep an eye on that front shaft.
- when flexed, or on a lift at the shop, it will contact the crossmember skidplate. This makes some scrapes and marks, but isn't a huge deal. Lower the skid, cut a notch out, remove it, go with an aftermarket skid, or a narrower doublecardan shaft.
- when flexed, it will move over and contact the corner of the tranny pan. This will tear the big boot in the middle of the shaft. Again, not a huge issue, as all it does is cover the slip joint between the two halves of the driveshaft. Pull the boot off, and you can keep driving on it.
- a bigger issue is that you may start o bash in the corner of the tranny pan. Definitely do some testing. Flex it and crawl under and look to see how much room you have.
- and you will also want to keep an eye on the joint at the tcase end of the shaft. With the steeper angles after the lift, that little boot will be 'pinched', and will eventually wear through. Once it does, it will start spitting grease (which you will see as a ring around the undercarriage above the joint), when it loses enough grease, it will dry out, get noisey, and finally seize. You don't want to be on the freeway if/when that happens.
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#8
You'll want adjustable front upper or lower control arms to adjust your caster to a better setting unless your content with how it drives now.
Others have replaced both front and rear track bars as well.
Others have replaced both front and rear track bars as well.
#9
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Ok. I appreciate the help. I guess I should start shopping around for the driveshaft and/or a aftermarket skid plate. I guess another expense the old lady is gonna flip out over!!! Lol