Ok, after 2 bad Death wobble instances, I have started the elimination process on components to correct it. Let me first say , that I have a 3.5" lift running 35" tires. First my steering stabilizer was attached to the same bolt location as my axle end track bar. Ridiculous angle from the tie rod to the axle , causing an inefficient effect I'm sure. So I moved that to the lower hole and greatly paralleled the shock and tie rod. Next , due to a fair amount of flex(1/8-1/4") from what appeared to be the OEM track bar, I now have installed the Teraflex adj monster track bar. I used stock mounting holes so the angle is just what it is. Now I had a guy at a local jeep shop tell me I already had an after market flip kit drag link. Me being a newbie to all of this frontend steering componentry took him at his word.
Can someone on here tell me based on the photos, if indeed I have a flip kit...I don't think so, now after doing some research....it attaches from the bottom!.
It seems to me that If my drag link was attached on the top side of my knuckle, then the steer angle would be less and actually more in line with my track bar angle which I think I understand is the geometry you strive for to make for better steering , better control ands less stress on the pitman arm , etc.
Also , can the ball joint in my drag link be removed and flipped so I can place it on top of the knuckle or is this an all together incorrect drag link.( ie ball joints are built into drag links from factory.

Thanks in advance for all the education and advice anyone can give.

Marc

 

Could you tell a difference in just the track bar replacement? i think we may have similar problems

 

Have you read through Planmans 'Deathwobble Diagnosis' thread? (it has been copied over to several different forums, so it's easy to find with a quick google search)

You do not. Steering correction (flip / high steer/ drop pitman) relocates one end of BOTH the trackbar and draglink. This keeps the bars parallel to each other, while lessening the steeper angles caused by the lift. You posted a pic of your 'stock' pitman in the other thread, and the pic in this thread clearly shows the draglink under the knuckle, so no, you do not have a flip. But, the previous owner installed a raised trackbar bracket?

There are some other thoughts that go into this, but basically correct - keep those two bars parallel while lessening the angles on both. But before you start drilling the knuckle --> take one more pic! This was mentioned in the last thread you posted to, but you want to be able to see both ends of both bars in the same pic. Then open in Paint or whatever and draw straight lines from mounting hole to mounting hole on each bar. This gives a much better visual of just how parallel they are, rather than kinda guessing based on the bends in the bars. (a few previous members were quite surpised at just how incorrect they were about the current parallel-ness, due to the bends...)

I don't remember the members name who owns this rig, but it's a good example to show the kind of pic you want to take. Notice the Raised Trackbar Bracket AND the Draglink mounted on top of the knuckle, and the red lines connecting the boltholes shows a clear representation of how parallel they are after the flip..

 

I have had a bunch of steering stabilizers... they get hit with rocks and break out in Southern Utah. But have never seen one angled back like that off the tire rod. All mine run right on top of the tie rod when tires were straight... exactly like the Falcon pic above. ^^

9 out of 10 times it's the trackbar in my experience. Even the slightest play and it's game over. Even with the new bolt on passenger side of pics, if that bushing inside the trackbar is not perfect, it will create wobble..

If you are getting death wobble (usually around 40 mph or so for me) and it's a smooth road... very consistent, every time you reach 40, death grip on steering wheel, then totally with you. If instead, you feel like you are getting wobble when you go over a pothole, I bet it's ball joints. If you feel like a bobble head driving down the road, would check hubs and bearings.

It wouldn't hurt to lift each side of Jeep and see if you have play in the wheels that should not be there. But I would start with replacing the inner pieces on both side of trackbar (all the manufacturers sell them) and torque to exact specs. Good luck!!

 

One thing that I did not see addressed is just flipping the draglink. The knuckle on the draglink end is tapered, so it is smaller at the top than at the bottom. It does look like and aftermarket draglink. You might be able to find a flip end, which could either require drilling out the knuckle, or SteerSmarts uses a bushing to make the hole a consistent diameter so that you can top mount the drag link.

 

You cannot flip that DL in the picture due to the bend. You'll need a new DL or at least a new Knuckle end. The Yeit 26 knuckle end from SteerSmarts might be a good option for you since you have the raised bracket already. Also, it's a no-drill so install is as simple as remove the old end and screw the new end into the existing turnbuckle, then mount on the knuckle.

 

I can not tell from your photos but are you running a drop pitman arm with that kit? If you can't tell post up a photo of it and we can verify. You don't want to run a drag link flip with a drop pitman arm.

 

OP had posted in a different users TB tread we've all been in and has factory pitman arm -

 

yes , I definitely notice a more controlled , smooth feel to the steering and ride after installing the teraflex monster track bar.( drove over old pothole areas that use to set it off and nothing happened) I think if I get a flip kit drag link end and install that, I will have the best I can hope for in front end steering geometry for a 3.5" lifted jeep.

 

I just noticed you have no front bump stops. You will need to run 3" bump when doing a DL flip otherwise you'll be jamming your DL into the frame rail as the passenger side is stuffed.