TheDirtman

36 days of off roading a year, that must be nice. I wish I had the time for that.

I would second the rear axle track bar bracket. I recommend this one and it has to be welded on, which is what you want. https://www.barnes4wd.com/Jeep-Wrang...et_p_1187.html. The bolt on type can break the factory welds pretty easy, its a common thing. It should be installed when the lift is on the jeep at ride height so you get it ligned up properly for clearance to the track bar and shocks. This is the one I would use with the front, again you don't want a bolt on bracket. If you can't weld find someone that can, there are plenty of welders out there and things like this are really not a big job that is going to cost a lot. If you already bought a front bolt on bracket get it welded on. Trust me you want a HD solid track bar bracket as most death wobble issues comes from the track bar. It is also a much cleaner look to do proper weld on brackets.

You don't need an aftermarket steering stabilizer let alone two. Send them back. You are the one buying based on budget and why waste money there.

Fox shocks tend to be on the stiff side for a daily driver, I know you spend over a month a year wheeling, but that 90% on road will be rougher and worse on a jeep that is not armored up and heavy. I would check the actual specs of the shocks, many companies run a short shock because their coils are not long enough. Pretty sure this is the case with BDS. At 3" of lift you should have 11-12" of shock travel. I am guessing this kit is around 9"-10" of actual travel. YOu don't see many people running BDS on a JK unless its the coil spacer. I have not seen any feedback on if you get higher than advertised lift or if they can handle the weight of a loaded jeep without a lot of sag.

I would go with a stackable bump stop that allows you to fine tune the set up, you don't jsut buy a 3" lit and throw on 3" of bump stop. More times than not you will be set up wrong and not be fully using the expensive suspension you just invested in. Typically with a drag link flip you are going to need 3.5" of bump stop to keep the drag link from hitting the frame.

If you are really looking for comfort and good off road traction you would ditch the 18" wheel and move to a properly back spaced 17" wheel in a C range of D if you cant find what you want in a C. More sidewall on the road for comfort and more sidewall flex off road when aired down. rotate the tires often, like with oil changes at 3000 miles. I see too many ruined tires from people that run off road tires and treat them like passenger tires.


HD steering links and a rear HD adjsutable track bar will make the jeep feel more solid but may not be nessasary right now and the same with the ball joints. Replace them when they fail. I typically don't recommend going with exotic or expensive ones if you are doing the work yourself. Jsut plan on ball joints about every 30,000 miles or so.

I did not see any exhuast parts/work for drive shaft clearacne at the cross pipe. You will need to add this to your list. Start a driveline fund. Also get some recovery gear, tire pug kit, onboard air, small tool pack with 10mm, 13mm, 15 mm ,18mm, 19mm, and 21mm wenches. Extra fueses, butt wire connectors, wire strippers. gloves. A 10,000 pound winch with synthitic line. Front and rear recovery points.

As a shop owner, I would not recommend the direction you went, but it will allow you to run 35" tires.

OMJK17

TheDirtman,

Thanks for the advice. I like how you took the time to breakdown, based upon the percentage I gave, precisely how many days I will be wheeling. I guess when I wrote that I was just trying to give a rough figure. In retrospect, I would have been better suited to alter my percentages or just basically say, I will not be doing much off roading.

Regardless, thank you, I really do appreciate the input of those who have way more Jeep experience than me.

nthinuf

Didn't see it mentioned above. That kit comes with Cam Bolts for caster correction. You will not be installing those, correct? The CA Brackets are the better call between the two options.

OMJK17

Yeah I decided to just install the geo brackets instead. Besides, my friend upgraded to adj control arms so he gave me his Rancho geo brackets, in really good condition. so it saves me a penny as well.

EHarris

When it comes to lifts listen to the Dirtman! I edited this to include that I do have JKS front and rear track bars. They are higher up on the priority list than Tie Rod and Drag Link but getting them all done in one shot is always nice if you can afford it.

Rich Hanner

I have the BDS 3" lift w/ fox shocks. There are a million ways you can go with any lift, but as far as your concerns of ride/drive quality, you can put that to rest. Mine rides hands down better than factory on and off road.

OMJK17

Rich,

Thanks! that's good to hear!

OMJK17

So I understand...Would u suggest both a rear adjustable trackbar along with an axle side raised bracket as well.? Like Dirtman suggested, I'm been looking into a welded TB bracket. However till then a friend of mine offered me his Teraflex Rear Trackbar Axle Bracket for 3-6" lift. It seems to be pretty well reviewed. Would that be a decent temporary option till I have have something welded and powder coated on the frame?

resharp001

Most people are driving like this daily all the time....with a bolt on bracket. That doesn't mean I disagree with TheDirtman cuz that DOES happen, AND it happened to me. Weld on is definitely better, but yes, you're fine with a bolt on for the time being. Just keep this in mind.

The trackbar itself is subjective. May as well throw the bracket on and see how the axle sits. You're not going to be off that much. If you decide you want an adjustable rear bar it's only 2 bolts to throw one on.

OMJK17

So I think I'm going to return the dual stabilizer and with the money in return just opt for a JKS adj rear trackbar to go along with the Teraflex rear axle mount that I got. I read on the Teraflex website that this mount can be welded as well.

Any thoughts?