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Locker help

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Old Mar 5, 2014 | 12:14 PM
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Default Locker help

I'm gearing my jeep in the next month or so and I'm planning on doing a full locker in the rear and a Aussie locker up front. I currently have 3.21 gears on 35s with d30 front. Going to 4.88s has anyone had any experiance with these gears? I just can't afford to do selectable locker
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Old Mar 5, 2014 | 12:47 PM
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Not sure if you have the 3.8 or 3.6L engine but I hear 4.88 gearing is great with the manual trans and 35" tires.

No personal experience with the Aussie locker in a jeep. Read up them if you plan to drive on snow/ice. Some lockers can get you in trouble on slick roads.
The reps at Northridge4x4 could probably give you some first hand experience with them.

I did run a Detroit TrueTrac LSD in the front axle of my 07 X 2 door. Used it for 5 years on 35" tires with 4.10 gears, manual trans.
No side effects all. Handled great on hard pack snow, sand, mud, whatever we threw at it.
Helical gear setup never wears out, rated to 37" tires. No expensive friction modifier needed either. Just straight 90wt gear oil. Paid around $400 at Summit.
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Old Mar 5, 2014 | 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by ride4life1990
I'm gearing my jeep in the next month or so and I'm planning on doing a full locker in the rear and a Aussie locker up front. I currently have 3.21 gears on 35s with d30 front. Going to 4.88s has anyone had any experiance with these gears? I just can't afford to do selectable locker
I'd be upgrading my front axle before I did lockers (and I will be).
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Old Mar 5, 2014 | 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by LOST
I did run a Detroit TrueTrac LSD in the front axle of my 07 X 2 door. Used it for 5 years on 35" tires with 4.10 gears, manual trans.
No side effects all. Handled great on hard pack snow, sand, mud, whatever we threw at it.
Helical gear setup never wears out, rated to 37" tires. No expensive friction modifier needed either. Just straight 90wt gear oil. Paid around $400 at Summit.
A front truetrac would be about the same cost as going with the new carrier (since he has 3.21's) + the lunchbox, and would be my choice between the two options.

But -- there are some posts indicating that non-selectables (truetrac included) don't play nice with the newer 3.6 auto's. You might want to do some research before buying, since you may be stuck with the choice of open or selectable.

What was your question about 4.88's? Plenty of people running them, and plenty of threads to read through for more info.
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Old Mar 5, 2014 | 01:45 PM
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I would definately only Put a Selectable Locker up front (My opinion). I have had no experiance with Aussie lockers. I did how ever have a lockrite in the front of my TJ and it was definately something to pay attention to. The auto lockers dont always unlock when they should, thus resulting in some handling issues especially during foul weather. Is this your daily driver? if so how far do you drive it? How often and how hard do you wheel? Just some of the questions you should ask yourself before you choose. Somethings you can be budget conscious about, but this is on you need to really evaluate. Currently I am only running a selectable E-locker in the rear and stock with gears in the front. I do alot of wheeling but mostly trails with only some moderate rock crawling. I have no regrets as of yet. I would definately save up and do it right the first time. Just my 2 cents
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Old Mar 5, 2014 | 04:35 PM
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I have a 2013 3.6l automatic. I do daily drive it and wheel it at least twice a month. I have regear it I have no power I'm turning like 1550 rpm at 60 2000rpm at 80. In a perfect world I wud just upgrade the front axle and go with selectable lockers but I don't have that kind of budget. It's a sport so I have a d30 front and I'm not going to install a $800+!selectable locker in a axle I plan on upgrading in the future.
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Old Mar 5, 2014 | 04:51 PM
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You have to run a selectable locker in the rear of the new jk. I wanted to run a detroit, and that is not an option.
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Old Mar 5, 2014 | 04:54 PM
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I have a 2013 2dr manual and just installed 4.88 gears along with a Yukon Grizzly locker in the rear. No locker in the front.

Before re-gearing and the locker, I've wheeled some pretty tough runs while keeping up with fully locked Rubicons with no issues. The key is disconnecting the front sway bar to keep flexible. I just couldn't slow down enough not to heat up the clutch hence the new gears.

Gearing is great on the highway. My wife likes starting from 2nd because she's smoked the tires a couple times coming out of 1st.

The auto locker is a little to get use to driving. Some chirping on corners if I'm on the gas. Plus clicking when turning. Nothing unbearable. We are going wheeling next week so we will see how it does on the trail.

2013 Wrangler Sport; 35x12.5R15 Goodyear MTR's; 18/60 Rubicon springs & shocks; Lots of trimming
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Old Mar 5, 2014 | 05:07 PM
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I always disconnect when I wheel. I'm very impressed with how the jk jeep wheel. But I'm ready for lockers, I have to get a carrier for the front axle since I have 3.21 gears so I was just thinking about getting one that is the carrier.
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Old Mar 5, 2014 | 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by ride4life1990
I have to get a carrier for the front axle since I have 3.21 gears so I was just thinking about getting one that is the carrier.
Not sure if you wrote that wrong from what you are thinking. Full case lockers 'are the carrier'. Lunchbox lockers go 'inside' the carrier. So for an aussie, you need a new carrier + the locker.

If you go with a truetrac/detroit/grizzley/selectable/etc, you buy the locker only, you do not buy a new carrier.

And as noted above, a carrier + lunchbox puts you in the range of a truetrac. (assuming you get confirmation of what types you can/can't use for your year and transmission. Maybe it was the '14's that had the problem, not 13's?)

Last edited by nthinuf; Mar 5, 2014 at 05:46 PM.
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