Locker quandry
I have been searching and researching lockers and my head is about to explode.
I have a 2012 Sport with D30 front and D44 rear, both open differentials. I dont do any hardcore wheeling, mostly desert, and some mountain trails and possible mud/snow when fishing.
My plan right now is to sleeve and gusset the front D30 and leave it open, putting an Auburn Ected in the rear D44....but now I'm reading that the Ected is nice, but tend to break down over time with the clutch packs.
I dont want to spend the money for an ARB, and dont want a lunchbox style locker as this is a DD.
Would it be a good idea to go with a Detroit LSD in the rear:
Detroit Locker Part EAT913A589 - Dana 44 TrueTrac
Would it be a good idea to do one of these in the front too?
Again, I want to keep it simple.....no replacing the front axle with a D44, no ARB.....just a reasonable all around solution for mild to intermediate offroading.
I have a 2012 Sport with D30 front and D44 rear, both open differentials. I dont do any hardcore wheeling, mostly desert, and some mountain trails and possible mud/snow when fishing.
My plan right now is to sleeve and gusset the front D30 and leave it open, putting an Auburn Ected in the rear D44....but now I'm reading that the Ected is nice, but tend to break down over time with the clutch packs.
I dont want to spend the money for an ARB, and dont want a lunchbox style locker as this is a DD.
Would it be a good idea to go with a Detroit LSD in the rear:
Detroit Locker Part EAT913A589 - Dana 44 TrueTrac
Would it be a good idea to do one of these in the front too?
Again, I want to keep it simple.....no replacing the front axle with a D44, no ARB.....just a reasonable all around solution for mild to intermediate offroading.
Which ones, I have 3.73 gears:
Detroit Locker Part EAT162SL60B - Dana 30 Detroit Locker
Detroit Locker Part EAT187SL16D - Dana 44 Detroit Locker
or these:
Detroit Locker Part EAT912A585 - Dana 30 TrueTrac
Detroit Locker Part EAT913A589 - Dana 44 TrueTrac
And thank you guys for your time and help, it is much appreciated.
Detroit Locker Part EAT162SL60B - Dana 30 Detroit Locker
Detroit Locker Part EAT187SL16D - Dana 44 Detroit Locker
or these:
Detroit Locker Part EAT912A585 - Dana 30 TrueTrac
Detroit Locker Part EAT913A589 - Dana 44 TrueTrac
And thank you guys for your time and help, it is much appreciated.
I have a Sahara and I am in a similar situation.
Here's what I have come to understand:
- If I'm going to open my differentials up to put a new carrier (locker) I might as well re-gear from my 3.21s to at least 4.10s
- I was going to leave the front open on my high pinion 30, but after talking to guys in my Jeep club with a long history of wheeling they told me if they were going to choose one end of the Jeep to have a locker on it would be the front.
- I run 33x11 Duratracs and I wheel moderately here in FL. So I will not be pushing my gear as hard as say someone with 35x12.50s.
- I am going with a true selectable locker. No LSD or auto locker. Open on the road. Locked when I choose. Right now I'm leaning towards an OX cable actuated setup. Air lines can break, electric solenoids can fail....plus ARB sh!t is expensive!.
So that's my take. If you only do moderate stuff an LSD might work perfect for you, but if you are going to spend the time and money to do it, why not spend a little extra and make it so you will never have to second guess your decision down the road? What happens in 6 months if you are kicking yourself for not putting in lockers?
Here's what I have come to understand:
- If I'm going to open my differentials up to put a new carrier (locker) I might as well re-gear from my 3.21s to at least 4.10s
- I was going to leave the front open on my high pinion 30, but after talking to guys in my Jeep club with a long history of wheeling they told me if they were going to choose one end of the Jeep to have a locker on it would be the front.
- I run 33x11 Duratracs and I wheel moderately here in FL. So I will not be pushing my gear as hard as say someone with 35x12.50s.
- I am going with a true selectable locker. No LSD or auto locker. Open on the road. Locked when I choose. Right now I'm leaning towards an OX cable actuated setup. Air lines can break, electric solenoids can fail....plus ARB sh!t is expensive!.
So that's my take. If you only do moderate stuff an LSD might work perfect for you, but if you are going to spend the time and money to do it, why not spend a little extra and make it so you will never have to second guess your decision down the road? What happens in 6 months if you are kicking yourself for not putting in lockers?
Putting a locker on a Dana 30 front is a bad idea i think. The pumpkin and the gears are so dam small to start with never mind the axles,etc. For what you are doing you probably dont need a locker in the rear really either. If you are not going to go with a real selectable locker for the rear I probably wouldnt even bother with it. Buy yourself a nice winch and keep a good set of recovery gear on board just in case and dont worry about pulling your axles apart.
If I had to guess I would say 90 percent of the time I dont use either locker when I go out unless Im crawling over rough stuff at granny speeds. I very very rarely use my front locker unless Im really climbing a shelf or ledge.
If I was going to start all over now I would probably spend money on an Atlas before lockers now, not that I am suggestng that for your application.
If I had to guess I would say 90 percent of the time I dont use either locker when I go out unless Im crawling over rough stuff at granny speeds. I very very rarely use my front locker unless Im really climbing a shelf or ledge.
If I was going to start all over now I would probably spend money on an Atlas before lockers now, not that I am suggestng that for your application.
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I'm coming from a 2007 Rubi that had the lockers front and rear.....only used the front locker once....and while I plan on sleeve and gusset for the front D30, I'm still not sure if I'd want to put a locker in there. I am not going to regear....very happy with the 3.73 and 33" tires...perfect with 2.5" of lift. Again, I dont do any serious rock climbing, but I have used the rear locker on occasion, and can see needing something on my fishing trips to Montana, or expeditions in the Sierras.
So True-Trac front and rear, or just rear (already plan for Engo 10K winch on JCR Stubby)?
So True-Trac front and rear, or just rear (already plan for Engo 10K winch on JCR Stubby)?
Last edited by Capper; May 30, 2012 at 08:48 PM.
Well one thing you could do that might work out pretty decent is look for a Rubi 44 front axle and swap out the front and toss a LSD in the rear and you should be set for most anything. Gives you a beefed up front end plus selectable up front and an LSD in the rear that wont cost an arm and a leg. Selling off the front 30 and it shouldnt cost ya all that much to make the swap really.
Well one thing you could do that might work out pretty decent is look for a Rubi 44 front axle and swap out the front and toss a LSD in the rear and you should be set for most anything. Gives you a beefed up front end plus selectable up front and an LSD in the rear that wont cost an arm and a leg. Selling off the front 30 and it shouldnt cost ya all that much to make the swap really.
Again, I want to keep it simple.....no replacing the front axle with a D44, no ARB.....just a reasonable all around solution for mild to intermediate offroading.
Last edited by Capper; May 30, 2012 at 09:07 PM.



