So has anyone run both or decided one or the other for any reason? Im new to JKs and noticed that the factory arms are a hell of a lot longer then my old XJ and ZJ arms. Is it really benificial to run long arms on a JK? I plan on running 4 inches of lift with 35s or 37s. It will be my DD but I run the Con, Moab and its not a trailer queen. It will get wheeled hard though. Does anyone have regrets with a set up now?

 

We are running Rock Krawler's 2.5" X Factor Plus Mid Arm Kit. This kit flexes great. Check out these pictures of us checking it with the fork lift.

Fork Lift #1

Fork Lift #2

It also handles obstacles pretty well considering its only a 2.5" lift sitting on 33's, but we will be going to 35's once we re-gear it.

Rausch Creek 12/22/12 | Facebook

Rausch Creek 12/22/12 | Facebook

The kit was also pretty much bolt on. It does require lots of welding for the 3-Link Mount however it still isn't nearly as much welding as the long arm kit would require.

If you didn't go with the 3-Link in the rear then the only welding required is when moving up the rear shock mounts (if you choose to, which is a great idea), and welding the rear track bar mount in place. This step isn't required but based on the description of the wheeling you will be doing we highly recommend you weld the new mount in place.

If the fabrication and welding aspect of the installation does not bother you at all then yes a long arm kit is the better option. You will receive additional flex.

 

I'm running 4" TF with factory legnth arms and 37s. I'm fine with it. It drives great on the road and is great off road. Hopefully some more will chime in here with long arms.

 

As you have already stated, stock jk arms are on the long side anyway. I'm running the Tera 4in short arm kit. I've ridden in jks with long arm kits and the on road ride isn't show stopping enough to make me want to spend that much more on arms, down time, cutting and welding. Off road flex is negligible at best unless your in some kind of contest over an inch more or so. You can get more flex by running longer shocks, coil retainers and less bump stopping. You just need to do it right so you dont over compress your coils. Those of which cost way less than long arms. Anything over 4in you would might want to consider long arms , say a 6 in kit. Otherwise you may be wasting $$ that can go elsewhere. Long arms really got all the hype back in the TJ era when they were really needed for a 4in kit. Now with the Jk, notsomuch.

 

I noticed JKs with 4 inch or so lifts still have relatively level control arms which is nice. That retains highway smoothness and keeps the tires at the beginning of the arc when it flexes. Really the only reason I'd get long arms is because they redesign the angles to achieve better performance through anti dive, anti squat and roll center changes. One thing about a JKU is the long wheel base and maximizing clearance. If I decide a short arm route I'll probably go with something like the Currie set up with 8 new arms. Long arms I'm not worried about installing because I'm a mechanic and have the resources but the price difference could be sliders and other armor. I agree, I think long arms are a thing for TJs or hard core JKs. I wheel hard but ultimately it's my DD also.

I'll wait for more opinions before I decide which route to go. Thanks!