Looking for constructive criticism
JK Junkie
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 3,697
Likes: 2
From: Grosse Pointe, MI
This thread is full of poor information and advice. Let's stick to reality.
1. You need a max of 2.5" of lift. Lift height has nothing to do with how large of a tire you can fit. Bump stops control that. If you go beyond 2.5", you're inviting all kinds of issues for no reason.
2. Run the stock driveshafts. You'll be fine. You'll break one on a rock before it wears out.
3. You don't need ball joints, etc. The Duratracs are basically 34" tires and are super light.
4. You absolutely should gusset the C's. You'll bend them at Rausch eventually. Buying a new axle sucks. Probably best to sleeve or truss the front axle as well. Cheap insurance policy. If you are not aware, the stock JK axle housing is really weak and prone to bending or breaking. You want to prevent that.
5. You'll need wheel spacers or new wheels. To prevent rubbing, you'll want 2" spacers or 4.5" back space wheels. Ditch the front air dam, it will rub regardless.
Lastly, the AEV lift is overpriced and really lacks basic parts used in a suspension lift. You won't hate it, but it's snake oil.
1. You need a max of 2.5" of lift. Lift height has nothing to do with how large of a tire you can fit. Bump stops control that. If you go beyond 2.5", you're inviting all kinds of issues for no reason.
2. Run the stock driveshafts. You'll be fine. You'll break one on a rock before it wears out.
3. You don't need ball joints, etc. The Duratracs are basically 34" tires and are super light.
4. You absolutely should gusset the C's. You'll bend them at Rausch eventually. Buying a new axle sucks. Probably best to sleeve or truss the front axle as well. Cheap insurance policy. If you are not aware, the stock JK axle housing is really weak and prone to bending or breaking. You want to prevent that.
5. You'll need wheel spacers or new wheels. To prevent rubbing, you'll want 2" spacers or 4.5" back space wheels. Ditch the front air dam, it will rub regardless.
Lastly, the AEV lift is overpriced and really lacks basic parts used in a suspension lift. You won't hate it, but it's snake oil.
JK Super Freak
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 1,813
Likes: 0
From: Nokesville, Va
This thread is full of poor information and advice. Let's stick to reality.
1. You need a max of 2.5" of lift. Lift height has nothing to do with how large of a tire you can fit. Bump stops control that. If you go beyond 2.5", you're inviting all kinds of issues for no reason.
2. Run the stock driveshafts. You'll be fine. You'll break one on a rock before it wears out.
3. You don't need ball joints, etc. The Duratracs are basically 34" tires and are super light.
4. You absolutely should gusset the C's. You'll bend them at Rausch eventually. Buying a new axle sucks. Probably best to sleeve or truss the front axle as well. Cheap insurance policy. If you are not aware, the stock JK axle housing is really weak and prone to bending or breaking. You want to prevent that.
5. You'll need wheel spacers or new wheels. To prevent rubbing, you'll want 2" spacers or 4.5" back space wheels. Ditch the front air dam, it will rub regardless.
Lastly, the AEV lift is overpriced and really lacks basic parts used in a suspension lift. You won't hate it, but it's snake oil.
1. You need a max of 2.5" of lift. Lift height has nothing to do with how large of a tire you can fit. Bump stops control that. If you go beyond 2.5", you're inviting all kinds of issues for no reason.
2. Run the stock driveshafts. You'll be fine. You'll break one on a rock before it wears out.
3. You don't need ball joints, etc. The Duratracs are basically 34" tires and are super light.
4. You absolutely should gusset the C's. You'll bend them at Rausch eventually. Buying a new axle sucks. Probably best to sleeve or truss the front axle as well. Cheap insurance policy. If you are not aware, the stock JK axle housing is really weak and prone to bending or breaking. You want to prevent that.
5. You'll need wheel spacers or new wheels. To prevent rubbing, you'll want 2" spacers or 4.5" back space wheels. Ditch the front air dam, it will rub regardless.
Lastly, the AEV lift is overpriced and really lacks basic parts used in a suspension lift. You won't hate it, but it's snake oil.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 159
Likes: 1
From: Murrieta, CA
This thread is full of poor information and advice. Let's stick to reality.
1. You need a max of 2.5" of lift. Lift height has nothing to do with how large of a tire you can fit. Bump stops control that. If you go beyond 2.5", you're inviting all kinds of issues for no reason.
2. Run the stock driveshafts. You'll be fine. You'll break one on a rock before it wears out.
3. You don't need ball joints, etc. The Duratracs are basically 34" tires and are super light.
4. You absolutely should gusset the C's. You'll bend them at Rausch eventually. Buying a new axle sucks. Probably best to sleeve or truss the front axle as well. Cheap insurance policy. If you are not aware, the stock JK axle housing is really weak and prone to bending or breaking. You want to prevent that.
5. You'll need wheel spacers or new wheels. To prevent rubbing, you'll want 2" spacers or 4.5" back space wheels. Ditch the front air dam, it will rub regardless.
Lastly, the AEV lift is overpriced and really lacks basic parts used in a suspension lift. You won't hate it, but it's snake oil.
1. You need a max of 2.5" of lift. Lift height has nothing to do with how large of a tire you can fit. Bump stops control that. If you go beyond 2.5", you're inviting all kinds of issues for no reason.
2. Run the stock driveshafts. You'll be fine. You'll break one on a rock before it wears out.
3. You don't need ball joints, etc. The Duratracs are basically 34" tires and are super light.
4. You absolutely should gusset the C's. You'll bend them at Rausch eventually. Buying a new axle sucks. Probably best to sleeve or truss the front axle as well. Cheap insurance policy. If you are not aware, the stock JK axle housing is really weak and prone to bending or breaking. You want to prevent that.
5. You'll need wheel spacers or new wheels. To prevent rubbing, you'll want 2" spacers or 4.5" back space wheels. Ditch the front air dam, it will rub regardless.
Lastly, the AEV lift is overpriced and really lacks basic parts used in a suspension lift. You won't hate it, but it's snake oil.
But you didn't answer the unspoken question on "How to get a .98g skid pad rating on a lifted JK?"
I was leaving the lift size, brand out of any answer I would give, that is what Dirtman's sticky is for. Great advice on your list. I do have one questions from your list. At what lift does someone need driveshafts on a 2 dr? I can't remember off the top of my head and the sticky is gone. The OP has a 2 dr and I do remember the need for driveshafts at a lower lift height than the JKU.
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
From: New York, Long Island
This thread is full of poor information and advice. Let's stick to reality.
1. You need a max of 2.5" of lift. Lift height has nothing to do with how large of a tire you can fit. Bump stops control that. If you go beyond 2.5", you're inviting all kinds of issues for no reason.
2. Run the stock driveshafts. You'll be fine. You'll break one on a rock before it wears out.
3. You don't need ball joints, etc. The Duratracs are basically 34" tires and are super light.
4. You absolutely should gusset the C's. You'll bend them at Rausch eventually. Buying a new axle sucks. Probably best to sleeve or truss the front axle as well. Cheap insurance policy. If you are not aware, the stock JK axle housing is really weak and prone to bending or breaking. You want to prevent that.
5. You'll need wheel spacers or new wheels. To prevent rubbing, you'll want 2" spacers or 4.5" back space wheels. Ditch the front air dam, it will rub regardless.
Lastly, the AEV lift is overpriced and really lacks basic parts used in a suspension lift. You won't hate it, but it's snake oil.
1. You need a max of 2.5" of lift. Lift height has nothing to do with how large of a tire you can fit. Bump stops control that. If you go beyond 2.5", you're inviting all kinds of issues for no reason.
2. Run the stock driveshafts. You'll be fine. You'll break one on a rock before it wears out.
3. You don't need ball joints, etc. The Duratracs are basically 34" tires and are super light.
4. You absolutely should gusset the C's. You'll bend them at Rausch eventually. Buying a new axle sucks. Probably best to sleeve or truss the front axle as well. Cheap insurance policy. If you are not aware, the stock JK axle housing is really weak and prone to bending or breaking. You want to prevent that.
5. You'll need wheel spacers or new wheels. To prevent rubbing, you'll want 2" spacers or 4.5" back space wheels. Ditch the front air dam, it will rub regardless.
Lastly, the AEV lift is overpriced and really lacks basic parts used in a suspension lift. You won't hate it, but it's snake oil.
JK Freak
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 830
Likes: 1
From: LI, NY
I run the 2.5" AEVwith 315/70/17 duratracs and I like it fine. The ride is a little firm, but it corners better than I could ever expect it to and I hear with heavier bumpers the ride would settle down a bit. I wish I could compare the ride to Rock Krawler or Metal Cloak. I've done greens at RC with no issues, but that's not really saying much lol. I plan to push it harder at this year's JK Freak Fest in May(great event - you should try to come) so we will see how it goes. I'll likely try to sell the Jeep after Freak Fest and get into a new Rubi like I'd mentioned to you a few weeks ago and I'll probably go Rock Krawler or Metal Cloak on that one.
Oh and as far as gearing goes I run 3.73 and it's livable, but maybe only because I've never driven one properly geared.
Oh and as far as gearing goes I run 3.73 and it's livable, but maybe only because I've never driven one properly geared.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 349
Likes: 0
From: RSM, CA
terraflex 3 inch with 8 adjustable arms. Kit is complete with brake lines and quick discos. Do it right the first time.
JK Jedi
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 4,364
Likes: 107
From: missoula,mt
Rock Krawler 2.5" stock mod ~$500 from northride4x4, Rancho 5000X ~124 from 4wd.com flexes well and handles like a sports car.
2" bumps front and rear. I disagree with the never wearing out the drive shaft. I think if you off road you will eventually wear it out. I did the rancho exhaust spacer mod as at full droop the stock was hitting the boot.
2" bumps front and rear. I disagree with the never wearing out the drive shaft. I think if you off road you will eventually wear it out. I did the rancho exhaust spacer mod as at full droop the stock was hitting the boot.
Last edited by jadmt; Mar 16, 2015 at 06:35 AM.
JK Junkie
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 3,863
Likes: 1
From: Bossier City, LA
This thread is full of poor information and advice. Let's stick to reality.
1. You need a max of 2.5" of lift. Lift height has nothing to do with how large of a tire you can fit. Bump stops control that. If you go beyond 2.5", you're inviting all kinds of issues for no reason.
2. Run the stock driveshafts. You'll be fine. You'll break one on a rock before it wears out.
3. You don't need ball joints, etc. The Duratracs are basically 34" tires and are super light.
4. You absolutely should gusset the C's. You'll bend them at Rausch eventually. Buying a new axle sucks. Probably best to sleeve or truss the front axle as well. Cheap insurance policy. If you are not aware, the stock JK axle housing is really weak and prone to bending or breaking. You want to prevent that.
5. You'll need wheel spacers or new wheels. To prevent rubbing, you'll want 2" spacers or 4.5" back space wheels. Ditch the front air dam, it will rub regardless.
Lastly, the AEV lift is overpriced and really lacks basic parts used in a suspension lift. You won't hate it, but it's snake oil.
1. You need a max of 2.5" of lift. Lift height has nothing to do with how large of a tire you can fit. Bump stops control that. If you go beyond 2.5", you're inviting all kinds of issues for no reason.
2. Run the stock driveshafts. You'll be fine. You'll break one on a rock before it wears out.
3. You don't need ball joints, etc. The Duratracs are basically 34" tires and are super light.
4. You absolutely should gusset the C's. You'll bend them at Rausch eventually. Buying a new axle sucks. Probably best to sleeve or truss the front axle as well. Cheap insurance policy. If you are not aware, the stock JK axle housing is really weak and prone to bending or breaking. You want to prevent that.
5. You'll need wheel spacers or new wheels. To prevent rubbing, you'll want 2" spacers or 4.5" back space wheels. Ditch the front air dam, it will rub regardless.
Lastly, the AEV lift is overpriced and really lacks basic parts used in a suspension lift. You won't hate it, but it's snake oil.