This problem has been getting worse for about the past month. When I first start the engine, I can't get above 2k rpm, even in neutral. If I try to accelerate in drive, it goes to about 2k rpm and then the traction light comes on and it sounds kind of like something is grinding, and I have no power to accelerate. Also, occasionally, the ABS light will come on and I can feel like abs controlling the brakes when I am going down the ramp of my parking garage. After a few minutes when the engine warms up to normal temperature, all of the problems go away and the jeep drives fine. Jeep is a 2010 Sport Unlimited automatic with 33k miles and a 4" suspension lift with 35" tires. Any suggestions?

 

I have been experiencing the same thing, I have a 2014 JKU with 4" lift and 35 " tires with a 6 spd manual transmission, every once in awhile I start my Jeep and my traction control light comes on and stays on, I have been told just to disengage it and jeep will shift better, but it still does the same thing and hesitates during shifting/operation, I have also been told that due to the significant difference in tire size from stock 18's to 35's will throw off a wheel speed sensor, or the sensor it self was bad to begin with. I have yet to check my wheel speed sensors, but I am also looking for a similar solution to this issue. I do not have grinding noises, but my engine bay does get really hot, but temp gauge stays the same. Several insights to consider would be wheel speed sensor, throttle positioning sensor, and fuel pump at this point. I am open for suggestions in order to fix this issue without going to a dealer as I do all the work on the jeep myself.

 

has anyone figured this out I’m having the same issue rn

 

Same issue on my 2015 Wrangler for last month. Will read warning code when I get a chance. Has happened 3 times...uphill...warm days...loss of rpm/power...check engine light and stability control light. Stability goes off after shutting down and restart...check engine goes out after a couple days. No overheating or other symptoms. 140,000 miles. May be time to trade it in.

 

This is happening to me as well on my 2014 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited but only after I changed the valve cover gasket on the passenger side and also replaced all the gaskets including the camshaft position sensor. I put everything back together and now my traction control light is on and have my check engine light on with code P0369. My Jeep is running fine but I can't get rid of the code even after I changed the camshaft position sensor for a new one. I hope I didn't damage anything trying to remove the valve cover but I did notice a wire behind the valve cover near the back of the engine down towards the transmission, does anyone know if this is how it should look

 

Just experienced this too! Anyone find solutions?

 

Codes first please folks. Sounds like you are all going into limp mode. Check front hubs/wheel sensors first but codes are important. Unsure why the cam sensor is affecting the one poster. Electrical issues are almost impossible to diagnose and correct from a forum so suggest repair shops with proper scanners. And these issues are going to become a pandemic as our Jeeps get older. Mine has a SKIM issue when first started (no ABS lights tho) so stopping, ign off, open door, close door, lock, unlock, open door, close door, start engine and away it goes. CEL comes on and goes off after a day. May look at battery in the FOB first. Will pull codes if it warms up here.

 

This occurred on my 2014 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon while driving. Traction control light and engine light came on at the same time.
The engine would struggle for power. RPM's could barely reach 3,100.

After stopping for 90 minutes and starting the traction control light went off. Engine light remained on.
After and stop and start the engine light went off.
No noticeable issues.

 

bet yall have or had codes for denied torque request along with camshaft position sensors codes... 2013s and some early 14s experience this. usually the cause is oil pressure or lack there of. it occurs for most when on the highway and under load ie going up an incline, trying to gun it to pass a car, pulling a trailer. usually the culprit n the 13/14s is the oil galley bolts on the heads behind the timing cover

 

I’m having the same issue on my 2014. So far the idiots at the dealership have replaced the cylinder head, O2sensors, lifters, timing chains….$11k later same issue as before they touched anything and now they say I need a new engine….they have no clue…