LOWER or UPPER Control Arms??
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 199
Likes: 0
I put on adjustable lowers to take care of the problem.
You have to be careful as the pitch angle changes between your dirve shaft and transfer case and this can lead to early wear and failure of joint or transfer case.
I have it sitting at about +6.75 degress with just the adjustable lower arms and combined with steering shock works just fine on a 3" lift with 35" tires.
It drives like a car (two finger lazy man steering) and yet performs very very well on the rocks as well. The Pro-Comp ATs (one of the last american made off road tires left, the rest are chineese) are nice and quiet.
Just eyeballing the pitch angle at the joints I wouldn't want to go anymore.
It's also very important to get an adjustable track bar to center the suspension correctly. In the back I have a track bar relocation bracket that serves that same purpose.
As you lift it, the entire suspension pivots around the track bar mount point and so swings down and towards the drivers side. Using either an adjustable track bar or a relocation bracket in the back pushes the entire assembley back to centerline of the Jeep. Then the front assembly needs to line up perfectly with the rear or you'll have wierd tracking issues as you drive. So in the front you need an adjustable track bar to dial it in.
I don't think the uppers are required on the 2dr as I don't have any issues with mine other than the bushing failure I posted about here on a thread called Tera Flex Death Wobble.
The lift rocks and so do da JEEP and so do ALL of you!
You have to be careful as the pitch angle changes between your dirve shaft and transfer case and this can lead to early wear and failure of joint or transfer case.
I have it sitting at about +6.75 degress with just the adjustable lower arms and combined with steering shock works just fine on a 3" lift with 35" tires.
It drives like a car (two finger lazy man steering) and yet performs very very well on the rocks as well. The Pro-Comp ATs (one of the last american made off road tires left, the rest are chineese) are nice and quiet.
Just eyeballing the pitch angle at the joints I wouldn't want to go anymore.
It's also very important to get an adjustable track bar to center the suspension correctly. In the back I have a track bar relocation bracket that serves that same purpose.
As you lift it, the entire suspension pivots around the track bar mount point and so swings down and towards the drivers side. Using either an adjustable track bar or a relocation bracket in the back pushes the entire assembley back to centerline of the Jeep. Then the front assembly needs to line up perfectly with the rear or you'll have wierd tracking issues as you drive. So in the front you need an adjustable track bar to dial it in.
I don't think the uppers are required on the 2dr as I don't have any issues with mine other than the bushing failure I posted about here on a thread called Tera Flex Death Wobble.
The lift rocks and so do da JEEP and so do ALL of you!
Last edited by LinkSync; Oct 10, 2007 at 07:42 AM.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 321
Likes: 0
From: Milford, MI
This thread highlights things that many people don't understand. A simple 2" budget boost effects many things. Most don't have problems, but some do. This is due to manufacturing tolerences. 4 little spacers, affect the lower control arms, upper control arms, track bars, driveshaft and pinion angles, brake lines and steering geometry.
We always assume that the companies that sell the kits/pieces/etc have it all worked out and it isn't always the case. The idea is to be prepared and to understand all the effects of your lift. There is a lot more than it seems. This is the reason why you see warrenty work denied (not supporting the position, but I can sure understand it).
Study up before buying your $200 lift so you know what your ultimatly getting into.
We always assume that the companies that sell the kits/pieces/etc have it all worked out and it isn't always the case. The idea is to be prepared and to understand all the effects of your lift. There is a lot more than it seems. This is the reason why you see warrenty work denied (not supporting the position, but I can sure understand it).
Study up before buying your $200 lift so you know what your ultimatly getting into.
Thread Starter
JK Freak
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 994
Likes: 3
From: San Diego
This thread highlights things that many people don't understand. A simple 2" budget boost effects many things. Most don't have problems, but some do. This is due to manufacturing tolerences. 4 little spacers, affect the lower control arms, upper control arms, track bars, driveshaft and pinion angles, brake lines and steering geometry.
We always assume that the companies that sell the kits/pieces/etc have it all worked out and it isn't always the case. The idea is to be prepared and to understand all the effects of your lift. There is a lot more than it seems. This is the reason why you see warrenty work denied (not supporting the position, but I can sure understand it).
Study up before buying your $200 lift so you know what your ultimatly getting into.
We always assume that the companies that sell the kits/pieces/etc have it all worked out and it isn't always the case. The idea is to be prepared and to understand all the effects of your lift. There is a lot more than it seems. This is the reason why you see warrenty work denied (not supporting the position, but I can sure understand it).
Study up before buying your $200 lift so you know what your ultimatly getting into.
