Lug Nuts Crossthreaded on Wheel Lugs?
#1
JK Freak
Thread Starter
Lug Nuts Crossthreaded on Wheel Lugs?
I just tried to rotate my tires for the first time, they have about 8,000 miles on them (I know that this isn't often enough).
However, I couldn't remove the lug nuts from the wheel lugs on the two front wheels. It's like they're crossthreaded. The rear lug nuts simply unscrew smoothly, while the front ones feel like they get tighter when they are unscrewed. The last time I removed the tire was last summer, one year, and about 7,000 miles ago, to install my lift. I haven't touched the lug nuts since.
I have AEV 17" Pintlers with the stock lug nuts. I also did not use a torque wrench. Could I have over tightened them? Can lug nuts become crossthreaded? What is the best remedy to the situation?
Thanks in advance for any and all help or suggestions.
- Cyrus
However, I couldn't remove the lug nuts from the wheel lugs on the two front wheels. It's like they're crossthreaded. The rear lug nuts simply unscrew smoothly, while the front ones feel like they get tighter when they are unscrewed. The last time I removed the tire was last summer, one year, and about 7,000 miles ago, to install my lift. I haven't touched the lug nuts since.
I have AEV 17" Pintlers with the stock lug nuts. I also did not use a torque wrench. Could I have over tightened them? Can lug nuts become crossthreaded? What is the best remedy to the situation?
Thanks in advance for any and all help or suggestions.
- Cyrus
#4
JK Freak
Thread Starter
#5
JK Jedi Master
Yes, you could have over tightened them, in which case, the threads may be bad.
No, lug nuts don't "become" cross threaded. They would have to have been started and tightened cross threaded.
Corrosion may be the culprit. Use some penetrating oil on them, and turn them off as best you can. Be prepared to replace some of the studs and nuts.
No, lug nuts don't "become" cross threaded. They would have to have been started and tightened cross threaded.
Corrosion may be the culprit. Use some penetrating oil on them, and turn them off as best you can. Be prepared to replace some of the studs and nuts.
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#8
JK Enthusiast
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I would try some penetrating oil like Kroil or PB Blaster. I think they would be better than WD.
Let it sit overnight and try taking them off with a breaker bar. I think you'll have better luck than an impact wrench. It'll be more work but you'll have a better feel and less chance of screwing up the flats on the nuts.
And the studs will break off easier with the breaker bar if they don't unscrew.
Then take off the brake caliper and rotor and knock the studs out with a hammer and pull new ones back in.
Good luck.
Let it sit overnight and try taking them off with a breaker bar. I think you'll have better luck than an impact wrench. It'll be more work but you'll have a better feel and less chance of screwing up the flats on the nuts.
And the studs will break off easier with the breaker bar if they don't unscrew.
Then take off the brake caliper and rotor and knock the studs out with a hammer and pull new ones back in.
Good luck.
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JK Super Freak
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#10
JK Freak
Thread Starter
Okay, so I used WD-40 and a breaker bar to get the lug nuts off. They all seemed corroded and rusted onto the stud. While most of them should work fine once cleaned, one is completely fubar. It's like it got crossthreaded and overtorqued. I just took pictures, but my laptop's down, sorry.
So can anyone help me out with detailed directions on how to take off the caliber and rotor and replace the damaged stud? Anyone with an electronic service manual who wants to do some cutting and pasting?
Again, thanks for all the help and replies.
So can anyone help me out with detailed directions on how to take off the caliber and rotor and replace the damaged stud? Anyone with an electronic service manual who wants to do some cutting and pasting?
Again, thanks for all the help and replies.