is it hard to figure out pulling the carrier i know about the theory of shimming but if you put everything back in the same way you took it out there really is nothing to worry about. i know that the carrier staps or cups not sure what they are called need to be punch pressed or marked in some way to let you know which way they came out but other then that i am totally lost. do you think it is possible for me to

open/drain the diff
pull the center pin for axle stop
pull the c clips
pull the pin all the way out
release the spider gears
insert and spin aussie locker parts in
replace the pin and c clips
put new gasket on the casing and filler her up

 

There are no c clips. Just pull the axles and drop the carrier. Be sure to keep each sides shims and bearing caps separate.

 

It might be something you want to have a shop do if you are uncertain.

 

There's some guy on youtube with a really good video installing an Aussie in a D30 TJ. Just watch that and you'll get an idea. Pulling the carrier is easy once you get the brakes off and the axle shafts pulled out a little. It really depends on your comfort level. Certainly a lot easier than setting up gears.

 

I just bought the Lokka brand auto lockers (I think they are Aussie's but direct from Australia?). Both front and rear for my 2012 Sport. I installed the rear D44 and had trouble getting it to meet the spacing specs. I had to buy thrust washers for a TJ to get the spacing correct. Once I got that right and started driving it my transmission freaked out and went in to "limp mode". I have an automatic transmission and discovered that I can not run any brand auto locker. Only a selectable type. Apparently the small amount of slack designed into an auto locker freaks the tranny computer and throws a code and CEL. If I had a manual transmission it would have worked great! All for 240.00 with free shipping. I sent it back for a refund, they where cool with it.

I am installing the front this weekend.

 

Any kind of auto locker with any transmission will freak out the CPU in the JKS. I have a Aussie up front and a zip locker in back now and love this combo. I used to have the Aussie up front and welded the rear. I have manual transmission and CPU would freak out every now and then. Since I went with air locker in rear, no problems. Did all installs myself. Aussie locker is easy and comes with good instructions. No worries.

 

Aussie install D30 on a TJ...same process on JK

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fEWYMuWOJws

 

So question about all this. Is it best to do the axle sleeves & gussets with this? Should you build up your axle before doing the locker? Has anyone done just the locker and are you having any issues with it? I have always heard the dana 30 is the weak link.

 

Why fix something that's not broken. I've put a lot of thought into it and you could get the kit to beef up your dana 30 but why. I'd suggest not to do it unless you like catching air or doing extreme rock crawling. If so you need to upgrade to a dana 44 (aftermarket) or Dana 60.. Your dana 30 should be fine I'm installing Aussies in the front and arbs in the back with Dana 30 in front dana 44 in back. My set of mind is i destroy the dana 30 and it's not worth fixing I'm going to upgrade.