Maybe dumb questions, but...
I bought my 2dr X with the thought I would leave it in stock form. Now, I am starting to think about small improvements--maybe new wheels/better tires, and a small lift. Maybe CAI and exhaust improvements if I can get past all of these "are these myth/marketing or do they really work" doubts that I keep finding as I do research.
I have seen some rigs that look a long way from stock, and look like a definite sacrafice of on-road drivability for rock crawling. I don't want to go that direction (yet).
My key questions right now...
What mods can be done to improve off-road capabilty with little or no impact on on-road handling/acceleration/mpg?
Does sticking with the stock powertrain, gear ratios, etc. limit ability to add a lift/budget boost and larger tires?
Thanks!
I have seen some rigs that look a long way from stock, and look like a definite sacrafice of on-road drivability for rock crawling. I don't want to go that direction (yet).
My key questions right now...
What mods can be done to improve off-road capabilty with little or no impact on on-road handling/acceleration/mpg?
Does sticking with the stock powertrain, gear ratios, etc. limit ability to add a lift/budget boost and larger tires?
Thanks!
The biggest change to your driveability will be the tire size. Depending on the size you will notice a lack of power and loss of MPG if you do not regear. A properly setup adjustable suspension lift could actually improve the way your jeep handles on road. Check out WOL's FAQ section for alot of mod info
IMHO - Yes.

A lot depends on your style and terrain, etc...but, if you want a capable DD that can 'froad well....and not kill you at the pump or the trails...
A 2" BL alone will allow 35's. 35's are the point of diminishing return on rolling resistance/compensatory mods....but, if you have little tolerance for ANY change in acceleration, 33's might be your limit. A 6 speed is more forgiving than an Auto tranny, etc.
Armor adds more capability for a DD, as you will NEVER lift enough to never hit, and, you want the insurance that your rig can still take you to work on Monday, etc.
If you do a small SL, the 2.5" SL's are nice, and keep you from needing more expensive mods to the drivetrain, etc.
When you raise your center of gravity (COG), you want stiffer shocks to help control body roll/maintain the ride you like, etc....and, getting longer shocks allows you to get the travel of a lift ( Keeps your tires on the ground, instead of spinning in the air, etc...)
BL's do not raise your COG enough to notice, as the body is light compared to the frame, whereas the SL's DO increase your COG enough to notice...albeit a 2.5" SL is not too bad anyway...but, off camber, you CAN tell, etc.
So - If you started with 32's...35's will provide ~ 1.5" of TOTAL clearance...as ONLY larger tires also raise the diffs and axle, etc., as well as the entire frame and body, etc.
If you add a 2.5" BB, I'd get longer and stiffer shocks with it to capitalize on the off road abilities, and maintain the ON road abilities, etc.
The 2" BL won't add much clearance, but does improve body clearance, but not frame clearance...its primary function was to allow 35's to fit, to get the on/off road traction and clearance/ flotation advantages.
Assuming 32's as stock -
If you get a 2" BL with 35's and a 2.5" BB, your frame clearance will be increased by ~ 4".
If you get 35's, you should at least get 35x12.5's - some people stop at 11.5's, but, a JK really needs a bit more footprint off road...we have conga lines of rigs getting stuck with 11.5's, and floating just enough to not get dug in with 12.5" section widths and wider.
To run 12.5's (305 - 315 mm) you need rims with less backspacing...or wheel spacers, to push the rims outboard enough to clear inboard components.
New rims are typically 4.5 - 5.0" BS....and most people get those new rims, or, 1.5" spacers, which make the 6.25" BS OEM rims have more like 4.75" of BS, etc....which is plenty...and widens the track, adding off camber stability, etc.

Hope that helps.

A lot depends on your style and terrain, etc...but, if you want a capable DD that can 'froad well....and not kill you at the pump or the trails...
A 2" BL alone will allow 35's. 35's are the point of diminishing return on rolling resistance/compensatory mods....but, if you have little tolerance for ANY change in acceleration, 33's might be your limit. A 6 speed is more forgiving than an Auto tranny, etc.
Armor adds more capability for a DD, as you will NEVER lift enough to never hit, and, you want the insurance that your rig can still take you to work on Monday, etc.
If you do a small SL, the 2.5" SL's are nice, and keep you from needing more expensive mods to the drivetrain, etc.
When you raise your center of gravity (COG), you want stiffer shocks to help control body roll/maintain the ride you like, etc....and, getting longer shocks allows you to get the travel of a lift ( Keeps your tires on the ground, instead of spinning in the air, etc...)
BL's do not raise your COG enough to notice, as the body is light compared to the frame, whereas the SL's DO increase your COG enough to notice...albeit a 2.5" SL is not too bad anyway...but, off camber, you CAN tell, etc.
So - If you started with 32's...35's will provide ~ 1.5" of TOTAL clearance...as ONLY larger tires also raise the diffs and axle, etc., as well as the entire frame and body, etc.
If you add a 2.5" BB, I'd get longer and stiffer shocks with it to capitalize on the off road abilities, and maintain the ON road abilities, etc.
The 2" BL won't add much clearance, but does improve body clearance, but not frame clearance...its primary function was to allow 35's to fit, to get the on/off road traction and clearance/ flotation advantages.
Assuming 32's as stock -
If you get a 2" BL with 35's and a 2.5" BB, your frame clearance will be increased by ~ 4".
If you get 35's, you should at least get 35x12.5's - some people stop at 11.5's, but, a JK really needs a bit more footprint off road...we have conga lines of rigs getting stuck with 11.5's, and floating just enough to not get dug in with 12.5" section widths and wider.
To run 12.5's (305 - 315 mm) you need rims with less backspacing...or wheel spacers, to push the rims outboard enough to clear inboard components.
New rims are typically 4.5 - 5.0" BS....and most people get those new rims, or, 1.5" spacers, which make the 6.25" BS OEM rims have more like 4.75" of BS, etc....which is plenty...and widens the track, adding off camber stability, etc.

Hope that helps.
Last edited by TEEJ; Aug 4, 2008 at 11:56 AM.
so minding a college student's budget (haha, sucks to want to mod and go to college at the same time you kno?) what would be some good packages? i.e tires, wheels, and lift example with brands....
thanks
thanks
I bought my 2dr X with the thought I would leave it in stock form. Now, I am starting to think about small improvements--maybe new wheels/better tires, and a small lift. Maybe CAI and exhaust improvements if I can get past all of these "are these myth/marketing or do they really work" doubts that I keep finding as I do research.
I have seen some rigs that look a long way from stock, and look like a definite sacrafice of on-road drivability for rock crawling. I don't want to go that direction (yet).
My key questions right now...
What mods can be done to improve off-road capabilty with little or no impact on on-road handling/acceleration/mpg?
1-Stock sized or slightly larger M/T type tires or an aggressive A/T
2-Sway bar disconnects
3-Winch
Does sticking with the stock powertrain, gear ratios, etc. limit ability to add a lift/budget boost and larger tires?
That depends. If you have 3.21 gears,I wouldn't go any larger than a 32 or 33" tire. If you have 3.73's, you should be O with a 34", or maybe a 35", but you said you don't want to severely impact fuel economy, so stay in the 33-34" range IMO.
Thanks!
I have seen some rigs that look a long way from stock, and look like a definite sacrafice of on-road drivability for rock crawling. I don't want to go that direction (yet).
My key questions right now...
What mods can be done to improve off-road capabilty with little or no impact on on-road handling/acceleration/mpg?
1-Stock sized or slightly larger M/T type tires or an aggressive A/T
2-Sway bar disconnects
3-Winch
Does sticking with the stock powertrain, gear ratios, etc. limit ability to add a lift/budget boost and larger tires?
That depends. If you have 3.21 gears,I wouldn't go any larger than a 32 or 33" tire. If you have 3.73's, you should be O with a 34", or maybe a 35", but you said you don't want to severely impact fuel economy, so stay in the 33-34" range IMO.
Thanks!
Hope this helps.
Last edited by 2K1TJ; Aug 4, 2008 at 04:41 PM.
IMHO - Yes.

<snip>
BL's do not raise your COG enough to notice, as the body is light compared to the frame, whereas the SL's DO increase your COG enough to notice...albeit a 2.5" SL is not too bad anyway...but, off camber, you CAN tell, etc.
<snip>
Assuming 32's as stock -
If you get a 2" BL with 35's and a 2.5" BB, your frame clearance will be increased by ~ 4".
If you get 35's, you should at least get 35x12.5's - some people stop at 11.5's, but, a JK really needs a bit more footprint off road...we have conga lines of rigs getting stuck with 11.5's, and floating just enough to not get dug in with 12.5" section widths and wider.
To run 12.5's (305 - 315 mm) you need rims with less backspacing...or wheel spacers, to push the rims outboard enough to clear inboard components.
New rims are typically 4.5 - 5.0" BS....and most people get those new rims, or, 1.5" spacers, which make the 6.25" BS OEM rims have more like 4.75" of BS, etc....which is plenty...and widens the track, adding off camber stability, etc.

Hope that helps.

<snip>
BL's do not raise your COG enough to notice, as the body is light compared to the frame, whereas the SL's DO increase your COG enough to notice...albeit a 2.5" SL is not too bad anyway...but, off camber, you CAN tell, etc.
<snip>
Assuming 32's as stock -
If you get a 2" BL with 35's and a 2.5" BB, your frame clearance will be increased by ~ 4".
If you get 35's, you should at least get 35x12.5's - some people stop at 11.5's, but, a JK really needs a bit more footprint off road...we have conga lines of rigs getting stuck with 11.5's, and floating just enough to not get dug in with 12.5" section widths and wider.
To run 12.5's (305 - 315 mm) you need rims with less backspacing...or wheel spacers, to push the rims outboard enough to clear inboard components.
New rims are typically 4.5 - 5.0" BS....and most people get those new rims, or, 1.5" spacers, which make the 6.25" BS OEM rims have more like 4.75" of BS, etc....which is plenty...and widens the track, adding off camber stability, etc.

Hope that helps.
BB = Budget Boost?
BL = Body Lift?
SL = Spring Lift?
This is certainly educational.
Thanks!



