Mini death wobble!?! Please help.
JK-Forum Founder
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 36,534
Likes: 16
From: Laguna Niguel, CA
toe out is a good way to address death wobble temporarily like getting you home from the trail but, it's FAR from a fix to what was actually causing it in the first place and, i would not recommend doing this for a long term solution. in addition to causing bad tire wear, it will mask your real problem which is most likely a loose, worn out or failing suspension or steering component.
JK Super Freak
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,053
Likes: 0
From: East Stroudsburg, PA
I'm not trying to step on any toes here, but I had similar problem on mine after I installed a 4.5" liftand 37s. Turned out 1 tire needed to be rebalanced and moved another that had balanced out to the rear and the problem was gone. Just saying, might want to rotate your tires around a bit.
JK-Forum Founder
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 36,534
Likes: 16
From: Laguna Niguel, CA
I'm not trying to step on any toes here, but I had similar problem on mine after I installed a 4.5" liftand 37s. Turned out 1 tire needed to be rebalanced and moved another that had balanced out to the rear and the problem was gone. Just saying, might want to rotate your tires around a bit.
JK Freak
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 682
Likes: 0
From: The living room
I agree 100% with all responses,,, this just goes to show how many little things can cause a "wobble" in the front end, not to mention, that it CAN be a combination of a number of things that cause a "wobble". Sometimes it takes a few tries, on some things, to narrow it down.
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Lancaster Pennsyvania
toe out is a good way to address death wobble temporarily like getting you home from the trail but, it's FAR from a fix to what was actually causing it in the first place and, i would not recommend doing this for a long term solution. in addition to causing bad tire wear, it will mask your real problem which is most likely a loose, worn out or failing suspension or steering component.
JK Freak
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 648
Likes: 0
From: Ann Arbor, MI
It confuses the computer and causes it to turn on traction control and related systems to try to correct the perceived handling issue. Computer thinks "He has the wheel turned but he is going straight, I need to fix this." The results of this can seem to be a wobble but not full death wobble.
JK Freak
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 964
Likes: 1
From: Riverton, Utah
Your description of the problem doesn't give much indication. Do you have a wobble, shimmy, or vibration? You say you don't feel it in the steering wheel, if.that is the case I would question the tire balance and driveline issues. 4" lift might be too much lift for you driveline.
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Lancaster Pennsyvania
If all the control arm and trackbar bolts were not loosened for a lift install, then wait until after the tires are back on the vehicle on the ground at the new ride height to retorque the bolts, the arm/bar bushings are twisted/bound/pre-loaded at the wrong ride height.
Control arm and trackbar bushings and bolt sleeves for non-flex-joint ends should be in a neutral position at the new ride height. A non-neutral position will results in premature bushing failure and shimmy/wobble handling characteristics.
I can't remember who here decided to test this principle. However, one forum member loosened his control arm and trackbar bolts, jacked up his jeep so the suspension was at full droop, torqued the bolts at that level, then let it down and went for a drive. It was kind of a jumpy, shimmy, flighty kind of feel according to his report.
Then, he went home, loosened all the arm/bar bolts, vigorously rocked his rig front to back and side to side to unbind the bushings. Then, he retorqued everything to spec at the correct ride height and went for a drive. He reported that the jeep felt entirely different with the bushings in a neutral position.
So, if the logic doesn't convince you, you can always test it yourself like that guy did.
If something else is going on, read posts 1 and 2 of the DW thread linked in my signature below.
Control arm and trackbar bushings and bolt sleeves for non-flex-joint ends should be in a neutral position at the new ride height. A non-neutral position will results in premature bushing failure and shimmy/wobble handling characteristics.
I can't remember who here decided to test this principle. However, one forum member loosened his control arm and trackbar bolts, jacked up his jeep so the suspension was at full droop, torqued the bolts at that level, then let it down and went for a drive. It was kind of a jumpy, shimmy, flighty kind of feel according to his report.
Then, he went home, loosened all the arm/bar bolts, vigorously rocked his rig front to back and side to side to unbind the bushings. Then, he retorqued everything to spec at the correct ride height and went for a drive. He reported that the jeep felt entirely different with the bushings in a neutral position.
So, if the logic doesn't convince you, you can always test it yourself like that guy did.
If something else is going on, read posts 1 and 2 of the DW thread linked in my signature below.
Thanks for all the help I would have never thought of many of these suggestions.
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Lancaster Pennsyvania
Your description of the problem doesn't give much indication. Do you have a wobble, shimmy, or vibration? You say you don't feel it in the steering wheel, if.that is the case I would question the tire balance and driveline issues. 4" lift might be too much lift for you driveline.