Modification you regret. What do you wish you didn't do today?
04-14-2014, 05:57 PM
#71
JK Super Freak
My MBRP exhaust. Tired of the noise, and had them mail me a new one after the muffler started to leak. The piping that came with the kit was so rusted I had to pay $140 to get it fixed.
04-14-2014, 06:25 PM
#72
JK Freak
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Baton Rouge, Louisiana
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I wish I would have sprung for 37s from the start. About to sell my duratracs 35s. MTRs will be here Wednesday. I should have bought a full rear bumper/tire carrier combo instead of the pita or-fab carrier. Well built, but holy shit hard to install. The other is buying a 2011 instead of waiting 6 months for a 2012,
04-14-2014, 10:49 PM
#73
JK Super Freak
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: South Carolina
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Lange side mirrors: entirely useless. No visibility. Whistle while driving. Shake endlessly.
Bestop Safari top: not compatible with their own Duster cover, makes sounds like a cracking bullwhip as you drive and the fabric flaps in the wind. Worse that getting rained on and a sunburn.
Bestop Safari top: not compatible with their own Duster cover, makes sounds like a cracking bullwhip as you drive and the fabric flaps in the wind. Worse that getting rained on and a sunburn.
Worse regret, is not know that the 3.6 was coming in the 2012. I would have waited before buy my 2011.
04-15-2014, 12:14 AM
#74
JK Jedi Master
Muffler. First I bought a Dynomax VT and it sounded like a ricer. Then I went with Flowmaster Turbo. I don't remember the model. Again, too loud and ricey for this old timer. So...Almost $400 later still got a noisy muffler. I just want a muffler that will give me some soft mellow sound.
04-15-2014, 01:24 AM
#75
Gibson GP403S-C Performance Headers
Nothing wrong with the headers per se. But the supplied collector bolts shake loose again and again. Not sure if that's better over cracked OEM manifolds.
Nothing wrong with the headers per se. But the supplied collector bolts shake loose again and again. Not sure if that's better over cracked OEM manifolds.
04-15-2014, 06:00 AM
#76
04-15-2014, 08:55 AM
#79
I went with flanged self locking nuts (not nylon lock nuts) but have no experience with them yet. The mechanic at my local Jeep shop recommended them.
Those flanged nuts are somehow crimped or squeezed together on the last few threads. The mechanic has installed them for me while he replaced the broken fuel pump on my Jeep. Last time I was at the shop, we went over the progress. The nuts looked like this one:
Those flanged nuts are somehow crimped or squeezed together on the last few threads. The mechanic has installed them for me while he replaced the broken fuel pump on my Jeep. Last time I was at the shop, we went over the progress. The nuts looked like this one:
04-15-2014, 09:09 AM
#80
JK Junkie
disagree ! with starting from simplest.
For me, the opposite. I replaced axles, gears, lockers, whole drivetrain so Rubi extra cost was a waste. Heck, I didn't even save the hood stickers! I did get some extra $ for the used D 44's though.
Also bought new off the lot with a dealer installed Mopar lift. That was replaced within a year. As were the dealer installed 34" tires. Total waste. Start with the simplest and build from there.
Also bought new off the lot with a dealer installed Mopar lift. That was replaced within a year. As were the dealer installed 34" tires. Total waste. Start with the simplest and build from there.
4.10s and low transfer case, e. sway bar , d 44s , lockers , or stickers ,
some people are happy with a stock sport for that matter . I see more stock ones on the road than modified here in the north . I liked the simplicity of my 2011 motor over the complex 3.6 in my 12 that's kinda a regret ! cant even change plugs in the 3.6 I think its stupid
Last edited by jeepmojo; 04-15-2014 at 09:13 AM.