Hello folks,

So. Im at a point in my build where im looking to replace the d30 front axle. I really enjoy the light to moderate trails and looking to beef up my axles to avoid any possible damage, i am also looking to go up to 37s and likely stay there. Currently im running MC 2.5.

A few possibilities are buying the axle housing for about 2.5k (im assuming buying direct replacement housing for 1k is a waste of money when i can get a beefed up aftermarket axle) and doing the gears/locker/ shafts myself with tonns of research. Or I can wait and save up and go full crate with locker for about 5k it looks like - pre assembled. Right now im looking at G2, teraflex and currie. Im leaning toward crate axle, but im a little sad I will miss out on the experience of doing the gears, though i can definitely make up for it with rear axle. Im looking at keeping the stock rear axle, and just upgrading the axles and gears.

So where I need the help... what would you do? Which axle would you get and which locker? Im not 100% set on gear ratio either, thinking 488 or 513, as I still do plenty of pavement driving. Also if i get replacement for stock axle shafts for the rear (and i intend to as my bearing is a little loose) how will the 30 spline yukons carry over to the new gear ratio?

My other thought is wheels - I cant run beadlocks in my state to keep it street legal and the wheels I want will require 1inch spacers to work with my shock relocation brackets. I hate the idea of spacers but i wanted to see if the aftermarket d44 would be same width as my d30 right now.

Anyway, alot of things are bouncing around my head right now. Id love any input or advice. Im really enjoying the process of building up my rig and just put in a adams driveshaft and about to do powerstop brake conversion. Learning as I go.

 

What follows are merely opinions of one person, so take them for what they are.

Axle – I’d just get a fully crated axle that is plug and play ready (outside of regearing your rear). I don’t have personal experience with Teraflex or Currie axles, but I do have a lot of product from the other company and I personally cannot recommend them. I really think that company is a joke in terms of a lot of their product and most certainly their customer support…..unless maybe you are a big YouTuber and can have a mutual nut-hugging relationship with them. For the common Joe, you’ll find any support with them comical at best. Did I mention support is a big effing joke? This is coming from someone that has their BJs, the unlimited 44 front, and a full float rear 60. You should also look at Fusion4x4 axles for consideration.

Locker – are you locking the rear as well or just a simple regear back there? It’s gonna come down to electric or ARB air locker if you want selectable. Electric gonna be easy peasy…..and air locker you’re obviously now adding additional components to maintain, or that can fail with compressor, lines, etc. I have electric, front and rear, and they’ve always served me well. I do have a dual ARB compressor, but it’s a pricey tire inflator.

Wheels – I would really, REALLY, try to fall in love with a proper BS wheel if possible. You can find a few non-beadlock options out there with 3.5” BS. Dirty Life wheels come to mind. If you had to deal with adapters, not the end of the world, but it sure sux to have all those extra lug nuts anytime rotors have to come off……and that is not just when servicing brakes.

I’ve experienced the following tire/wheel combos with 3.6L auto: 35’s on 3.73, 35’s on 4.10, 37x12.5 on 4.10, 37x12.5 on 5.13, 37.13.5 on 5.13, 37x13.5 on 4.88 (current due to final axle swap). If you are dead set on 37s, I would really go for something that is a 12.5” width and save a little weight while still getting the diameter you want. I would tell you to go 5.13. You don’t have the rubicon TC, so you’d appreciate the lower gearing off road. On the pavement, it’s not absurd. Yes, you’re going to be cruising around 3k rpm at interstate speeds, but this is not near as bad as you think. There are many days I wish I had my 5.13s still, but it’s such a small difference moving 1 gear set that it will never make financial sense for me to regear these current axles.

Best of luck with your build. Great looking jeep!

 

Really appreciate the continuous input Resharp! Exactly the thoughts that I needed. Is air locker really that much more maintenance than Elocker? I was considering doing the arb air locker setup and will still invest in onboard air regardless. I have looked at fusion as well, would you recommend their 44/60 hybrid? It is worth the extra 2k ish.

For gears, I think you convinced me on 4.88, hahah. I really dont want to be at 3k rpm on the highway, currently 2-2.5k is my comfort spot as I dont like to stress my engine more than needed. And im willing to sacrifice a little bit as im not getting into anything too crazy on the trails.

These are the wheels Im looking at. I looked at alot of sites and most 17x9 non-beadlocks are 12mm offset max. I did look at dirtylife wheels and It looks like they are 12mm as welp for that size and tbh the wheels arent my style. Im always looking at more vendors though! I definitely dont want to run spacers unless I absolutely have to.

 

Keep in mind that 4.88 is only going to be ~150 rpm or so lower than 5.13.......and you're just going to be downshifting more. They are both going to be very different if you are used to cruising well below 2500 rpm with no guts. The sweat spot with this 3.6L engine is around 2700-2800 IMO. One can think about stress in different ways. To me, cruising around 3k rpm is not stressing the engine really. I'd rather cruise there than stress the transmission with constant downshifts, which also spike those engine rpms up to 3500-4k rpms

I know the Dirty Life DT-1 and DT-2 wheels come in -38mm offset (3.5" BS) and they are a dual wheel that can be used as a beadlock or traditional mount. But, wheels are subjective to taste. I actually like the look of those and had tried to buy some at one point. That was a cluster F of availability of wheels, then beadlock rings, then returns. If you go with a 12.5" wide tire, the rear should be ok with the 4.5" BS on most wheels. Up front you would have a small clearance issue with turning radius and clearance at the frame rail. You may be able to just limit the steering enough with washers in the steering stops to prevent that. I really can't recall. I do know at one point i had 37x12.5 tires on 4.5" BS wheels and I got by. I might have rubbed just a little bit cuz I then saw some spidertrax for sale around me at a bargain price and slapped them on. A netted 3" BS was pretty aggressive look, and didn't do much to help ball joins with that kinda leverage.

Arb airlockers are good products. I have been on the trails with people that had leaking/spliced/kinked air lines that gave them issues. It's not THAT big of a deal, but it is yet another component in the mix. Seems like I've seen people with actuator issues from time to time on those lockers. Not a reason to not buy one though. Kinda like the gearing.....you have 2 real choices to make....both will be perfectly fine to whatever extent, but you have to pick a direction and move forward with it.

 

I have the Dirty Life DT-1 9303 Dual-Teks on mine and they have 3.5" backspacing. These wheels you can run as either a traditional wheel and use the plastic trim ring, or, you can do what I did and get the aluminum race ring and run them as an actual beadlock. I have had no problems with them what-so-ever.

And here is another vote for the Fusion axles. I am currently saving up for a set of Fusion 60's for front and rear. And I will probably just go with the e-locker again. I just don't feel like plumbing airlines under my Jeep. I have also seen an air locker develop a leak inside the differential housing making for a difficult repair.

https://www.dirtylifewheels.com/9303...ck-matte-black

I also run the Apex Rapid Tire Deflators in mine as well.

https://www.apexdesignsusa.com/produ...ision-valve-xl

 

Those wheels actually look a lot better on a jeep than In catalog. Interesting. I still feel visually weirded out by the logo making the beads look Un-even, but i suppose the option of blacking those out is still there. Great looking rig man.
Looks like i definitely was not looking hard enough for the right offset. Ill keep at it.

I feel like ya'll definitely convinced me against air locker, im trying to go low maintenance,

 

I do watch for downshifts and try to mitigate them, but i reprogrammed the computer to 35, so its not as much of an issue as it used to be.

But you are right of course about engine stress... and honestly, the way im going I would not be surprised about hearing that the future me is doing an engine swap in the next 5 years anyway. Though I suppose that probably means I may consider/ or have to replace the transmission and possibly the transfer case down the line as well, regardless. May as well have fun in the moment and do 5.13. EDIT: A loss in fuel economy is a small factor as well.