JulietKilo

All great questions, this will push the axle down but with our CV driveshafts there will be no issue. The drive lines wil run into a problem if you go more than 6-7 degrees of caster. But you wont need to. The only time you will need uppers is when you replace the driveshaft with heavy duty 1 ton 1350 yokes. Factory drive lines are fine. I can tell you I have done the research and this is the way to go.

CATCHONE

I just read through this thread.

Amazing work

Quite the adventure. I am glad I read it afterwards or I would have had to check on it every day for an update.

Even after all this I still think I am going to buy a complete kit. I could save a few $$$$$ by going to the basics and doing it in steps but in the end I will arrive at the same place.

So I may have to save a little longer but I will get there.

Still great stuff. I definaitley learned from your experience.

Thanks for sharing

JulietKilo

Thank you so much. Now that is why I do it. When I get some positive feeback from people it really makes the whole trip worth it. Plus its FUN in perpetual progress!!!

JulietKilo

Control arms went in tonight. Took just under 2 hours due to the wheels and tires coming off, the cold garage floor, tinkering, etc. I could have made it in 1 hour but I love spending quality time with my Jeep.

So here goes.

Tips: While the frame sits on jackstands and the tires removed let the axle drop to the full extension. Remove both sides of the stock lower control arms. Using the floor jack, lift the front side of the crosslink mounts on the knuckles to move the axle away from the control arms giving you room to line up the new longer control arms. You may need to use the jack on the axle at several places to get the bolts to line up. I found that mounting the axle side of the control arms first then lineing them up at the frame mounts made it a bit easier due to the flex arms mounting position.

The stock control arms are 22 1/2 inches. The new control arms are adjustable to numerous lenths but I chose 23 1/4 inches. The reason for this is to kick out the angle of the bottom to regain control arm length and create a caster of 6-7 degrees.





Here is a shot of the directions for their control arms.



Passenger side installed.



Driver side installed.





Driving Impressions and summing it up...

Steering is smoother, I dont have to try to point it down the road straight. It snaps back to center after I make a turn. I have no steering vibes nor drivetrain issues. I love them and they are way beefier then the stockers. They weigh 15 lbs each, the stock control arm is 7 lbs.

Bodo

Nice write up but I was wondering why you didnt mount the drivers side with the zerk fitting pointing up? Looks like it would possibly break off in the event you hit something.

JulietKilo

The control arm flex joint is not symetrical and only allows for full 360 degree turns. You CAN NOT half turn these arms. I have contacted Teraflex to let them know about the design flaw. Sitll waiting on word.

NE Wrangling

For minute their Juliet I thought your sig said miss West Virgina and Colorado.

I beleive they only need to change the side the fitting is on but I think they are planning on 1 for each side which makes no sense if you always need to turn 1 turn fully.

JulietKilo

LOL nope just miss some of the places I grew up and lived.

Read this for more information about the control arms.

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/sponsoring-manufacturers-vendors-check-out-cyber-monday-specials-24/teraflex-control-arms-directions-wrong-63846/

Mark Doiron

Did you mean 23 inches?

JulietKilo

LOL, yes I meant 23 inches. Can you say long arm?

EDIT: fixed the error.