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Modified JK TechTech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.
PLEASE DO NOT START SHOW & TELL TYPE THREADS IN THIS FORUM
My Jeep drives like absolute garbage. It feels very loose, like driving a bobblehead down the road. If I am driving forward, stop, then put it in reverse and press a little hard on the accelerator, I get a loud, metallic "clunk" from the front end. It feels a bit like it is oversteering, making going down the highway a bit terrifying. If I brake too fast, I get ABS lights. The list goes on -
Front drive shaft CV joint was destroyed (rubber gone, grease splattered everywhere), considering buying a new one but not sure how to get the best fit for this Jeep with this lift.
Radiator is constantly leaking fluid.
No heat on the drivers side, only passenger.
I have a 2011 JKU with the 2.5" Metalcloak True Dual lift, 2" spacers and Rubicon take-offs. Full disclosure, I am mechanically inclined just enough that I installed the lift myself, but then took it to an alignment shop near New Braunfels, TX to have it aligned.
We have a GOBI roof rack and LARGE rooftop tent (I realize the added upper weight is contributing to my bobblehead feeling, but what's the best remedy for this).
We love to camp as a family of four, but driving this thing is getting to the point where it almost feels dangerous.
I have also a Teraflex high-steer drag kit and Teraflex ball joints.
A few recommendations from a shop in Michigan:
Tech Notes:
Play in tie rod ends (I did not notice this, just checked it)
High steer drag link w/ low track bar (FIXED by me)
Front axle out of center 1/2"
Slight play in steering box (didn't really notice an issue here either)
Caster @ 2 degrees, should be between 6 - 8 degrees (shouldn't the post-lift alignment have caught and fixed this?)
Sway bar links @16 degrees (is this good or bad?)
Has MetalCloak 2.5" lift, track bar in front, end links, upper arms adjustable
Any advice on any or all of these things would be great! I don't have a ton of money, so would love to tackle the biggest issues first to improve driveability).
no heat on driver's side - possible clogged heater core (maybe air in HC since rad is leaking)
caster at 2° - YIKES....shorten those upper arms. don't think you have lower arms. most normal shops won't do this since there is no factory adjustment. if it was a real 4WD shop they should have. with a factory axle just shoot for 4 to 4.5° (factory is 4.2°)
clunk when changing forward/backward direction - double check torque on all suspension bolts. the times I've had a clunk like that when changing momentum direction it was an undertorqued control arm bolt.
sway bar links - too long IMO. want that sway bar just barely angled up from flat.
YIKES is right with those caster numbers. Just improving caster numbers will give you back that sense of security in the steering and on-highway performance. Don't know how long you have had the terraflex ball joints, but they might need a half turn adjustment and re-greasing especially the lower ball joints. TerraFlex also sells a kit for high mis-aligment repenza joint for the front drive shaft which is less than $200 (cheaper than new drive shaft). Others can join in here but I believe you will not need a new drive shaft with a 2.5" lift. Fix the drive shaft you have - should be good.
no heat on driver's side - possible clogged heater core (maybe air in HC since rad is leaking)
caster at 2° - YIKES....shorten those upper arms. don't think you have lower arms. most normal shops won't do this since there is no factory adjustment. if it was a real 4WD shop they should have. with a factory axle just shoot for 4 to 4.5° (factory is 4.2°)
clunk when changing forward/backward direction - double check torque on all suspension bolts. the times I've had a clunk like that when changing momentum direction it was an undertorqued control arm bolt.
sway bar links - too long IMO. want that sway bar just barely angled up from flat.
Yeah, I knew about needing to replace the radiator... such a massive difference in price from the plastic/aluminum ones to the all aluminum ones.... considering just going with the Mishimoto OE replacement (plastic sided) one. Apparently I need to pick up one of those magnetic angle tools so I can properly set that caster!
I have watched a handful of videos and everyone seems to differ on the sway bar positioning, but at this point, I'll try anything to improve the ride with the LEAST spend I can.
I think I found the clank - my driver's side sway bar link was loose at the top. I went to tighten it and determined that somehow, the threads are stripped on it...