So excited about my nice new lift...I posted around a few other places, but haven't gotten a real concrete answer, so here goes.

I just got my 4" Superlift kit for a 2dr 6spd X (3.21 gears). It has springs, shocks, adj front track bar, bump stops, and brake relocation brackets, along with a bunch of bolts, and a cam bolt assembly...
Funds aren't great right now, so I have some time between now and when I actually get the tires and wheels and lift installed. In that time, I plan on getting Currie adj lower front arms, so I will not need the cam bolts, and the dual Rough Country stabilizer for the steering. I know driveshafts are an issue on a 2 dr with 4" of lift, will this matter right off the bat or will I have a decent amount of time to drive around before the boot rips or whatever happens happens?

What else should I consider right away before putting on the lift, new 315/75R16 (35s) and 16x8 ProComps?

Let me know any suggestions as I will be accruing parts over the next couple weeks. Thanks.

 

Man, I'm happy for you, but their customer service sucks! And when they screw up...they will never admit it.

 

Couple of JKs running around here with the Superlift and no complaints yet about the lift, although their shocks are a bit rough...

It sounds like you are headed down the right path. How soon you need the drive shafts will be a factor of whether you wheel or not. I can tell you firsthand that the front boot will tear the first time you really flex it out on the front end (2-door front shaft is the same as the 4-door). The rear... I can only go by what I have heard, but I wouldn't plan on it lasting very long if you wheel it. However, to put the rear driveshaft on you will also need at least one set of the rear control arms to get the pinion angle set correctly again.

What I did is to get it lifted with the front lowers and then drive it for a while. You will eventually have to replace the shafts, but I got 8k miles and a couple of trips wheeling before having to swap out the front shaft. I'm not in a big hurry yet on the rear, but my limo has a bit longer wheelbase!

 

The driveshafts will work for now but dont forget to upgrade before its too late. The parts will ware more quickly due to the angle.

 

So at the very least, I will be getting lower front arms before this kit goes on.

Is an adj rear track bar also a good idea or will it be fine with just the bracket for a while? And once I get the bracket on, will I still use it with an adj rear track bar?

What is a drop pitman arm and do I need one of those also?

 

Thier customer service is awsome. The track bar bracket is ok alone. The adjustable bar is stonger and adds fine tuning. With thier rear adj. track bar you will need the bracket still. There is a new rear track bar bracket you can buy available from them also. It's part of the Mopar Parts version of the kit sold at your Jeep dealer and is available seperatly. I'll have one on very soon and take a pic for you. You do not need a drop pitman arm unless you use a track bar bracket in the front. Your 1st gear takeoffs are going to be like your towing a trailer all the time with 35's. But other than that you'll be ok. Say goodbye to 5 and 6th.. .lol.

Good luck with the Jeep. I've been wheeling my 4" superlift kit since July and am very very happy with it. I've traded Jeeps with 6 other lift kits and have to say Superlift springs with Bilstien shocks is the nicest thing I've been in. The owners of the others agreed.. .even the guy that spent 3 times more money... and got outflexed by a less expensive kit with all stock control arms. If you decide to save on the lower fronts for a while and buy your new drive shafts... that might be the way to go if your going to wheel it. The cams aren't as bad as everyone says... just have the alignment shop do the alignment and then tack weld the washers in place. When you get your adjustable control arms... then you can just add from there for more caster.

 

I just put their 4" lift with the Bilstein shocks on this weekend. 08 Rubi auto 2 door. I found that my front driveshaft rests on the transmission skid plate cross member at full droop. Has anyone else experienced this or know what the problem is?

The kit included a limiting strap kit not included in the regular instruction. I installed it at the specified shock extension length but found that they stretched an inch and half at full droop, axle unsupported. Remounted them so that the shock extension was a quarter inch less than specified but there is still a half inch of drive shaft interference with the cross member.

The good news is that the cross member limits the driveshaft angle at just the point where the CV joint is getting into the boot. The bad news is that it will saw the axle in half if I high center and the front axle goes full droop.

Any Ideas?

 

I notched my tranny skid and also used 4 grade 8 washers to drop the tranny skid and crossmember to by me some time. I never ripped the boot, but I also took the clamp off and used a zip tie on it because once the frt articulates to the side, that clamp nob will hit the tranny pan on auto's. The best thing to do is get an aftermarket shaft, they are smaller in diameter and will save you allotta grief.

 

You have a 2-dr, your on borrowed time with that much lift, rear uppers , new frt lowers and 2 new driveshafts should be on your next have list. Good luck and congrats on your kit, it pretty damn good for the price.

 

Notched the skid. The straps are to save the shocks. Only the Bilstiens require them.