I have a 2012 jku rubi auto w 3.73. I have my sights set on a few things after poking around.


-Rock Krawler 3.5" Max Travel with bilstein 5100's(seems most complete and practical (considered similar teraflex as well))

-je reel or coast 1310 front ds

-35x 12.50 wrangler mt/r or 315/70/17 duratracs on stock wheels with spidertrax spacers (stick w/ 35's with axle durabilty in mind)

-afe y pipe (seems requisite with lift)

-evo protek skid system (oil pan holes aren't good, and I have had them from inside and outside factors)

-gusset and sleeve front axle(evo)

-cromo shafts for the front(brand?) I like the RCV but the cost/ benefit is not there for me.

-4.56 gears

Any input on this is appreciated. I'm looking at different bumpers, winches and rock sliders as well but they aren't as crucial to performance as the above in my mind. I feel like i'm missing a few things but oh well....


Thanks

PS

Spotted a 6.1 Hemi silver JKU today near my place, Will try to sneak a pic.

 

i went with the coast 1350 front drive shaft and will be getting a matching rear when i get the funds. i know that the drive shaft will not fail and if they do it will take alot to do it.

 

I am planning a similar setup (RK 3.5" long arm X-factor), 37" wheels and I am still not sure if I need the dirveshaft or no. I actually called RK and they are telling me that there is no need for the driveshaft. Many folks here are saying that there IS need for a 1310 front driveshaft... I am really confused. Is this because stock part will not fit at all or because it will fail earlier (in this case, I don't mind waiting till it fails and spend the $450 then). Thoughts ?

 

If you have a 4 door, auto and lifted 3" and +, yes you need new front drive shaft. If you have a manual trans, you are good to go.

 

The stock drive shaft is big enough to hit the auto trans when lifted 3" or more at max flex. Thats why you need an aftermarket drive shaft like the coast 1310 or 1350, they are smaller and heavy. But if you just drive on road, you are good to go, sooner you hit the trail, the articulation well cause that problem.

 

With a 2012, you will definately need a new front drive shaft. And if you replace the front drive shaft, you should't need the AFE y-pipe.

 

The Y pipe and the EVO trans skid don't play well together.

 

And you need to ditch the stock shaft if you have a 4 door with 3 + inch of lift becausr from what I experienced the part of the driveshaft that goes into the transfer case has a rubber boot and the angle that it gets put at can cause it to tear, spits grease all underneath and makes taking it.off.a big ole bitch lol

 

If you want to save money I would hold off on the gear change. I went to very heavy 33s with 3.73s on my 12 and I couldn't even tell! I would suggest you invest in a procal and reset everything and if that doesn't please you then regear. In my opinion the gear change is a waste of money unless you get 37s. To be honest if your going to make all the axle changes and stuff already I don't see why you arnt going to 37s anyway.