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Not towing anything here, but with spare and loaded down(hardtop plus 4-500lbs in the rear) mine sits level with 19-59 springs. Take all this off and she has about an inch of rake. The springs are stiffer, but they don't handle a lot of weight.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JLsJK (Post 3851707)

It depends on the numbers you install. I'm pretty sure if you put 59 or 60 in the rear you will have a little rake. But if you put the longest ones(19) on the front, when you tow(depending on towing weights) you may be nose up. If I were going to tow often I would put 17/60 and if your going to put a winch on the front I would put 19/60. I've swapped springs 3 times. Twice front and rear, once just front. I ended up with 19-59. I prefer having the rake. That's my suggestion. What exactly do you have now?

I'm not sure what I have, but I'm certain that the springs are the softest ones you can get, because my jeep didn't have a tow package or a hard top and is a 2 door. I can look this afternoon when I go wheeling (it just snowed again and my buddy and I are gonna go play).

The thing is, I'm also building bumpers this summer…so I don't know how heavy they will be, and I realize that also affects the weight distribution. So, I don't think it would be a bad thing to go ahead an get the stiffer springs, since the weight of the bumpers will affect the ride height (not building stubbies, mid width bumpers are more my style). Sometime down the road, a winch will be added.

I should also clarify, my jeep isn't our main tow vehicle, my dad's 98 grand cherokee is. But when his jeep breaks down, mine is the backup, and it has been (I actually had to tow his jeep with the boat attached a few miles to the next exit when his water pump pulley seized and shredded his serpentine belt, causing his jeep to overheat). So, I don't do a lot of towing, but it does occasionally happen, usually when we need to get a couple trailers full of wood or something for the basement or whatever project he's working on.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JLsJK (Post 3851715)

Hmm, so about 600 lbs in the rear will drop the back end about an inch with 19-59 springs?

This picture shows there's not much rake when mildly loaded. So carefully choose based on what you'll carry. I think I gave you pretty good numbers.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gforce! (Post 3851721)

Hmm, so about 600 lbs in the rear will drop the back end about an inch with 19-59 springs?

That and hardtop for sure

Quote:

Originally Posted by planman (Post 3851692)

That is why I only swapped the front springs. I didn't want stiffer or longer rear springs.

Gotchya, so since I'm just trying to compensate for weight, would it be a good idea to go with just a leveling kit or a bb?

Quote:

Originally Posted by JLsJK (Post 3851725)

That and hardtop for sure

Thanks for the info, man :thumbsup::beer:

Quote:

Originally Posted by rubijorge (Post 3851264)

thx for reply. actually the more I look at tire charts BFG 255/80R17 KM2's are the same width on stock rubi rim as the 255/75R17 KM stock tire but they are 1.2" bigger in dia. (33.3 vs 32.1). seems like I shld be able to run these w/o any spacers and poss stock flares? they are however E vs C so they may be too stiff?(rated over 1000lb higher per tire @ 121 vs 111). would prob need to run em lower pressure to get a decent ride which would negate the increase in dia. and have the tire nanny complaining on the dash. prob not worth the mismatch in vehicle/tire. seems jeep and bfg did a good job matching the stock tire to its intended use. hmm seems no matter what I think of changing it will affect 3 more things!! :doh:

Having had these (255/80-17 KM-2) on my stock rims for almost 3 years I can say that the toad ride was not overly harsh and I never rubbed them off road. As soon as I went wider (taller too, but it was the width that caused the issue) I started rubbing in front. You will need to lift and move the tire out or flat fenders and move tire out. I had to trim my air dam a bit too. Depending on the width you may be able to lift, trim and adjust the steering stops to prevent the rub on the track bar arms. I don't have experience with a full 12-1/2" wide tire or with full 35" tall tires so cannot say what needs done then (next set of tires maybe I'll find out), but from what everyone here says that step to 35x12.5 is more than just clearance as the steering stresses and the weight effects on the axle tubes, ball joints, stabilizer etc will need to be addresses along with gearing if (like me) you have a 3.8.

Quote:

Originally Posted by planman (Post 3851545)

Having experienced it myself, skip the load range E tires on a 2 door.

Instead, run load range C Goodyear MTR Kevlar 35x12.50R17s and use Spidertrax wheel spacers if you want to use stock wheels and run 35s.

If you need to add 1" rear extended bumpstops, it really isn't that big a deal.

what was the issue? too stiff? I see they put BFG 265/70R17E KM2 on the 2013 rubi 10th anniversary which surprised me as a stock tire. its wider but smaller dia than mine. that's why I figured the 255/80E would be good choice. same width bigger dia. for the factory to put an E on I figured its ok?

Quote:

Originally Posted by zstairlessone (Post 3852185)

are you saying you ran 255/80/17 KM2 with no rubbing with no spacers/flat fenders? it looks like being only 1" dia bigger and same width they would need no mods? or am I wrong? what pressure did you run on road (toad)lol.