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The width and height of the tire come into play for the front and steering, when you turn the wheel to full lock a taller tire will hit the frame and sway bar. You will also have to take into account the axle shift for your set up. As you droop the front axle the axle will shift to the driver side so the passenger side wheel will be closer to the frame. For example a 4" lift that uses a adjustable track bar at the factory mount will shift more then a 4" lift that uses a drag link flip. The more angle you have in your links the more axle shift you will get.
You will also get more axle shift while articulating due to your shock length, the more droop you have the more shift you will get. I hope that helps explain the need for less back spacing. |
Thanks for the quick answer.
I appreciate your insight and experience. Saved me from making an expensive mistake. Back to the drawing board... Regards, Jim |
My thoughts on lifts
Ok so I've read a lot, learned a lot and I hope to save a lot. Thanks guys hey thedirtman I live in northwest Indiana I have an 09 rubicon unlimited that is stock. I'd like to build it to handle somthing at Attica.....going to watch ultra 4 this year. As I read it looks like I'll be going with 2.5 in lift 35's and later flat fenders. I've read a lot about spacers or coils... Which should I go with. I'd like it to somewhat retain factory...ride. Or at least be able to drive comfortable on the road since I'll probably trail run it a few times a year. Money is an issue but if a coil lift w shocks is going to grill me better use over the years I'll wait and buy the correct stuff
Also what back spacing for 2.5 lift on 35's. Will I need to change other components w a 2.5. Hoping to keep as much factory stuff as possible. Sent from my I wait for it ...Phone using Tapatalk |
It depends on what you want to do at Badlands, they have everything. Sand dunes, mud pits, wooded trials, creek run, rock crawling. You can hang with most everyone there on a 2.5" lift and some 35's if you can drive. My buddy runs a TJ with that set up and can nearly keep up with me. I would say pucks if you are looking on a budget but if you want longer travel then look into some coils. Depends on if you want to run long travel shocks or not. Come on down to Badlands on May 17th for go topless day if you want to see some bad ass JK's and some great people. I will be there as a spotter and for passenger side ballast.
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Thanks for the quick response!
Sent from my I wait for it ...Phone using Tapatalk |
Originally Posted by planman
(Post 3706253)
Dirtman has some really good info here. I'd contribute an example: With flat flares and minimal trimming of the rear fender well pinch seam, 35" tires can be run on 4.5" or less backspaced wheels with stock front bumpstops and about 2" rear extended bumpstops. So, you could run shocks that measure up to about 15" collapsed in the front and about 17.5" collapsed in the rear without bottoming them out. To gain more than stock articulation (flex), you'd run as long a shock as your springs would permit, as long as the collapsed length of the shock was at or less than the 15"/17.5". With the same flat flares and rear pinch seam trimming, 37" tires can be run with 1.25" front and 2.5" rear extended bumpstops. So, as an example for someone wanting more articulation (flex) with a mild lift of 2.5"-3": You can run OME 11.5" travel shocks (16" collapsed and 27.5" extended) with 1.25" front extended bumpstops and longer front brakelines--and longer front swaybar links if you run them off road with a Rubi disconnect system. You can run EVO RockStar (or similar) rear skids/shock relocation brackets that raise the rear lower shock and swaybar link mounting points about 1.5" with 11.5" travel OME shocks (16.5" collapsed and 28" extended), 2.5" rear extended bumpstops, longer brakelines, and longer swaybar links. With this setup, you would need springs that can handle 11.5" travel without unseating. The rear coils would need lower coil retainers. OME HD springs can handle it. Metalcloak and Rock Krawler 2.5" springs should be able to handle it. With 11.5" travel at the shock, you will want a flex joint (spherical joint) at atleast one end of at least the lower control arms. The front axle side upper control arm bushings in the axle will last longer if the front upper arms have a joint at the frame side instead of a bushing. That setup, with appropriate adjustable trackbars, will RTI 1000 on a 2 dr JK with close to stock wheelbase. The setup significantly increases articulation (flex) over stock because the combination of shock lengths and rear mounting points, extended bumpstops, longer brakelines, longer swaybar links, longer uncompressed spring lengths, etc. allows the full use of 11.5" travel shocks. I haven't ever measured the actual usable shock travel with the stock setup, but I would be surprised if more than 7"-8" shock travel is useable.
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IF you want to remove bump stop for up travel you are going to have to run flat fenders and do some body trimming.
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Question to "The Dirtman" :)
Hi, this is what I have: - 2010 JKU Sport - 285/70R17 Toyo Open Country AT2 (P) - 1.5" G2 wheel spacers - 3/4" Daystar coil spacers front and back - Original Moab wheels Everything else is stock (no bumper, no winch....and it will probably stay like that) I'm looking for something maximum 2" total because I have my old mother in law in a wheel chair, also more then 2" will not fit in the garage. I need a lift, 90% city driving and 10% for very mild off road, but still want the jeep to do the job if something more radical come my way. I don't really care about a bit of rake (front lower then the back) but for sure I don't want the back to be lower. Like you see in the pictures, the front tire is very close to the fender. $ is very important too. I was looking at: 1) Teraflex spacers leveling kit (2" front and 1" back) but was scared that the front could be higher then the back. I think my front is 3/4" lower then the back. I could also just put the 1" spacers all around?!?!?........160$ Canadian 2) AEV 2" spacer kit. To me it look like a complete kit, but it look similar to the TF one but more $........300$ Canadian 3) TF performance spring kit (2" springs front and 1" springs back). With this kit, I would take off the front Daystar 3/4" coil spacers that I have now but would leave the 3/4"'s in the back so the front would be 2" and back 1.75". Only thing that's kind of make me rethink about the springs is that there's a lot of peoples that say that they sag pretty fast (1/2"-1")?!?!?........450$ Canadian Any other suggestions???? Thanks a lot for your time :) Stephane |
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Originally Posted by TheDirtman
(Post 3869031)
IF you want to remove bump stop for up travel you are going to have to run flat fenders and do some body trimming.
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