So after finding a leak from my stock driveshaft, instead of just repairing the boot, I decided, well since I plan to go bigger in the future may as well "upgrade" to the double cardan shaft. This decision was made after another forum member mentioned them and I looked into them a bit.

Got the drive shafts today and in the install instructions it mentions that adjustable control arms are required. These are G2 DS's and not require an SYE. Since I am at stock height and I just want to get this on the road after it has been down for a few weeks, is adjustable control arms an ABSOLUTE NECESSITY right now? Hard to find data online with DC DS and stock height. I plan to lift later but I have these parts NOW to get it back on the road.

2016 JKU Rubicon, stock height/wheels.

 

I have no idea what that means. So, take this response with a grain of salt. However, I did install a Tom Woods front driveshaft on my JK years ago and proper alignment is necessary to avoid vibration when driving (and the OEM rear driveshaft is going along just fine at 277,000 miles: Don't fix it if it ain't broke.). That alignment is different for an aftermarket vs the Rzeppa joint OEM shaft. However, after the install, I found it unnecessary to re-align my (already installed for a lift) adjustable front LCAs. I had already adjusted them from stock specs to return steering feel, so must have lucked out with a setting that was compatible with the new DS. Anyway, here's a quote from a good article from Tom Woods ...

There's much more in the article ...

https://4xshaft.com/blogs/general-te...veshaft-angles

 

G2 is the maker, DS=drive shaft SYE=Slip yoke eliminator. JK's dont have slip yokes on the transfer case so no need to eliminated it. Thats a TJ thing.
Yes you should have adjsutable control arms when running a double cardon aftermarket driveshaft for proper alignment.

 

Agree with Dirtman on this.

 

Can you expand on this, cuz I can't see anyone out driving around with their pinion pointed at the TC like in a perfect world scenario. While the DS would be ideal, the caster would be crap on these factory axles. I also see very few people running a DS with just two simple u-joints (not DC). With this factory lift height it seems OP is already better off than most lifted jeeps running a DC.

 

Sorry guys i am really new at all of this suspension stuff. I have worked on engines inside and out but I have never had a vehicle like a Jeep before where suspension is a huge factor of ownership.

I am returning the DC shafts mostly because the arrived damaged and the customer support left more questions than answers. I will just repair my current one using the repair kit. In the future when I lift the jeep I will re-visit new drive shafts.

 

You should not run a double cardon up front, just a single u-joint on top and bottom with the factory axle. Aftermarket caster corrected axles can get away with a Double Cardon shaft.

Give this a good read. https://4xshaft.com/blogs/general-te...veshaft-angles

 

Yes, I have been through that link more than several times in the past hence the question, cuz I'd submit that most folks replacing their front DS are putting a DC shaft on. You may say that isn't right, but I'm questioning why it is just about everything you find on the market as far as front driveshafts for a JK is a DC shaft.....even on Tom Wood's site -

https://4xshaft.com/collections/jk-jeep

And in their description of their front DS products they even say this -



And the initial answer might be "that is why you need adjustable arms", but that then would take me back to there's no way to point your pinion at the TC without running such low caster it would suck....even with an aftermarket axle with additional caster. (I realize I'm running in circles)

I'm not trying to argue, just get to the bottom of this cuz I know in a perfect world yes, with a DC DS that pinion should be pointed at the TC, but hardly anyone has their set up like that and most are still running a DC shaft. I also know very few folks are running aftermarket axles with extra caster. I've got 10* caster built in on my front (running ~5) and the pinion still isn't pointed directly at the TC. My DC shaft seems to work just fine. In fact, I've never run across anyone saying their DC shaft was causing issues. Just trying to get to the bottom of it all.

 

Bear in mind that I already had the front LCAs for years to correct the caster and return steering feel after the lift. Upon receiving the Tom Woods DS my friend who was helping and I looked at the "by-the-book" adjustment of pinon angle and weren't particularly happy with that. We called Tom Woods and they said it was necessary. My friend, a pretty experienced mechanic and fabricator, suggested I take it out for a test drive for a few days and see how it felt without readjusting the caster. So I did. That was a few years ago and I've never had a problem with vibration, and have about 100K miles on the rig with the new driveshaft.