TheDirtman

Depending on your lift height and set up you may not need to spend the extra $100 on a double carton shaft. Most JKer's put them on but don't really need them and is's nice not to deal with pulling the shaft to grease that damn ball.

resharp001

I'm not asking out of curiousity, but can a non CV DS make it on a 3" lift? Even if that jeep never went off road, wouldn't it be under a shit-ton of stress/binding under the first real articulation? It seems you'd be crossing your fingers just having it survive with no drive-line vibes on the pavement alone. I've never done it, so am really just curious. I could see this maybe being a pavement only jeep on <2.5" actual net lift. Where is that line in the sand that a non-CV joint stops being an option?

TheDirtman

You have to check your angles, which most of the JK crowd won't do, hence buy a DC shaft and throw it on. Too many variables to say yes it works for 2.5 and not 3". Shock length, actual lift height, not advertised, caster corrected axle, how you drive it. Those with caster corrected axle like the pro rock unlimited or people that use offset ball joints to correct caster should be able to run a standard driveshaft at 3". Those running 3" of lift with factory control arms and 10" or less travel in the shocks may very well be able to run a standard driveshaft but should check their running angles (ride height) .

dynadave

TheDirtman

Prices will vary depending on the axle connection. Some will change out the flanges for yolks and give you the ability to fix a broken u-joint quick and easy since you can buy a new u-joint just about anywhere they sell car parts. Some will use the factory flange which tends to run on the cheaper side. The flange is much stronger but break a joint and you are done unless you have a spare with you.

JeepJeremy