I own a stock 2014 jk unlimited 4 door sport. I'm settled that I definitely want evo Plush coil springs. I want a 2" lift however they only sell 2" front springs but no 2" rear springs.

So my question is will my geometry be ok if I get 2" coils up front and add a 1" spacer then 3" coils at the rear and correct my rear geometry with longer rear sway bar links, rear track bar bracket, extended brake lines and bump stop spacers?

Only reason I don't want to go with 3" coils up front is because I don't want to mess with the geometry too much as it will get expensive. I plan on putting 33.8" all terrains

 

You could simply install the 2" up front and add a 1" spacer to the rear which would give you a level ride as you typically have an inch or so of rake in the factory set up. On a 2014 you should not need extended brake lines. Curious why not use OME coils? Their no load coils are 2" and ride nice. Their shocks are good as well. I would think it would be easier and cheaper for you being over there.

 

I agree with dirtman (if you haven't figured it out yet he is an expert on lifts) just get the full OME setup. It's not that much more for the coils.

 

The Dirtman, thank you so much for your help and advice! I've just placed an order on 2" OME coils front and rear and Rancho shocks.

Also here's a screenshot of the other bits I've placed an order on. can you tell me if I've got something here I don't need? I believe I need to purchase rear sway bar links as well

 

On a 2014, you don't need the brake line brackets on the front, just remove the factory lower bracket on the spring perch (make sure you remove the bracket from the line also) and let them hang. (There are videos out there showing how i.e. Teraflex lift install video). If you're going to spend $70 on that bracket set, I would suggest just getting extended length rear stainless steel lines (several different brands out there for around $100). Easy to install, and then it will be done once and over with, rather than having brackets now and changing them out for longer lines after you stretch a rear line while out wheeling. (Ask me how I figured that one out).

Otherwise looks like you've got most of the basics covered. Others will chime in as well I'm sure.

Happy Jeeping!

 

You make a good point tjkamp! I'll just get extended rear brake lines. I also found out that I don't need rear Sway bar links if I get the sway bar drop bracket

 

A couple things I would add to your shopping list.
1. Caster Correction: Geo Correction Brackets (Rancho) or Adjustable Lower Control arms. Without some form of caster correction when lifting 2-3inches, your steering and ride quality going over bumps will suffer.
2. HD adjustable front Track Bar: After lifting your stock front TB will be too short. This will cause the front axle to not be centered and to be pulled further to the driver's side about 1in. That's also one of the reasons you are adding rear track bar relocation brackets, it corrects that problem in the rear. Similar needs to be done for the front. The shifting of the front axle is not a big problem, but the more important aspect is in getting the "HD" (ie stronger) TB in the front. I'm assuming since you are lifting, then you will be installing larger tires. The additional weight of the larger tires will cause the stock TB to flex when you are steering with those larger tires. That will translate to a loose steering feel and potentially lead to death wobble due to the TB flexing. You may be ok, with the 34s you're looking to add, but still worth getting in my opinion.

Also, I don't believe you will need those rear sway bar drop brackets.

 

No need to get longer rear brake lines just get a $14 teraflex relocation bracket. Also no way would I spend $1722 for 10A bumper. I have one on my recon and that is ludicrous. If spending that kind of money get an AEV or ARB .

 

Yep, a front adjustable track bar. I would run it with the lift on to see if it feels you need caster correction unless you are paying for install then you might want to just go ahead and do drop brackets or lower adjustable control arms like Redroll suggests.

 

Yea I'm gona call tomorrow first thing in the morning to exchange it for the aev I think, though it's going to set me back an extra 385 Australian dollars. Imported American made bumpers aren't cheap! I would get the arb one but I prefer the look of the aev more