Need help--Bottoming out after lift
12-31-2007, 03:54 AM
#21
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I know, thats what I keep tellin her. We did some blues in the afternoon (she didnt know they were blues until we finished lol) and she got through them no problem. She is just thinkin about it too much! Maybe we'll do greens again in the morning and then meet up in the afternoon with you guys.
12-31-2007, 06:00 AM
#22
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i had the same problem with my procomp 1.75" lift. i think the bumpstops are assuming ur gonna run 35s. i run 33s so rubbing under full stuffage isnt much of an issue. just cut the bumpstops down to about 1" longer than the stock one since 33s are only half an inch taller than stock tires. but if ur gonna upgrade to 35s in the future, you may just want to put the stock bumpstop back in for now.
12-31-2007, 10:33 AM
#24
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Personally I see nothing wrong with your bump stop. It has a few inches of travel before contact. After that the stop should compress some more to give you a bit more travel. With your lift you likely should have more up-travel, but it is not a major issue.
I think OMEs plan with their lift is to allow reasonable up-travel over stock, which is why their kit does not add bump stop length (or much droop). I agree with this plan for a road going Jeep. I will happily give up a inch or two of droop for an inch of two of travel that I can use on every bump I hit. If I was a rock crawler I would think different. I get about 20 miles of rocks for every 15,000 miles on my Jeep so I want travel I can use.
The bump stops are really there for three things. One prevent shock over compression and damage. Two, prevent the tires from rubbing/hitting off road. Three prevent coil bind by jamming all the coils together. Since OME says you can run these shocks with the stock bump stops I would put the stock stop back in. Then carefully test in a controlled environment for tire rub. The poly stops are likely much harder than the stock ones, so that may be part of your harshness on sharp bumps.
Two other comments. You definitely can hit the stops on a speed bump. Most stock vehicles only have a few inches to the stops and hit them constantly. Granted the hits are soft and don't slam.
As far as the "I would be pissed" response posts, I'm glad the OP didn't express her self that way. This is a "put together" kit. OME published specs for the parts, so anyone should know what they are getting before they put out the cash. There is way too much of this "blame everyone but me" when our modified Jeeps go wrong.
The OP is trying to work out a legitimate problem with her Jeep, not blame anyone.
I think OMEs plan with their lift is to allow reasonable up-travel over stock, which is why their kit does not add bump stop length (or much droop). I agree with this plan for a road going Jeep. I will happily give up a inch or two of droop for an inch of two of travel that I can use on every bump I hit. If I was a rock crawler I would think different. I get about 20 miles of rocks for every 15,000 miles on my Jeep so I want travel I can use.
The bump stops are really there for three things. One prevent shock over compression and damage. Two, prevent the tires from rubbing/hitting off road. Three prevent coil bind by jamming all the coils together. Since OME says you can run these shocks with the stock bump stops I would put the stock stop back in. Then carefully test in a controlled environment for tire rub. The poly stops are likely much harder than the stock ones, so that may be part of your harshness on sharp bumps.
Two other comments. You definitely can hit the stops on a speed bump. Most stock vehicles only have a few inches to the stops and hit them constantly. Granted the hits are soft and don't slam.
As far as the "I would be pissed" response posts, I'm glad the OP didn't express her self that way. This is a "put together" kit. OME published specs for the parts, so anyone should know what they are getting before they put out the cash. There is way too much of this "blame everyone but me" when our modified Jeeps go wrong.
The OP is trying to work out a legitimate problem with her Jeep, not blame anyone.
01-02-2008, 09:34 AM
#25
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Personally I see nothing wrong with your bump stop. It has a few inches of travel before contact. After that the stop should compress some more to give you a bit more travel. With your lift you likely should have more up-travel, but it is not a major issue.
I think OMEs plan with their lift is to allow reasonable up-travel over stock, which is why their kit does not add bump stop length (or much droop). I agree with this plan for a road going Jeep. I will happily give up a inch or two of droop for an inch of two of travel that I can use on every bump I hit. If I was a rock crawler I would think different. I get about 20 miles of rocks for every 15,000 miles on my Jeep so I want travel I can use.
The bump stops are really there for three things. One prevent shock over compression and damage. Two, prevent the tires from rubbing/hitting off road. Three prevent coil bind by jamming all the coils together. Since OME says you can run these shocks with the stock bump stops I would put the stock stop back in. Then carefully test in a controlled environment for tire rub. The poly stops are likely much harder than the stock ones, so that may be part of your harshness on sharp bumps.
Two other comments. You definitely can hit the stops on a speed bump. Most stock vehicles only have a few inches to the stops and hit them constantly. Granted the hits are soft and don't slam.
As far as the "I would be pissed" response posts, I'm glad the OP didn't express her self that way. This is a "put together" kit. OME published specs for the parts, so anyone should know what they are getting before they put out the cash. There is way too much of this "blame everyone but me" when our modified Jeeps go wrong. The OP is trying to work out a legitimate problem with her Jeep, not blame anyone.
I think OMEs plan with their lift is to allow reasonable up-travel over stock, which is why their kit does not add bump stop length (or much droop). I agree with this plan for a road going Jeep. I will happily give up a inch or two of droop for an inch of two of travel that I can use on every bump I hit. If I was a rock crawler I would think different. I get about 20 miles of rocks for every 15,000 miles on my Jeep so I want travel I can use.
The bump stops are really there for three things. One prevent shock over compression and damage. Two, prevent the tires from rubbing/hitting off road. Three prevent coil bind by jamming all the coils together. Since OME says you can run these shocks with the stock bump stops I would put the stock stop back in. Then carefully test in a controlled environment for tire rub. The poly stops are likely much harder than the stock ones, so that may be part of your harshness on sharp bumps.
Two other comments. You definitely can hit the stops on a speed bump. Most stock vehicles only have a few inches to the stops and hit them constantly. Granted the hits are soft and don't slam.
As far as the "I would be pissed" response posts, I'm glad the OP didn't express her self that way. This is a "put together" kit. OME published specs for the parts, so anyone should know what they are getting before they put out the cash. There is way too much of this "blame everyone but me" when our modified Jeeps go wrong.
The OP is trying to work out a legitimate problem with her Jeep, not blame anyone.The bumpstops were to long, and I ended up trimming about 3/4"-1" off of them. I then took the Jeep out and flexed it with my swaybar disconnected. It looks about right now. I could possibly even trim off another 1/2" or less, but for now I think I will leave it as is. Trimming the bumpstops eliminated the problem I was experiencing.
01-02-2008, 10:05 AM
#26
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JCKid...
I have a Daystar 1.75" BB as well, with the exact same bumpstops and the exact same symptom. I don't think they even sell different length bumpstops. My old XJ rode like a tank, so even with the slamming effect, the JK is still smoother!
I have a Daystar 1.75" BB as well, with the exact same bumpstops and the exact same symptom. I don't think they even sell different length bumpstops. My old XJ rode like a tank, so even with the slamming effect, the JK is still smoother!
01-02-2008, 12:36 PM
#27
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Jckid -- Dumb question ... but what did you use to cut down your bumpstops? Just had the same 1 3/4 lift installed and am experiencing the same problems. Don't want to pay again to reinstall the stock bumps. Thanks!
01-02-2008, 02:41 PM
#28
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i had to cut my bumpstops down as will, about and inch and a half, i did it with a sawzall and cut the bottom of the bumpstop off just about the last line on it and then jacked the jeep up with my hi-lift at the bumper to let the spring extend then got it out of there by sticking a screw driver through the center of it and forcing it out, its just rubber -- same of the other side and now it rides like a LIMO -- they are just too long thats all and i did this and have been all over my property muddin, and down to Houston which is two hours away and have had no problems, so CHOP 'EM OFF !!!
01-02-2008, 03:32 PM
#29
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I actually just used a cheap little hand saw that I found in the garage. It nearly looks like a knife (super serrated), but has a little bigger handle. The bumpstops have indented rings about every 3/4". I just lined the saw up with the bottom ring and started cutting. I was able to do it with the coil spring in place, and I didn't even have to jack up the Jeep or anything. The piece I cut out was small enough to get out of the springs. I figured it was best to cut a little off to start with. I flexed up the Jeep afterwards, and it looks pretty good. No bottoming out since.
01-03-2008, 03:15 PM
#30
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Just wanted to thank you for the quick replies and help. I cut of about .5-.75" and it definitely helped, but using a handheld knife was a workout to say the least. I will probably take it in to get another .5" cut off tomorrow 'cause I noticed a significant difference being able to bounce around w/out bottoming out. Thanks again.
Last edited by jesterfix; 01-03-2008 at 05:11 PM.