Need opinions on which lift for new jku
 

Just traded in our jk for a '16 jku sport and I'm starting to research a lift and tires as this will be step 1 to our build. I had a 3" bds coil lift on my JK and did NOT like the ride quality. Sure bds has a great warranty and it felt tough on the trail but lets be real, my wife and I won't be on the trails that much with our new 4 door.
We want either a 2.5-3" lift. I want to know is there any certain kit or brand that maintains a good on road feel???? Also, if we do a 2.5 and 35's what's an average we can expect to spend and what all is needed to go into this?? Lift, tires, wheels... Brake lines? Drive shafts? Regearing?
Thanks for the help!

I love my metalcloak game changer 3.5" lift. It rides so awesome and talk about street performance I can corner now!

I am a little bigger with flat fenders and 37s but 35s would go great with stock fenders.

If you want stock feel and handling throw on a 2" budget boost (spacer lift) and cut your fenders/air dam to fit 35's. Everything will feel like stock, because it is.

I had an aev 2" kit on my jku before my coilovers. You can do alot with that and 35's. Armor up and you will be fine. My only suggestion is to use shock post extensions instead of the aev relocation brackets.

I'm a big Metal Cloak fan. Those guys have been cool every time I stopped by. Its usually because I'm in a bind and they have everything in stock. I'm running a full set of duroflex control arms on the rear axle of my jeep. They are great.

I cruise 95/ 395/ 495 every month or so and I'm content with my mismatched parts, though it's no stock ride. While I like my rock krawler/ Rancho combo, I wouldn't be opposed to trying aev, synergy, or metalcloak.

Some of your questions are answered in the first sticky on the top of this forum "My thoughts on lifts..."

I think for what you are describing a 2" budget boost would be the ticket.

I plan on getting a Teraflex 2.5 budget boost with shocks for my daily driver.

I've heard a lot of great things about metal cloak as well and really like their 2.5 GC it's just really expensive. So with a budget boost, it just feels like the first time on the trail that shit would break??? We live 2.5 hrs from Rausch Creek and will be going there. Yes I want good ride quality but also something good on the trail with some articulation.

Find a local club and go ride in different jeeps with different brands of lifts. Your asking for opinions it's not going to get you anywhere people are biased when it comes to lifts. Me personally I run a rubi express 2.5 with toyo 35's and keep up with the big boys in my 4 wheel drive club.

articulation is totally dependent upon shock travel and nothing else. All other parts just help make it easier or minimize wear.

Good idea, we will get with Chesapeake jeep club and bug other jeepers for a ride.

Local Jeep shop that has been in business since 1954 and carries just about every lift manufacturer under the sun swears by Metal Cloak.
Say it's the best riding, best handling, no complaints, no warranty returns kit going.
I was already leaning that way, and with their endorsement bit the bullet.
I'm totally satisfied.
It rides a little more firm than stock, but without harshness, corners flat, and runs straight as an arrow. No funny business off road all flexed out, stable, rock solid. Recently got to tear it up in some higher speed washes and unimproved dirt roads (up over 60mph at times... no air or that sort of thing... but hauling along in uneven and rough terrain just the same)... rig was flawless... outside the factory electric nannies cutting in on the fun.
I went with the OME shock version based on years of OME experience in an XJ.
Cannot imagine anyone being displeased with the setup... well, maybe hardcore prerunner types would need more... but they would need more "total rig" than a bolt on setup.

With a 2.5 or 3" lift what else am I looking at? New drive train? I assume we will need to re-gear since it's automatic trans. Any changes to steering or break lines?

At 2.5" on things at RC- yes, you'll want longer lines in the rear. EBay has brand new stainless steel lines, name brand, for $17. I bought two pairs to go with my lift.

Steering doesn't "need" to be addressed, but coming up on 3" you'll be in the drag link flip territory. You'll also need a smaller diameter driveshaft or exhaust spacers with the pentastar motor.


I vote keep it simple with 2.5". Another forum is doing an event at Rausch on May 14th if you want to head up and get a look at what's working where.

My AEV lift 31/2 inch on 33s drives like a dream and way better than stock.
Only lift I've had so not sure I can compare to much but sure read about a lot of crummy ones

Zimmy5280

I have the metalcloak 3.5" lift and I have nothing but good things to say about it. It's firmer than stock but not jarring at all, Just firmer. The jeep feels very stable and corners great. I have only about 6 weeks of driving on the lift now and have only been able to take it on a washed out fire road as far as off road use goes but it did great. I have the complete game changer kit with both adjustable track bars.
I do get a little bump steer with this lift so I am going to be getting the metalcloak high steer kit as well.
I hope this helps.

I had a 2.5" Rock Krawler mid-arm X-factor on my '09. I like the way the ride was and when I traded in for a '14 JKUR I got a 3.5" X-factor and have 37" cooper STT Pros. I debated the metal cloak lift but ultimately went with RK due to cost.

Rockrawler 2.5 or 3.5 with Rancho 9000's adjustables...tire pressure at 29psi or 30psi THE END

i have an EVO kit and rancho 9000. Swapped out my coils for the RK triple rates. Had them installed for less than a week before swapping them back. On road quality is not even close. Almost same height, shocks and all other components exactly the same. Had it aligned and all #s caster, toe, etc were almost exact.

I did the same with the EVO coils and thought the same. Just proves how subjective ride is.

You are both saying you didnt like the ride quality of the EVO coils??

I'm saying I LOVE my ride quality with EVO coils.
Like mentioned above ride quality is subjective.

I thought they were firm. Dunno maybe i expected a super plush ride, but that was not the case.
nothing else was changed, same shocks, same CA's, steering, etc. overall i feel the RK's take bumps a little firmer but overall a softer coil.
FWIW RK has said their coil rates which are close to stock. EVO has never released their rates.

I agree i preferred the rk ride over the evo plush but at the time i had them the rk were very short and the evo were among the longer options out there wich was good for a longer travel setup.

First run were shorter.

Latest RK coils are about the same length

I have the Rubicon Express 3.5" lift. And the mono tube shocks.. Love the ride!

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+1 on metalcloak
 

I don't have a ton of miles on mine but the whole process from purchase to install with metalcloak was great. I put their 1.5 4 dr kit on and I've gotten a ton of compliments on it. Look at their 2.5 -3.5 kits and give them a call! There pretty good on the phone and the quality is there as far as components go. Also worth a mention that they seem to have the most complete kits for your $ when compared to RK and AEV

I am definitely leaning towards metal cloak, just not sure exactly which one. What is everyone's thoughts on shocks?

Also, regearing. Is it necessary?? Again, we have a 16 jku sport.

Agree!!! Mine handles soooo damn good. I find myself going too fast around corner to try and make it break loose..... Haven't yet! Soaks up bumps so smooth!

Also, Read the MC threads. Most state go 3.5" to get that xtra center clearance.

Metal cloak makes great lifts, I love mine. I have the 5100 bilstine shocks and the 3.5 game changer complete kit.
As far as regearing, a thousand people will tell you that they did not regear and there jeep runs great they just don't use 6th gear or overdrive any more...
The truth is that regearing is just important as new tires when you lift.
If you don't regear it puts a lot of strain on the rest of the drive train from the gears to the motor.

I just recently bought a 2013 jkur with 35's and the stock 4:10's
The previous owner told me that it drives great with this setup!
After only a few hundred miles I decided that I need to regear, It completely sucks at interstate speeds.
When I use the cruise control it constantly downshifts at every slight incline and has no power.
That may not bother some people but I can't stand it knowing that it is Taking a toll on my trans.

I hope this helped, and definitely shop around for prices on regearing.
I have gotten prices from $850 labor+parts to $3000 both prices are from shops that I trust to do the work. BTW the parts for my regear using the existing carrier are $400.
If you are going from 3.73 to 4:56 you will need new carriers so it will cost a little more.

Had the RE 3.5 lift on jkur and got the job done swapped out for 3.5 RK X factor love all the flex and highway handling

Attachment 647495

I just bought a new 75th Anniversary and had Jeep install the Mopar 2" lift kit. I don't off road much so it was more important I didn't void my warranty (I assume an aftermarket lift could void major portions of the Jeep). The lif was $2200 installed. I added 17x9 Rockstar II's + 35x12.5x17 Nitto Terra Grapplers and it rides great IMO.

Ok,so regearing may be the way to go... if I want to make sure the trans can handle the new setup. I previously had a 2dr jk on a 3" bds lift and 35" nittos ... manual... and did nottt re-gear and it drove wonderfully. I mean, 6th gear on the freeway didn't do a damn thing.

I was originally leaning towards the AEV Dual Sport but after doing quite a bit of research this is the lift., It comes with Fox shocks. I'll be going with same size tires as you, but likely the BFG KO2's. I think the problem more people haven't looked at this lift in much detail is because it's listed as a 2in lift but it's actually a 2.5-3in lift. Everyone that has installed the Mopar 2in lift has reported just over 3in of lift in the front and just over 2.5in lift in the rear.

Guys

If you are looking to lift your DD on a budget, make sure you get a system you can easily build upon as your off-road needs increase. It happens! LOL. It is like a sickness...

Make sure you address the items that are needed for daily driving, like caster correction etc. so the vehicle handles as good as stock if not better with the right components.

When it comes to judging what systems are best for you, think about how hard you are going to be on your Jeep off-road. There are a lot of good components out there for DD's and some companies that have pretty well tuned suspension systems, but longevity and durability for off-road beatings is where the difference will show...

Good luck with your builds..

RK

I believe that. The car rides much higher than stock. And yes, those are Fox shocks. Here's some photos...lift and before/after.

Attachment 647578Attachment 647579

OME makes great riding lifts.

Another important part of the Mopar 2in lift is that if you have a 2012+ which you do, then the lift is more expensive but it doesn't necessarily have to be. The price difference with the 2012+ Mopar lift solution is that they provide an additional replacement driveshaft and Yoke (+$500). The problem with the 2012+ is that with the exhaust routing, it will interfere with the driveshaft when flexing. All the other lifts in this price range/height/capability provide other less expensive solutions to this same problem or don't include a solution at all. If you want to save some $ on the mopar lift for a 2012+, you can always purchase the less expensive Mopar kit which is the exact same kit but doesn't include the driveshaft and then additionally purchase one of those less expensive solutions to this problem. If you have a 2007-2011, like I do then you purchase the less expensive 2in Mopar lift which doesn't include the replacement driveshaft/yoke.

From Mopar:
So when I compared the AEV Dual Sport XT 2.5" lift to the Mopar 2in lift, I learned the following.
1. The amount of lift height are about the same between both kits, where you're able to use 35" tires on either.
2. You get a much more complete kit with the Mopar lift than the AEV kit for less $ (AEV=$1K, Mopar=$760 w/o drive shaft, $1235 w/driveshaft & Yoke)
3. Both put a focus on maintaining or improving DD on-road comfort performance and are very similar on-road, where the AEV has been described as being a little more "plush" feeling and the Mopar is a bit firmer but both ride well on-road for DD use. So it becomes more of a preference difference. You want it to ride more like a Cadillac(AEV) or a Stock JK(Mopar)?
4. The Mopar lift provides much more flex than the AEV off-road (Mopar Fox shocks have longer extension than the AEV Bilsteins), the AEV sacrifices off-road flex for those plush on-road manners.

I originally had my heart set on the AEV Dual Sport XT 2.5" lift, but when I finally compared it to the Mopar 2in lift, which I previously overlooked because I thought it wouldn't be able to fit 35's, I realized with the Mopar lift I would be getting a better lift for less money, which had good on-road DD performance, while out performing the AEV off-road. Sounded like a win/win to me.

All very good points.

What does RK use for caster correction in their lifts? Here's the options from my current understanding along with some noted pluses and minuses of each.

Caster Correction Options (plus/minuses):
1. Cam Bolts (Very Inexpensive, allow caster adjustment, does not reduce ground clearance/Causes damage that needs additional parts to fix if you later choose to upgrade to a higher height, Not very robust damage on rocks, tend to loose adjustment).
2. Relocation Brackets (Better solution that eliminates minuses of Cam bolts, mid-price economical solution, adjustable for lift upgrade/Reduces ground clearance by about 1in, can be damaged on rocks).
3. Fixed Lower Control Arm replacements (Improved solution over Relo Brackets, does not lose ground clearance, does not lose caster adjustment/ expensive cost at least 2X as relo brackets, no caster adjustment will need to replace if upgrade/raise lift in future).
4. Adjustable Lower Control Arm replacements (Same pluses as fixed LCA, allows caster adjustment, can be further adjusted if upgrade lift/ Most costly solution).
5. Adjustable Upper Control Arm replacements (Slightly lower cost than LCA replacement/Limited adjustment capabilities, likely can't be used if upgrade lift in the future.)