Need some help getting to 37's
Been wheeling for a while, but never hardcore. I frequent the rocks and hill climbs at Rausch Creek in PA. I keep off the pedal and let the gears do the work -- I make it habit to never spin tires to keep the trails nice and to keep my Jeep from exploding. With that in mind, I'm building up to jump from the stock 32's on my 2012 Rubi two door to 37's. Mainly for the look, but I do get up to Rausch 4-5 times a year ... hoping to make it more often after the build.
As of right now, I'm completely stock and awaiting a new cylinder head (yeah). I'm confident that the stock D44's can handle the 37's under my driving style ... I've been wheeling since 2004 with my '99 TJ on 33's so I'm not green.
I'm looking for personal feedback on my parts list and theory of the build. I'm planning on lifting around 2.5-3" total and doing a fender chop. Obviously, the required trimming to body panels will be done as well (pinch seam, etc) and beefing up the front axle with gussets/sleeve. I can't really decide on the lift, but I'm aiming to do it right the first time around. I need something I can build on because I won't be able to do a complete lift with control arms all at once. Plus, I'll be wheeling the 32's first so it won't be necessary.
I think the RK 2.5" Stock Mod fits my bill, and before I go to 37's I'll add at least the lower control arms all around and a rear adjustable trackbar. At that time I'll also add 1.5" Spidertrax wheel spacers b/c I want to use the Rubicon Moab wheels, as well as bump stopping appropriately for the 37's (planman's thread comes to mind).
As for shocks, I have no idea where to go, due to the many options. the Bilstein 5100 seems to be tried and true, and that's fine, as long as the ride isn't harsh. I'd like a pretty lax ride, for under $100 per shock.
As far as the stock equipment handling the 37's, other than the front D44 being sleeved and gusseted, the drive shafts and axle shafts should hold up fine under light wheeling, correct? If I need to regear (running 4.10), then I'll do that down the road and put up with the loss of power for a while. Wheeling in low range shouldn't be a problem turning the 37's.
First stage by Topless for TaTa's on 8/4:
- EVO oil pan skid
- Keeping the stock 32's
- RK 2.5" Stock Mod
- Shocks? Bilstein 5100, RK's shocks?
Second stage for 37's:
- Rest of EVO skid system
- 37" MT/R+K on stock Rubicon Moab wheels
- 1.5" Spidertrax wheel spacers
- Rear tire carrier
- Upper C gussets + sleeve/truss
- Snorkel
- Bumpstopped appropriately
- Trimmed pinch seams, flares, and rockers
- Brakes will be upgraded down the road
Thanks for all the help
As of right now, I'm completely stock and awaiting a new cylinder head (yeah). I'm confident that the stock D44's can handle the 37's under my driving style ... I've been wheeling since 2004 with my '99 TJ on 33's so I'm not green.
I'm looking for personal feedback on my parts list and theory of the build. I'm planning on lifting around 2.5-3" total and doing a fender chop. Obviously, the required trimming to body panels will be done as well (pinch seam, etc) and beefing up the front axle with gussets/sleeve. I can't really decide on the lift, but I'm aiming to do it right the first time around. I need something I can build on because I won't be able to do a complete lift with control arms all at once. Plus, I'll be wheeling the 32's first so it won't be necessary.
I think the RK 2.5" Stock Mod fits my bill, and before I go to 37's I'll add at least the lower control arms all around and a rear adjustable trackbar. At that time I'll also add 1.5" Spidertrax wheel spacers b/c I want to use the Rubicon Moab wheels, as well as bump stopping appropriately for the 37's (planman's thread comes to mind).
As for shocks, I have no idea where to go, due to the many options. the Bilstein 5100 seems to be tried and true, and that's fine, as long as the ride isn't harsh. I'd like a pretty lax ride, for under $100 per shock.
As far as the stock equipment handling the 37's, other than the front D44 being sleeved and gusseted, the drive shafts and axle shafts should hold up fine under light wheeling, correct? If I need to regear (running 4.10), then I'll do that down the road and put up with the loss of power for a while. Wheeling in low range shouldn't be a problem turning the 37's.
First stage by Topless for TaTa's on 8/4:
- EVO oil pan skid
- Keeping the stock 32's
- RK 2.5" Stock Mod
- Shocks? Bilstein 5100, RK's shocks?
Second stage for 37's:
- Rest of EVO skid system
- 37" MT/R+K on stock Rubicon Moab wheels
- 1.5" Spidertrax wheel spacers
- Rear tire carrier
- Upper C gussets + sleeve/truss
- Snorkel
- Bumpstopped appropriately
- Trimmed pinch seams, flares, and rockers
- Brakes will be upgraded down the road
Thanks for all the help


