creynjr

Hey guys, I am new to these forums and a new JK owner. Lots of great info here. I recently purchased 2013 Unlimited with automatic trans(wife can't drive manual). I have read the faq's at the top and used the search but still have a few ?'s about a 2.5" bb lift. This is our weekend family vehicle around town and such, probably only put between 6k-8k miles on it a year. I want to use the Rough Country bb lift, but after reading about axle alignment, drive shaft replacement, not sure if I want to go through the trouble. The jeep will see some moderate offroad use, but mostly just some trail riding with the occasional mud hole! So I guess my ?'s are:

. Will I have to worry about axle alignment with the RC 2.5" bb lift?

. Will I need to replace the front drive shaft?

I'm gonna keep the stock shocks and just use the replacement brackets. I am also gonna use the stock wheels and tires after seeing some pics of this setup on here. stock tires are
255 75 17.
I am not to mechanically inclined when it comes to automotive, so am I just asking for trouble with this modification?

Sorry for the long post, look forward to your replies!

RubiKing

You won't have to change driveshafts for a 2.5" soccer lift. You may have to center your steering wheel after the lift (which isn't hard)

RubiKing

I meant to say 2.5" bb lift. I don't know why it spell corrected to soccer. I believe that kit may come with a track at bracket to center your rear axle but you probably won't need it.

red2010rubi

I have the teraflex 2.5" with stock drive shaft. I dd replace the steering stabilizer. However, I liked the stock one better than my new one.

creynjr

Thanks for the replies! Just gonna try and keep this as basic as possible and as economic as possible!

Collyn

Haha. Every crack and heroine addict started with something "basic". Like a beer, or a black Molly.

In Jeep land, every badass Jeep starts with a "basic lift, something economical". Then it grows to a full on addict. Lol.

Welcome to the pleasure dome.

My wife can't drive a stick either. But after the lift kit and other mods, she is too timid to drive it anyways. I hurt my leg at my softball game a few weeks ago and she had to drive us home. If I wasn't a little preoccupied with pain I would have been terrified. She drove it like it was her Honda. Swerving to take an exit on two wheels. EVERYTHING! Now, I think she wants to drive it again. I might need to go to a 6" long arm and 37"'s to keep her from beig able to get in it. Lol.

Sent from the fast lane while driving one handed.

creynjr

Haha! I wanted a manual trans real bad, but then I remembered the last time I tried to teach her and I don't think our marriage could survive that again hahaha! I'm sure I will get addicted but for now it will have to do.

Gman*2007

Congrats on your new jeep and welcome to the forum.

TURTLECON

Welcome to the forum!

You won't need new driveshafts. If your kit doesn't include one, an adjustable front trackbar will help you re-center your axle. You also may need to center your steering wheel after installing the lift, which 10 minutes and a 15mm socket will cure.

Enjoy the new jeep!

nthinuf

As you lift higher, both axles will shift over to one side. To fix this, you get relo brackets or adjustable trackbars. With smaller BB's, many kits don't include these components, and many people never bother to add them.

As you lift higher, the pinions on both axles tilt upward. Up front, this lowers the caster, causing flightier steering. The fixes are: Cam Bolts, Brackets, new longer/shorter Fixed control arms, or new adjustable control arms. Ascending in price in that order). As with the axle shift, many lower height kits do not include caster correction, and many people opt to not add them. It completely depends on 'your' opinion (or in this case, your wifes opinion?) of the handling after the lift.

As you lift higher, the driveshafts are at steeper angles, causing the joints on both ends to rotate at steeper angles. This has been known to cause the boots on those joints to spit out grease. If enough grease spits out, the joint will dry up and eventually fail. For the auto's, being lifted and flexing offroad will also bring the shaft closer to the corner of the auto tranny pan. If it gets close enough, the boot over the slip joint (middle of the shaft, where the two halves slide in and out) will catch on the corner and get ripped off. This isn't generally a big deal. What can be a big deal is actual contact between the shaft and the pan, which will end up denting in the pan or splitting the seal and causing a leak, etc. --> generally, this is for taller lifts, with longer shocks, when disconnected, and flexing offroad. More than likely, not an issue you will run into at 2.5" with light trails. (after lift install, find somewhere to flex it and crawl underneath to visually check the clearance!!!)



Also, I don't have a 2013 and haven't payed any attention to it, but isn't there an exhaust clearance issue that needs to be addressed?