And I just bought a set of JKS Quickers for the wifes JK.

 

The stresses in the link, itself, aren't particularly high.
The links mostly see simple tension/compression, whereas the "real muscle" of the system is torsion in the horizontal portion of the swaybar.
If the disco components are hardened, they can take the stress without problem. They might even be capable without hardening.
Factory links aren't much different.

My "concern" is with the small upper ball/socket joint.
Those small ball/socket joints are typical for gate/hood lifts, which might see a stress cycle once every few days. Swaybar components see a stress cycle on every little bump or corner.
I'm also not sure how much lube they could get in there to prolong its life, either.

I see a dramatic improvement in ease of removal/replacement.
I have the old style and they are a push-pull-push-curse-yank-push-pull-curse-twist-pull-push-sigh-push experience.
Add in a healthy coating of mud and the "curse" portion of the experience increases.
On the upside, they seem to be getting easier with each removal/replacement cycle.


The price is significantly lower than the competition and RC has already chimed in with guaranteed replacement for breakage, so I think it's an easy first choice for a lifted JK.

 

please do not take this wrong. I am not trying to talk bad about your new addition at all. That small ball socket will without a doubt in my head be the downfall of those links. I know RC will replace them for free.... but for a guy like me who has to drive a couple hours minimum no matter where I wheel at failure is a big deal. Unless they sold me 3 of them I would be afraid to be the guinea pig. That way if that design is flawed I could still get home with a swaybar. The rubber boot covering the ball makes the best of that situation by keeping the mud and water contaminants out. Seems to me and my simple brain that they took a simple swaybar link and added a complicated part that is built with a more fragile design than the factory component.

I know people think that the torsion of the factory sway bar is not that great, and it will not have enough force to break those links... but keep this in mind... the reason that you disconnect your swaybar to begin with is that the torsion created by it is strong enough to limit axle articulation by 33%. It is enough that it keeps your heavy jeep from leaning as it goes around corners.

Also, I still do not understand how these can adjust from 2"-6". Do they come with two different length lower pieces or just adjustable by using the threads? The threads look to be less than 2" long?

 

I'm not sure why you quoted me...anyhow, I can see your point but if you're just driving around town with the links connected then there is not going to be near as much tension on those links as there would if you were off road and flexing....BUT, if you're off road and flexing then you're gonna have them disconnected anyway so what's the problem? Basically, I don't see how they could "fail" under just normal driving.

Also, IF they do fail somehow while you're two hours away on a trail somewhere (remember, they would be disconnected so how would they fail?)...then you CAN drive with the sway bar disconnected. No, it's not ideal and not as safe but I and several others do this quite often with no problems.

 

lmao... I didn't mean to quote you. Dunno what happened there.

 

You mention that they don't line up because the axle shifted.... Why does a lift make it shift and is it an easy adjustment to make? I'd hate to throw stuff out of whack when I do my lift.

 

Lifting the Jeep without adding an adjustable track bar or a track bar bracket will cause the axle to shift towards the driver's side on the front or towards the passenger side on the rear....it effectively shortens the track bar when you lift, pulling the axle to one side.

New adjustable front track bar = $130 and up from what I've found.....you CAN get a bracket for the front but I think it would be better to go ahead and get a new track bar myself.

 

Are they neccessary? If I chose not to do it, what are the ramifications?

 

Ripping off your poorly welded stock axle bracket is one . Although that has happened on stock vehicles aswell. If you do a re-locate bracket, get a frame mounted one, adj trackbar is the best though.

 

Bringing this back to hear hoy they are now that it's been a while. How have they worked for the people who have them? I am looking at discos and have added theese as an option.