OK listen-up! Time to be serious....
#12
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UPDATE:
I just finished changing the diff fluid... WOW!!! Easy squeezy!
The fronts were crystal clear, the rears... Blackish silverish, mostly black. Anyway, that's all done.
I measured the alignment as outlined in project-jk and it would seem that I may have a slight toe-out, if not almost center. If it's out, it's only 1/16th of an inch. WOL says that the best setting is a 1/8th inch toe-in that suits 35" tires best. So once again going ahead with the assumption that this is the culprit.
So now I have a problem because I can't find my channel-locks . I called my neighbor who owns a TJ Rubi and asked if he has a pair and he wasn't home. BUT he was at Sears and is soon heading home. He's going to be picking me up a pair of "Made in USA" channel locks as per my request.
I just finished changing the diff fluid... WOW!!! Easy squeezy!
The fronts were crystal clear, the rears... Blackish silverish, mostly black. Anyway, that's all done.
I measured the alignment as outlined in project-jk and it would seem that I may have a slight toe-out, if not almost center. If it's out, it's only 1/16th of an inch. WOL says that the best setting is a 1/8th inch toe-in that suits 35" tires best. So once again going ahead with the assumption that this is the culprit.
So now I have a problem because I can't find my channel-locks . I called my neighbor who owns a TJ Rubi and asked if he has a pair and he wasn't home. BUT he was at Sears and is soon heading home. He's going to be picking me up a pair of "Made in USA" channel locks as per my request.
#13
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UPDATE:
Well, I adjusted the toe-in to 1/8" inward in comparison to the rear ( front=67 1/8", rear 67 1/4") and I aired the tires to 28psi front 30psi rear.
Better... But just a little. Now it only comes on occasion within the 35mph mark instead of at a guaranteed 30-40mph. When I'm cruising at or around 35 or if I'm slowing and pass 35 is when it does it, although not quite as bad.
It'll be going off to 4wheelparts on Mon. for a balance and whatever else may be needed. I tried, even though it did improve, it was not as much as I prefer; I'm pretty anal when it comes to drivability. I didn't quite fail, but I surely didn't succeed.
I let you know how things go on Mon.
Well, I adjusted the toe-in to 1/8" inward in comparison to the rear ( front=67 1/8", rear 67 1/4") and I aired the tires to 28psi front 30psi rear.
Better... But just a little. Now it only comes on occasion within the 35mph mark instead of at a guaranteed 30-40mph. When I'm cruising at or around 35 or if I'm slowing and pass 35 is when it does it, although not quite as bad.
It'll be going off to 4wheelparts on Mon. for a balance and whatever else may be needed. I tried, even though it did improve, it was not as much as I prefer; I'm pretty anal when it comes to drivability. I didn't quite fail, but I surely didn't succeed.
I let you know how things go on Mon.
#14
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Well, no 4wheelparts on Mon., they're all booked.
This thing is F%#king pissing me off !!!
It's relentless and it varies with every little thing that's done. I've aired up, I've aired down, I've aired left, I've aired right, I've adjusted toe-in, I've adjusted toe-out. I suppose the last thing to do is to balance the tires.....
Now I see what everyone is getting worked-up over .
I'll be calling my local 4x4 shops I guess......
This thing is F%#king pissing me off !!!
It's relentless and it varies with every little thing that's done. I've aired up, I've aired down, I've aired left, I've aired right, I've adjusted toe-in, I've adjusted toe-out. I suppose the last thing to do is to balance the tires.....
Now I see what everyone is getting worked-up over .
I'll be calling my local 4x4 shops I guess......
#16
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UPDATE:
OK... In my last post I said that I tried toe-out, that's because it was slightly toed-out before I even started.
Well, I read an article in JP mag that said that you can toe-out as much as 3/8" in order to fix wobble. So I thought "scew-it, what do I have to loose?" and I went out and did it...
IT WORKED!!!
I set it to about 1/8" toe-out initially with much improvement. So then I set it to 1/4 for the hell of it. Thank goodness I did because she's back up and rolling like a champ. I do have minimal wobble, but now it just barely moves the steering wheel and only around 35mph. That, and sometimes it doesn't do any type of wobble AT ALL.
JP mag also said that toe-in and toe-out will depend on your caster angle.
Here's the article:
"There are two schools when it comes to alignment. Too much caster and too much toe-in can induce death wobble. Too little caster and too much toe-out can cause wandering. Identify your symptom. If the tires start oscillating and hopping violently, you've got death wobble. Increasing the toe setting to as much as 3/8-inch toe-out (yes, readers toe-out; no misprint) has been known to help, or if possible, dialing the caster back to 3-4 degrees positive (bottom ball joint in front of top). The larger your tires, the less caster you should need."
OK... In my last post I said that I tried toe-out, that's because it was slightly toed-out before I even started.
Well, I read an article in JP mag that said that you can toe-out as much as 3/8" in order to fix wobble. So I thought "scew-it, what do I have to loose?" and I went out and did it...
IT WORKED!!!
I set it to about 1/8" toe-out initially with much improvement. So then I set it to 1/4 for the hell of it. Thank goodness I did because she's back up and rolling like a champ. I do have minimal wobble, but now it just barely moves the steering wheel and only around 35mph. That, and sometimes it doesn't do any type of wobble AT ALL.
JP mag also said that toe-in and toe-out will depend on your caster angle.
Here's the article:
"There are two schools when it comes to alignment. Too much caster and too much toe-in can induce death wobble. Too little caster and too much toe-out can cause wandering. Identify your symptom. If the tires start oscillating and hopping violently, you've got death wobble. Increasing the toe setting to as much as 3/8-inch toe-out (yes, readers toe-out; no misprint) has been known to help, or if possible, dialing the caster back to 3-4 degrees positive (bottom ball joint in front of top). The larger your tires, the less caster you should need."
#17
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I'm just a little east of the sunshine state but I would like to know if this is your first rotation.
I thought about this rotation method before, but the problem I see is that front tires tend to wear unevenly on the outside. Moving the left front to the right front and the right front to the back means you still have a tire that is worn on the outside - but only on ONE side. And you have two worn tires on the SAME side.
Anyhow, if it does turn out to the balance, then I'll feel more confident in potentially using the method.
I thought about this rotation method before, but the problem I see is that front tires tend to wear unevenly on the outside. Moving the left front to the right front and the right front to the back means you still have a tire that is worn on the outside - but only on ONE side. And you have two worn tires on the SAME side.
Anyhow, if it does turn out to the balance, then I'll feel more confident in potentially using the method.
#18
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I'm just a little east of the sunshine state but I would like to know if this is your first rotation.
I thought about this rotation method before, but the problem I see is that front tires tend to wear unevenly on the outside. Moving the left front to the right front and the right front to the back means you still have a tire that is worn on the outside - but only on ONE side. And you have two worn tires on the SAME side.
Anyhow, if it does turn out to the balance, then I'll feel more confident in potentially using the method.
I thought about this rotation method before, but the problem I see is that front tires tend to wear unevenly on the outside. Moving the left front to the right front and the right front to the back means you still have a tire that is worn on the outside - but only on ONE side. And you have two worn tires on the SAME side.
Anyhow, if it does turn out to the balance, then I'll feel more confident in potentially using the method.
If you still have any questions, feel free to ask again.
#19
I'm stickin to my guns BSack. Just don't see how a tire rotation could affect steering geometry... unless you have some BIG wear differences now between front left and front right tires.
I thought about this rotation method before, but the problem I see is that front tires tend to wear unevenly on the outside. Moving the left front to the right front and the right front to the back means you still have a tire that is worn on the outside - but only on ONE side. And you have two worn tires on the SAME side.
Bsack, I bet ya a $ if you get a balance done that little shimmy @ 30 will go away.
Oh and you're right, air pressure will play hell your ride if it is out of wack.
#20
I have never seen anyone rotate that way before I just alway go front to back and back to front and keep them on the same side. All of the tires out there today are radials for the most part beside the swampers sx which are bais ply which require you to go from driver front to passenger rear and the same on the other side radial dont like to be turning the oppisite way that they were original turning in it can create a tire to seperate