Im starting the build on the jk now over the winter. I would love your guys opinions since you been around it.. To start its a rubicon I purchased the 3.5 rockkrawler long arm x-factor lift. got a 2" body lift already.. I guess question is axles to start. I got 5.38s front and rear for a dana 44 already. so plan would be Detroit locker with 5.38 and a aftermarket shafts for rear? and Front im thinking prorock44 with a selectable locker and rcvs. im gonna do 37 right now then hopefully 40s down the rd unless money is there near end of build just purchase 40s then reason being I already got access to a set of 37s for next to nothing.. So any information to help me along the lines much apprectiated id like to do this just once and don't have the funds to purchase a 8000$ 60's for front and rear now..

There will be wheeling involved but I know when to let off and get winched before everything starts breaking hah!

Axles, lockers, high rise fenders, axle shafts, any input much appreciated thanks guys!!

 

If your plan is to run 40's some day,save the funds and do it right,D60's

 

X2. I wouldn't even consider running 40's on anything less than a D60.

 

It's easy to pile on things to consider for 40's, and the difference between "consider" and "need" is totally up to each individual. I'd consider brakes and steering after the obvious ones stated so far.

 

Your gonna need Dynatrac full float prorock 60's, PSC hydro steering assist, wheels with 3.5" back space, pinch seam trimming, 1350 front and rear drive shafts, good tire carrier to handle the weight of the 40+plus wheel. And probably a few other things.

Im currently running 37's and just hit 35k miles on my '12 rubi that I bought last year in Apr. So far i broke the rear locker, destroyed the ball joints, blew out passenger front unit bearing, bent both rear axle flanges..and blew out the wheel bearings on the new replacement shafts too.

So you should save your lunch money for the 60's and only run 37's for now....probably should at least get some gussets for your front axle too......your gonna need them. The outer(C's) are weak a $hit.

 

X4 on D60 axles. For now, just enjoy what you have and save up some bux.

 

You will want the full float ton's for strength and the extra width you are going to need to run a 40"x13.5" tire. Wheel bs will depend on the width of the axles and you should figure that combo in when you build. The more bs the easier it will be on ball joints. The full floats will require a 8 lug wheel so plan on those as well. I would not waste my time on the prorock 44. 1350 shafts are not needed and not recommended unless you are going to be swapping in some more hp. Wheeling on 37's you will want some cromoly shafts on the rear. I would kill the 2" body lift and just run the 3.5" lift as it will give you plenty of clearance with a flat fender. The difference in a proper build for 37's and 40's is so much more then just swapping out the tires. Plan on hydraulic assist on the steering, a drag link flip, super stubby bumpers, and be ready to start cutting.

Fill out your profile when you get a chance. You did not state what year your rig is or what transmission you have. If it is an 11 or older with the auto you are not going to like running 40's even on 5.38 gears.

 

Nows your chance to run some 20" wheels on it too! According To everyone on here, u can't run 20s on anything less than a 40

Build sounds good, just curious, why the 2" body lift instead of a larger suspension lift?

 

I would still only run a 17" wheel

 

It took two years for me to build to run 40s and Dirtman had advise along the way, as well as Planman. Although I don't agree with D60s being needed upfront, it does take a tremendous amount of time, planning, cutting and money to run them the right way. Plus moving the rear axle back and modifiying the rear trackbar upper mount, etc. Definetely look and listen to guys running them and see what each has done and experienced. As Dirtman said, it is much more than just swapping tires. He also says 37s were more fun sometimes.