That's cool (pun intended). Other than the fan running faster than before, are there any more symptoms regarding the electrical glitch ?

The tune file indicates that it's a linear PWM (pule width modulation) controlled variable speed fan. I think that the PWM pulses come from the TIPM to the fan, and the fan has the electronics for motor speed control built-in. It should gradually increase speed as the temperature increases from 219F to 230F according to the stock (2015) HP Tuners file I'm reading. There's also an adjustable hysteresis (deadband) which is likely included to keep the fan from quickly cycling on/off, and maybe changing speeds as well.

Software settings are repeatable, so I don't thing adjusting the fan settings will fix this glitch, it sounds electrical or electronic. The ECT sensor is essentially what varies the fan speed, so if it's reads wrong both the fan speed and indicated temperature would be affected. Might be the fan itself, but checking the power connections would be top on my list to check.

 

So after reading this article, https://www.realjenius.com/2018/06/2..._radiator_fan/ , I decided to Just Change the cts and go for a drive. When I got up to 232 at the top of a grade, I pulled over quickly on the highway and the fan was going pretty fast. So I don’t think it’s the fan. Alas, I believe I think I just need to drive 10 under the Wyoming/Montana speed limit and call it a day.

 

yes I have had this glitch for awhile although ever since I installed my remote start it has mostly gone away. But I get a flashing hot oil message, my fans get stuck on high and my gauges go all crazy and get all Christmas tree on my dash and then if I shut the Jeep off while it is doing it, it will not want to start again and go into a immobilize mode and sometimes the doors won’t even unlock. It Usually goes away When I smack the dash hard.

 

That is a great article. I have to find a way to remember or save that for future reference.

There are worse things in life than just slowing down and enjoying the scenery!

 

Just to update since it's been a while now, and I just got back to Texas after a week in Colorado. That Royal Purple Ice has been a fart in the wind. No difference at all. This last trip of mine was about 2k miles round trip, and towing about 1500lbs of trailer. I was fine until ambient temps rose to the mid-high 90s, at which time my coolant temps were 230-240. I was pretty much stuck there driving up through the TX panhandle and all the way up through Colorado Springs. It sucked. during my time there in the mountains I towed that trailer up over various passes and mountain roads with RPMs screaming just the same.....but never had coolant temp issues with the ambient temps much much cooler 50-70°. This simply just seems to be an ambient temp issue in my case and my rad can't keep up. I guess I'm going to go ahead and change to a different radiator and hope for better results. I like the Flex-a-lite, but I sure the heck don't like that price. I'll update with what I end up buying and if it made any difference at all.

 

I have ordered a Griffin radiator, and nice shiny new cap. We shall see....... It seemed like a decent compromise between Mopar unit and really pricey things like Flex-A-Lite. I could not bring myself to consider Mishimoto even with claims their claims that the V2 was not having issues as the previous model. There seemed to be a period of time years ago with a lot of discussion on the aluminum rads, but it's really hard finding many recent reviews. After tax and small discount, the Griffin was $400. I know they are a reliable company, and I also have tempered expectations of lifespan with any radiator in these JKs, specially if out wheeling it hard. When I get to installing it, I'll create a new thread with my thoughts and link it here as well.

 

Good timing Russ- I recently ordered a Mopar unit for our 2016 so we'll see which unit holds up. The 2016 is mostly stock though so I don't see any troubles ahead unless it splits at the seams like the current radiator.

 

I am half tempted to chop up this OSC radiator and see if there is any internal blockage or something. If i see any sign of even a pinhole leak I will do that. If I don't see anything, I might be more tempted to keep it on hand just in case. I have no reason to think it has any leakage, but I'm dang curious if there's anything going on internally. I think I'm going to go ahead and replace the water pump too. That is a bit of pain on the 3.6L as the alternator comes off and at least one, if not two, other pullies has to come off to get to the WP. I have 95k miles now. Guess better to do that as preventative while everything is torn apart than to deal with it later on. Lot easier access without the radiator or grill there. I can't recall from last time....I think I have to leave my tranny cooler kinda dangling around the front.

 

An idea for you: The little $50 borescope camera I bought a couple months ago has a mirror nose-piece that snaps on to view sideways. Imagining it could be snaked down the inlet side through where the radiator hose connects to view if the tube inlets are obstructed. It's one of those tools that keeps finding uses...

 

I will start a new thread for the Griffin radiator, but I got the old radiator out last night and thought I'd just update with couple pics. Good news is there was no leak in the OSC radiator, though I had not suspected there might be. It was dirty, but not near as dirty as I suspected it might be. nice mud dobber nest on the backside. I would say that with the fan on the back, and both tranny cooler and a/c condenser on the front, it's not really easy to wash these radiators well while installed. I washed it really good once out and it doesn't look terribly different even though compared to a nice new shiny one it looks disgustingly dirty.