Please help explain drag link and tie rod
#1
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Please help explain drag link and tie rod
I would like to install a beefier and stronger tie rod and drag link but I don't know the difference of some of the kits available. Terraflex for example has an HD tie rod and drag link kit and they also have HD tie rod with flipped drag link kit. What is "flipped" mean and what does that get me? Which do I choose? For some background info...I have a lifted 2 door 2014 Jeep JK Rubicon with a 3" Rock Krawler X Factor lift. I'm currently running 35" tires. I do wheel my Jeep. Thank you in advance for suggestions and replies.
Last edited by CzechMate; 12-26-2017 at 05:32 PM.
#2
JK Super Freak
Someone will correct me if I'm wrong but I believe you have to be 3.5 inches of lift or more to benefit from flipping. That means flipping the drag link from mounting under the knuckle to mounting on top of the knuckle. I think you'd want the "standard kit". I have the Teraflex tie rod on my JK and its pure beef!
#3
JK Newbie
Someone will correct me if I'm wrong but I believe you have to be 3.5 inches of lift or more to benefit from flipping. That means flipping the drag link from mounting under the knuckle to mounting on top of the knuckle. I think you'd want the "standard kit". I have the Teraflex tie rod on my JK and its pure beef!
#4
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Yep, flipped is moving the axle end of the draglink to the top of the knuckle. You will add a trackbar bracket to raise the axle end of it at the same time. Do not move one without also moving the other - You want to keep them roughly parallel to each other. Another version will use a Drop Pitman and a trackbar lowering bracket. Not a lot of love for this setup, most prefer to raise. (you might also see the term 'high steer', it is used interchangably with draglink flip)
Another thing to note is that with the draglink on top of the knuckle, you can have some clearance issues when that tire is stuffed. So if you decide to go ahead with a flip, pay attention to the cautions about bumpstop heights. You'll want to keep that rod end from smacking into the frame.
Another thing to note is that with the draglink on top of the knuckle, you can have some clearance issues when that tire is stuffed. So if you decide to go ahead with a flip, pay attention to the cautions about bumpstop heights. You'll want to keep that rod end from smacking into the frame.
Last edited by nthinuf; 12-26-2017 at 11:51 PM.
#5
JK Jedi
The only thing I'd add to what others have said here is that benefiting from a high steer kit (drag link flip) isn't really about the stated lift height of the kit, but more the actual netted lift height. Every jeep is different. For example, if one had a very light 2 dr, and installed quality 2.5" lift springs which netted an actual lift of 3.5", that jeep would benefit from flipping even though the lift kit was only 2.5". These are real world scenarios and every single jeep is different. With 3" RK springs, I'm going to guess you're actually netting more lift than that, and probably are right on the cusp of benefiting from a high steer kit. As noted above, you have to adjust the TB mount as well....preferably axle side with a bracket....so that the DL and TB stay parallel, and flipping the DL will force you to run 3" of bumpstop up front to avoid ramming the DL in to the frame when flexing.
I will say I drove for 2.5+ years lifted 3.5" and with no DL flip. When I finally flipped it, I thought it was a considerable difference. Others will tell you it's not a big deal. If you don't know what your actual netted lift is up front, there are a few places you can measure. This pic is probably the easiest showing stock measurements.
I will say I drove for 2.5+ years lifted 3.5" and with no DL flip. When I finally flipped it, I thought it was a considerable difference. Others will tell you it's not a big deal. If you don't know what your actual netted lift is up front, there are a few places you can measure. This pic is probably the easiest showing stock measurements.
#6
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Something else worth mentioning is that I ran a Synergy draglink in the stock location for quite a while before getting around to adding the raised trackbar bracket and drilling the knuckle to flip the draglink. Might be an option if you are on the fence about flipping. And if you don't already have a raised rear trackbar bracket, I would suggest it.