Please help, front end "floating or light" after track bar bracket
JK Jedi Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 11,463
Likes: 165
From: Austin <--> Colorado Springs
Yep, drill the top of the knuckle and mount the draglink up top.
Those bars need to remain roughly parallel, so when you raised the axle end of the trackbar, you should have also relocated the draglink. (this probably should have been mentioned in the notes for the bracket on their site.)
Those bars need to remain roughly parallel, so when you raised the axle end of the trackbar, you should have also relocated the draglink. (this probably should have been mentioned in the notes for the bracket on their site.)
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 416
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh
yea... No. If you raised the axle side track bar a drop pitman arm would throw it further out of the same plane. You would need to raise the drag link at the knuckle to get it back to being parallel. Think about it like this... Two bars start off parallel. Then you raise the bottom of one and drop the top of the other. You could use a drop pitman if you dropped the frame side of the track bar instead of raising the axle side. But that's not a good idea.
Former Vendor
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,644
Likes: 13
From: Albany New York
I just added a track bar bracket Front Track Bar Bracket for 07-13 Jeep JK Wrangler [1118] | Rough Country Suspension Systems I have a 3" BDS lift and I have had an adjustable track bar on for a year or so. I added this bracket for two reasons: 1) added strength 2) help correct geometry. After I was done, I did have to adjust the track bar (shorten it) and adjust the steering wheel. It tracks fine and doesn't pull, overall it feels better except at higher speeds when I hit dips (not bumps) it feels light or like it's floating. The only way to describe it is like when you try to put 2 similar poles of a magnet together and they try to repel each other. Not extremely bad, but enough to make me ponder. I have the steering stabilizer almost perfectly parallel with the tie rod, where before it was slightly off. I'm wondering if it is the steering stabilizer (only 15k miles) or too much caster. Doing what I did shouldn't have changed caster. I have checked everything and all bolts are tight.
Ideas?
Ideas?
RK
Forum Tech Advisor
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,208
Likes: 11
From: Billings, MT
And, if you flip the drag link--drilling the top of the knuckle and adding an insert in the hole--you will also need to increase the length of at least your front passenger side extended bumpstop to 3".
If you don't your flipped drag link will hit the frame when the front passenger side suspension is fully stuffed.
Personally, I would discourage a flipped drag link with a 3" lift because 3" extended bumpstopping is too much unless you are running taller than 35" tires with stock flares. I'd discourage a dropped pitman arm on any JK because of the excess leverage on a weak stock steering box. I would discourage the use of the RC bracket for the above 2 reasons.
I'd return the tracbar to the stock location and either add gussets to the stock bracket, do a weld-on replacment, or do something like the JKS (or similar) weld-on brace.
An exhaust shop can weld on gussets or the JKS (or simlar) brace for not much money.
Rock Krawler sells small gussets that can be welded to the stock bracket to increase the strength.
If you don't your flipped drag link will hit the frame when the front passenger side suspension is fully stuffed.
Personally, I would discourage a flipped drag link with a 3" lift because 3" extended bumpstopping is too much unless you are running taller than 35" tires with stock flares. I'd discourage a dropped pitman arm on any JK because of the excess leverage on a weak stock steering box. I would discourage the use of the RC bracket for the above 2 reasons.
I'd return the tracbar to the stock location and either add gussets to the stock bracket, do a weld-on replacment, or do something like the JKS (or similar) weld-on brace.
An exhaust shop can weld on gussets or the JKS (or simlar) brace for not much money.
Rock Krawler sells small gussets that can be welded to the stock bracket to increase the strength.
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 416
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh
And, if you flip the drag link--drilling the top of the knuckle and adding an insert in the hole--you will also need to increase the length of at least your front passenger side extended bumpstop to 3".
If you don't your flipped drag link will hit the frame when the front passenger side suspension is fully stuffed.
Personally, I would discourage a flipped drag link with a 3" lift because 3" extended bumpstopping is too much unless you are running taller than 35" tires with stock flares. I'd discourage a dropped pitman arm on any JK because of the excess leverage on a weak stock steering box. I would discourage the use of the RC bracket for the above 2 reasons.
I'd return the tracbar to the stock location and either add gussets to the stock bracket, do a weld-on replacment, or do something like the JKS (or similar) weld-on brace.
An exhaust shop can weld on gussets or the JKS (or simlar) brace for not much money.
Rock Krawler sells small gussets that can be welded to the stock bracket to increase the strength.
If you don't your flipped drag link will hit the frame when the front passenger side suspension is fully stuffed.
Personally, I would discourage a flipped drag link with a 3" lift because 3" extended bumpstopping is too much unless you are running taller than 35" tires with stock flares. I'd discourage a dropped pitman arm on any JK because of the excess leverage on a weak stock steering box. I would discourage the use of the RC bracket for the above 2 reasons.
I'd return the tracbar to the stock location and either add gussets to the stock bracket, do a weld-on replacment, or do something like the JKS (or similar) weld-on brace.
An exhaust shop can weld on gussets or the JKS (or simlar) brace for not much money.
Rock Krawler sells small gussets that can be welded to the stock bracket to increase the strength.
If I do the flip I'm committed right? Can't remove the insert and go back?
Former Vendor
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,644
Likes: 13
From: Albany New York
RK
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 416
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh
CRAP, Planman is right, I looked at the clearance and it will be tight. I took off the RC bracket and went back to stock. I really liked the added strength the RC bracket gives without having to weld.
This is why I follow this forum, thanks everybody for the insight. Live and learn.
Anyone interested in a very slightly used RC front track bar bracket?
This is why I follow this forum, thanks everybody for the insight. Live and learn.
Anyone interested in a very slightly used RC front track bar bracket?
JK Newbie
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
From: Flowery branch, GA
I'm not mechanically inclined but I am having the same problem. I have a 2dr with 2.5 teraflex bb. My question is would synergy's front steer correction kit fix my issue with bump steer? Or is that kit for a larger lift?