Hello Everyone! Current build is as follows: '08 JK 2dr X, 6 speed manual, 35" tires, Teraflex 2.5" suspension lift kit, all 8 TF adjustable control arms, TF front and rear adjustable track bars, and TF HD steering kit. Future upgrades may include up to a 4" lift, possibly utilizing Metalcloak 3.5" Dual Rate springs and 37" tires. But first, I will be pulling the trigger soon on a Pro Rock 44 Unlimited front housing, and I have some questions.
1) Will the built in caster of the Pro Rock work for both situations?
2) I am currently experiencing some wandering with the steering, and may install a high steer kit with Reid high steer knuckles, but it will be a tight fit with the current lift height. Would a high steer kit be required if I installed the MC higher lift springs and Reid knuckles? Note: ball joints are slightly worn but planning on getting Pro Steer BJ's with the Pro Rock 44. Am also inquiring as to what additional parts I may need to replace to utilize the Reid knuckles.
3) Should I order the PR with a welded track bar bracket?
4) Can't decide on gear ratio. Am considering 5:13's r 5:38's due to eventual 37's and a lot of extra weight in add on's.
Open to other suggestions advice on how I should proceed as to avoid fitment issues and future upgrades.
Thanks!

 

Just from my experience,Dynatrac doesn't recommend a raised track bar bracket unless you have at least 3" of lift.
Also I don't think you can run Reid knuckles without doing a drag link flip. If your going to order axle with castor correction
And do the 4" lift at same time then get the raised track bar bracket on it to. Just can't really run it with 2.5" of lift.

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I should have mentioned that the Teraflex front coils provide app. 3" of lift, so the welded track bar bracket may still work. Also wondered whether or not I would need the flipped drag link with the Reid knuckles. Thanks!

 

If you go that route make sure you check bump stops

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Agreed...bump stops may be a factor as well. I have emailed Metalcloak with some questions regarding use of their springs and 6 Pack shocks with my TF arms.

Can anyone chime in on the Reid knuckles and whether or not a flipped drag link will be required?

 

This is full of fail. Good luck.

 

Yes, reids only work with a flipped drag link.

 

Amount of lift has nothing to do with drag link flip. The key factor is bump stop. You need a combined total of 3" between bump stop and/or frame notch.

 

Invest2m4, please elaborate. To simply say this is full of fail, and not elaborate as to why, is non-productive.

 

Don't do high steer. Use 2.5" springs and clearance where needed. Pro steer ball joints are not worth it. They last no longer than others, cost 3x as much, and then cost $125 to rebuild. If you want 6paks, add a nitrogen setup to the list. You need to charge them every few months. A kit will run around $400 all in. If you wheel in rocks a lot, you may not want them in the rear. I went through 4 rears in one summer smashing them into rocks. Broke a nitrogen valve off almost every time out.

Lastly, I think the PR44 is snake oil and not worth the cost. You can get a new Rubi axle for $3k less or buy a used one with the gears you want already in it. Prices have come way down. Nothing on a D44 was designed to run 37s. You can also buy a J8 housing for around $800, which has slightly thicker tubes. Truss and be done. $5k for a D44 is insane. You can build a 60 for half that.