Pro Rock 44 Unlimited
Hi Ringer. Thanks for the drag link clarification. I have read elsewhere that bump stops may not be required with MC springs due to their design (top portion of the coils acting similar to bump stops), and I am planning on notching the frame in an effort to maintain as much up travel as possible (I am a certified autobody repair technician, so this facet of the build does not concern me).
Hi Ringer. Thanks for the drag link clarification. I have read elsewhere that bump stops may not be required with MC springs due to their design (top portion of the coils acting similar to bump stops), and I am planning on notching the frame in an effort to maintain as much up travel as possible (I am a certified autobody repair technician, so this facet of the build does not concern me).
Thank you for elaborating. Northridge is offering the PR44 with free Pro Steer ball joints, so the cost is n/a, and I like the fact they can be rebuilt in the vehicle.
The PR44 unlimited version housing is touted as being similar in strength to a 60, but the ring and pinion would be smaller, and the axles 30 vs. 35 spline. Why would it not be suitable for mild to moderate rock climbing with 37's? Most of my wheeling will be trails and mudding. Maybe I will stick with the 35's...
The PR44 unlimited version housing is touted as being similar in strength to a 60, but the ring and pinion would be smaller, and the axles 30 vs. 35 spline. Why would it not be suitable for mild to moderate rock climbing with 37's? Most of my wheeling will be trails and mudding. Maybe I will stick with the 35's...
Also, I am considering a high steer kit to help with the wandering I am experiencing. All the steering components, save for unit bearings and ball joints, are brand new, and the track bar and drag link are parallel. I am not experiencing any bump steer.
Lastly, I think the PR44 is snake oil and not worth the cost. You can get a new Rubi axle for $3k less or buy a used one with the gears you want already in it. Prices have come way down. Nothing on a D44 was designed to run 37s. You can also buy a J8 housing for around $800, which has slightly thicker tubes. Truss and be done. $5k for a D44 is insane. You can build a 60 for half that.
With a 2.5" lift, I don't think the caster correction adds much incremental value. There has to be over 100k JKs running around with lifts and stock axles. Is it nice? Sure. Is it $5k nice? I'd say no. I mean, it isn't all that difficult to rotate the C's on a stock axle.
With a 2.5" lift, I don't think the caster correction adds much incremental value. There has to be over 100k JKs running around with lifts and stock axles. Is it nice? Sure. Is it $5k nice? I'd say no. I mean, it isn't all that difficult to rotate the C's on a stock axle.
Yeah, although I have faith in my aptitude to learn and develop new skills, and I certainly appreciate the advice on saving money, modifying an axle housing is not something I wish to do at this time. Therefore, I will likely proceed with the Pro Rock 44 Unlimited and stick with 35's. Below is my new build plan:
1) Pro Rock 44 Unlimited housing with welded track bar bracket, Eaton E-Locker, 30 spline RCV shafts, 5:13 gear ratio (tentative), Pro Steer ball joints, and Reid knuckles.
2) Metalcloak 3.5" dual rate springs
3) Keep the Teraflex 9550's for now, pending more research on shocks.
4) Synergy flip drag link kit with sector shaft reinforcement bracket and track bar.
5) Notch frame for clearance and then measure for bump stops, if still required.
Am I missing anything else?
Thanks!
1) Pro Rock 44 Unlimited housing with welded track bar bracket, Eaton E-Locker, 30 spline RCV shafts, 5:13 gear ratio (tentative), Pro Steer ball joints, and Reid knuckles.
2) Metalcloak 3.5" dual rate springs
3) Keep the Teraflex 9550's for now, pending more research on shocks.
4) Synergy flip drag link kit with sector shaft reinforcement bracket and track bar.
5) Notch frame for clearance and then measure for bump stops, if still required.
Am I missing anything else?
Thanks!


