I am looking to buy a JK and lifting it 4 inches and run 35x12.50x15's. I test drove one yesterday that the salesman said had 2 and 3/4 iches of lift with 35x12.50x15's on it and he said they lift about 16 wranglers a month. He said if you go with more lift than that then the jeep is all over the road. If this is true how do you fix that problem? Or is it fixable? The jeep is going to be a daily driver, but I'm planing on doing as much trail riding as possible with it also. I need to know that at 70 or 80 mph that this thing is going to be stable and not put me into a ditch or anything else. I would appreciate any information I can get before I go and buy all this stuff,because if its not going to be stable and not handle at all... I don't want it. Thanks.

 

it all depends on the lift kit and how complete it is. 4" is a lot of lift and if you don't get a kit with adjustable components that allow you to correct your suspension geometry and dial in your ride, yeah, your jeep will be all over the place on pavement and handle poorly. more than off road performance, a good high quality kit that is very complete is designed to keep your jeep riding and handling well and as close to stock as possible. cheaper incomplete kits just get you lifted 4" and while they may look good and even do well on the trail, the ride and handling will not be so great.

 

Yeah what he said... I have a 2 door with a 4" lift and it handles fine. Just do alot of research on the lift kits before pulling the trigger. The other thing to keep in mind is how much money you want to throw at the Jeep. Depending on if it's 2 or 4 door, manual or auto at 4" of lift and 35's you'll most likely be shopping for driveshafts and wanting to regear also. I got a mid grade lift that is ok but came with alot of relocation brackets which over time I'm replacing with the proper adjustable parts. I chose that route so I could get a bigger lift and the initial price tag didn't make my wife divorce me

 

More of what was said above. I have a 4.5 R/E long arm on mine. A 2 dr manual. But I also changed drive shafts, regeared to 4:88's and am driving on 35's. Mine drives just fine. It is a lot of money up front but well worth it in the end. Good luck

 

You can run a TeraFlex 2.5" -3" for 35's on your JK. What lift kit was he trying to sell you? I'm running a 4" LA kit with 37's for almost 50,000 miles, handles great up to 90mph!

 

Give me a ring at Full-traction, We can go over the different combo's to run this set up.

Chris

 

I thought a body lift advantage was lower COG vs suspension. I'm no expert but yes higher COG than stock but less than suspension is my understanding.

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk.

 

WOL is right. It is all about how complete a kit is. I am considering going down a little, probably to 2.5". Many take the low lift and spacers or small body lift and run 37s no problem. I have read many posts on the low center of gravity approach. I have a four inch lift, and the only adjustable part is the front track bar. I need, if not front CAs, a front drive shaft, that is failing first. I want 37s in the future and I will still be DD friendly if I modify correctly. But take a shot on what works for you, I know that in between 70 and 80mph my jeep moves pretty funny. I top out about 65 just to be safe. My caster needs adjusting and I think I would like an adj rear track bar and a full set of CAs to dial it in just right. The cash is the hard thing to figure out

 

Also keep in mind not all lifts provide the same height. My 2.5" teraflex on my jk is higher then the 4" rough country on my tj

 

How is that when the body weighs no where near what a frame engine etc weigh. Bringing that much weight higher in the air vs the light body will give you a higher COG.

A 2.5" lift with a one inch body lift will have a lower COG than a 3.5" lift. (lifts being of equal quality)