Biginboca

Mike, some food for thought... If you are running 3" lift and you are daily driving your rig you are a good candidate for a high steer kit to improve handling. These kits require 3" bump stop extensions. With 3" bumpstop extensions I'm running the fox reservoir shocks from the 6-8" lift which net just over 12" travel. With synergy 3" springs and 1" front spacers to level my rig I have 4.25" shock shaft showing at ride height. And an extra 1" or so belly clearance over you. And awesome road manners from the highsteer.

I know you like the lcg build but on a JKU most guys I know who wheel are running 3-4" actual lift cause of the belly dragging, and taking the whole picture a little extra lift and bumpstop might make sense. Just wanted to give you some things to think about, might make life easier, lol

Also with my flat fenders I've had rubbing on the front fender brace when I tried 2.75" front bumpstops. With 3" bumpstops I haven't had rubbing any more. This was with 37 x 13.5" Toyos on 4.25" backspaced wheels. For some reason I really don't think I could run less than 3" front bumpstops even if I wanted to. There are pics of my set up in my profile on here.

gnarly_mike

Don't tempt me. Haha. I've had lots of wandering thoughts about going to 3.5", however if I did, and flipped the drag link, I would end up notching the frame to avoid using extra bumpstop, and that would bring me back to my current issue.

gnarly_mike

You guys think I should put the Fox's back on and suck it up? I have a light jeep. I still have stock coils just with .75" spacer in the rear and it sits perfect for my RK triple rate 2.5" front end, in my opinion. I hate rakes and rarely have my jeep loaded in the back enough to sag it much, so I try to have the back just about 1" lower than the front so the jeep sits level 95% of the time.

I will probably end up getting 2.5" rear coils and using the 2-4" Fox monotubes. This will probably give me like 3-3.5" of lift in the back then I'll need to use either 3.5" front springs or about a 1" coil spacer up front to put it back where I need. I'll honestly probably end up at like 3.5" and with a flipped drag link. I guess I should just quit being a bitch and put the shocks back on and do what I just described. And live with the fender gap for now. Maybe I'll find a way to change it later to where I can have the full 8" or so of tire uptravel and also have good droop

gnarly_mike

Also, I just spoke to a guy at Fox, asked about safe compression of the shock and how much is too much. He told me they can safely be fully collapsed and that the rubber bumper is there to protect the metal rod end from hitting the bottom of the body.

I found this interesting as people all over Jeep forums like to act like you will cause internal damage to shocks if you fully collapse them. I always thought that sounded stupid but now I have verification. I've seen guys bump their jeeps so that they have 2" of shaft showing at full bump, to not cause damage to the shock. They must have just eaten up the "facts" people spew all over the place on these forums and not known any better.

Maybe it's different for each brand of shock. Idk. I only spoke to Fox.

gnarly_mike

New development.

I'm saying f**k it and getting the remote reservoir versions. They are a 16.7" collapsed length with 11.6" travel as opposed to a 17.10" collapsed length with 11.1" travel for the monotube 2.0 IFP's.

Still wish I could move the mount up about 2 inches though