Re-gearing. I need help
I know there are probably many of threads on this topic but I'm a new jeeper as I just got my first jeep back in april. I've got a lift with some 35's on it. I'm about to get some bumpers then next I want it to be re-geared. I was a little impulsive and didn't think ahead and my '15 JK only has the 3.21 gears with D30/D44. I haven't done much research yet but I just would like to know which gear ratio would be better 4.10 or 4.56? Also what is everything that I would have to change? What's the possible price I would pay. Thanks
I know there are probably many of threads on this topic but I'm a new jeeper as I just got my first jeep back in april. I've got a lift with some 35's on it. I'm about to get some bumpers then next I want it to be re-geared. I was a little impulsive and didn't think ahead and my '15 JK only has the 3.21 gears with D30/D44. I haven't done much research yet but I just would like to know which gear ratio would be better 4.10 or 4.56? Also what is everything that I would have to change? What's the possible price I would pay. Thanks
It would help if you told us what type of wheeling you plan on doing, are you staying with 35's or going bigger and if this a daily driver. Is it a auto? You could get away with 4.88 but I would go as big as the D30 can handle reliably (5.13). You can google for the Jeep Gearing Chart, that would give you a better idea well.
Auto or stick? With auto, I'd recommend 4.56, with stick you could get away with 4.10 but since you're changing anyway just go 4.56. If you aren't off road much, stick with the D30 but still gusset the Cs w the 35s you have and eventually you'll need ball joints, you'll need those even on a 44. If you plan to do some off roading much past dirt roads, don't waste a penny on that 30 and move up to a 44 already geared. Then you'll just need to regear the rear.
You'll need a calibrator of some sort, guessing you may already have that since upping tire size? Price will vary drastically depending on what direction you take. Just a regear of both diffs; $900-$1500. Swap out the 30 for a 44; used? new? Dynatrac, etc. $1500-$5000?
Welcome to the Jeep wold, this is just the tip of the iceberg!
You'll need a calibrator of some sort, guessing you may already have that since upping tire size? Price will vary drastically depending on what direction you take. Just a regear of both diffs; $900-$1500. Swap out the 30 for a 44; used? new? Dynatrac, etc. $1500-$5000?
Welcome to the Jeep wold, this is just the tip of the iceberg!
It would help if you told us what type of wheeling you plan on doing, are you staying with 35's or going bigger and if this a daily driver. Is it a auto? You could get away with 4.88 but I would go as big as the D30 can handle reliably (5.13). You can google for the Jeep Gearing Chart, that would give you a better idea well.
A d30 with 3.21's will need a new open carrier ($80-$90?) when going to a higher numeric gear ratio. Any full case locker/limited will take the place of buying the new open carrier, so if you are considering adding traction to the front, might be a good time. (rear as well, since it will be torn apart and will save on the future labor charges)
Gearing both ends, out the door, can be found as low as $1000 at a few shops in the mid-west and west coast. East coast, could be as much as $3000. Shop around, and be sure to get warranty info and reviews instead of automatically choosing the least expensive.
If you decide that 4.10's would be a good ratio for you, (and especially if your local shops charge up near that 3000 range), look into a set of take-off axles from a rubicon. That will get you a front d44, upgraded shafts, and lockers at both ends. (newer rubi's have an option of 3.73 or 4.10, so be sure of the ratio before buying.)
As noted above, having c gussets welded on might be a good call. (this is for all factory front d30s and d44s, the housings have the same basic specs and weaknesses)
Gearing both ends, out the door, can be found as low as $1000 at a few shops in the mid-west and west coast. East coast, could be as much as $3000. Shop around, and be sure to get warranty info and reviews instead of automatically choosing the least expensive.
If you decide that 4.10's would be a good ratio for you, (and especially if your local shops charge up near that 3000 range), look into a set of take-off axles from a rubicon. That will get you a front d44, upgraded shafts, and lockers at both ends. (newer rubi's have an option of 3.73 or 4.10, so be sure of the ratio before buying.)
As noted above, having c gussets welded on might be a good call. (this is for all factory front d30s and d44s, the housings have the same basic specs and weaknesses)
A d30 with 3.21's will need a new open carrier ($80-$90?) when going to a higher numeric gear ratio. Any full case locker/limited will take the place of buying the new open carrier, so if you are considering adding traction to the front, might be a good time. (rear as well, since it will be torn apart and will save on the future labor charges) Gearing both ends, out the door, can be found as low as $1000 at a few shops in the mid-west and west coast. East coast, could be as much as $3000. Shop around, and be sure to get warranty info and reviews instead of automatically choosing the least expensive. If you decide that 4.10's would be a good ratio for you, (and especially if your local shops charge up near that 3000 range), look into a set of take-off axles from a rubicon. That will get you a front d44, upgraded shafts, and lockers at both ends. (newer rubi's have an option of 3.73 or 4.10, so be sure of the ratio before buying.) As noted above, having c gussets welded on might be a good call. (this is for all factory front d30s and d44s, the housings have the same basic specs and weaknesses)
The gears and the d30 carrier (the d44 carrier is fine). Low mileage axles, some people will re-use the bearings. Others prefer to replace them, especially on higher mileage axles.
For a long time, all of the gears were coming out of the same plant is asia. Didn't really matter which brand name was on the box. Now there is talk of a few other locations, but I haven't seen any definitive data saying where, or if they are better or worse. Buy based on price and warranty, or use whatever the specific shop is comfortable with since they will be handling any warranty issues.
If you plan on buying yourself and having a shop do the install, make sure to check their policies on supplied gears. Could be quite different prices/warranties than if they supply.
For a long time, all of the gears were coming out of the same plant is asia. Didn't really matter which brand name was on the box. Now there is talk of a few other locations, but I haven't seen any definitive data saying where, or if they are better or worse. Buy based on price and warranty, or use whatever the specific shop is comfortable with since they will be handling any warranty issues.
If you plan on buying yourself and having a shop do the install, make sure to check their policies on supplied gears. Could be quite different prices/warranties than if they supply.
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Before you regear, you need to be certain you'll never want lockers. So, if you don't plan to go offroad with the Jeep, go for it. If you think you will, step back and take your time. You live near some bad ass areas to offroad.
You make a really good point. I just want my jeep to be trail worthy already but I know it's a process. A time and money consuming process. I guess I'm just gonna go with my armor and save up again to re-gear



