rear control arms?
i get the whole front lower control arm thing, but what do i need to know about the rear? what's the proper rear caster setting?
do i need upper or lower first?
thanks
steve
do i need upper or lower first?
thanks
steve
Nothing overly scientific about it, actually.
You'll want uppers on the rear, you'll adjust them to a length shorter than that of the factory pieces, and you make said adjustment(s) until your pinion and drive shaft share the same angle (or close to it).
I like JKS controls arms best of all the options available. No jam nut to back off, and the fine pitch thread offers a high degree of adjustability. JKS arms are greaseable, hell for stout, and are art like in construction. Plus, they're a small town shop in Nebraska; I like supporting the industry under dawgs (ahem).
Note: It might be a good time to invest in a good aftermarket adjustable track bar too (again, I'd recommend JKS). That eliminates a frame mounted drop-down bracket if you're running one, and prevents track bar/passenger side bump stop interference (as you rotate the diff, you make it more likely a stock TB will touch the BS and you put an unnatural bind on the TB itself).
You'll want uppers on the rear, you'll adjust them to a length shorter than that of the factory pieces, and you make said adjustment(s) until your pinion and drive shaft share the same angle (or close to it).
I like JKS controls arms best of all the options available. No jam nut to back off, and the fine pitch thread offers a high degree of adjustability. JKS arms are greaseable, hell for stout, and are art like in construction. Plus, they're a small town shop in Nebraska; I like supporting the industry under dawgs (ahem).
Note: It might be a good time to invest in a good aftermarket adjustable track bar too (again, I'd recommend JKS). That eliminates a frame mounted drop-down bracket if you're running one, and prevents track bar/passenger side bump stop interference (as you rotate the diff, you make it more likely a stock TB will touch the BS and you put an unnatural bind on the TB itself).
Last edited by opdsgt; Aug 27, 2010 at 11:34 AM.
i'm running a 2.5 TF BB with stock springs and OME shocks. if i upgrade springs to the OME kit, will i need to work on my real control arms?
so if i'm understadning this correct, i get new read uppers to shorten(??)) the length and align the pinion?
so if i'm understadning this correct, i get new read uppers to shorten(??)) the length and align the pinion?
If you're still running that 2.5" BB in your profile, you're okay without doing anything to the rear. If I were in your shoes, I'd be looking at a better lift before other suspension mods (perhaps a 2.5" coil). Then I'd install front and rear track bars. If you don't wheel and if you're okay with where your tires are tracking, then spend your money on something else.
(Edit: If you're running a rear track bar bracket to get your tires tracking, do as Under Dawg suggested and get an adjustable rear track bar.)
(Edit: If you're running a rear track bar bracket to get your tires tracking, do as Under Dawg suggested and get an adjustable rear track bar.)
Last edited by Mark Doiron; Aug 27, 2010 at 01:14 PM.
Northridge installed my OME HD LT kit, and I just added TF adjustable front lowers....and it rides GREAT!
Add the #1654840 TeraFlex rear uppers and those will allow you to adjust your rear pinion.






